There isn't a good way to just "partially" level it if you are talking about an overlay.

Not sure that anything is going to stick to painted concrete that well either.

You are talking about a larger project than you think if you ask me.

 

...
I'd like to cover over the drain and level the floor so I can put down either carpet or laminate.....

I would be curious if that floor drain might have been put in place not just for over-flow protection from the washing machine, but also as part of drain system in the event that the basement ever flooded? Regardless, I would be reluctant to concrete over/into that drain without a lot more information about the building.

This is a pretty small space to work with; I can envision a couple of options, but I think the easiest way to approach this would be to incorporate a single "step-up" into the room. Lay a vapor barrier of plastic sheeting down, and create a perimeter of 2 x 6 lumber around the intended floor space of the 6' x 7' area. You can simply use L-shaped brackets to secure the 2 x 6 lumber to itself at each corner. You probably will not need to attach the 2 x 6s to the wall of the space. Make sure the thing sits level all around (the vapor barrier may be un-necessary, but it is just there to prevent the lumber from absorbing moisture from the existing concrete floor). Next, use joist hangers to run 2 x 4 supports between opposite perimeter 2 x 6s -- you are simply building a floor support (albeit a really small one). The 2 x 4s are installed level with the top of the perimeter 2 x 6s. Since the space is so small, I would probably put a joist every 12" or so. The 2x4s will float above the drain and any other irregularities in the concrete of the floor.

Cover the whole thing with 3/4" plywood, using a generous amount of deck screws. Put some laminate floor on top of it (you can also use a piece of the laminate to cover the face of the side of the 2 x 6 where the step-up is visible). When you are done, the step height will be in the 6.5-7" neighborhood -- which is about right for a step riser, your material costs will not be that bad, there is no danger of leveling concrete lifting up, and the entire thing would be reversible if you later change your mind about it.

That is probably what I would do.

 

Interesting idea, Paul. Unfortunately, there's no way I can lose that much height in the room. I'm already building a large soffit across half the space to cover pipes and losing 6". I'm 6'3", so...

I did see some stuff online about framing a sleeper floor using shims that used just 2x4's and OSB. Very similar to your idea, except it's ramset into the floor through the 2x4's and shims. That way I'd only lose about 2" or so.

Or I may just carpet it with berber and say the hell with it.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Marty

 

Given that the drain is in the laundry room, doubtless that is is there for potential overflow situations. I am clearly not a professional, but if it were me I'd just hit with at is there with an angle grinder to get rid of some paint, plug up the drain with fiberglass insulation or the like, hit the floor with a concrete bonding agent and mix and portable some ready mix in the thing. Done and done. Ron

 

If you don't ever need that drain again, cover it up and then level the room with leveling compound. It's pretty easy...just make an edge around the room so it can't pour out all over the rest of the house, then mix up a batch of leveling compound and pour it in. Once it sets, you'll have a level floor without raising it up much at all.

 

You don't need a drain ... until you need a drain.

 

One thing about drains is that if they are never used, the trap can dry out and let the smell of sewer in.

 

Exactly.

Also, if you cover it, it should be capped off with proper fittings. The day a backup occurs, there will be sewage under the floor where you can't get at it or maybe not even see it if it's a small amount.

 

All valid points, guys. And the self-leveling compound won't work anyway, the grade is too steep. As much as an inch in some places.

I've decided to just get a carpet remnant cut the size of the room (remember, this is a SMALL room, only 6'x7 1/2'). I moved my desk to a different wall where the slope isn't too bad.

As far as the drain, in the four years I've been here, we've never used it. Just referring to sewer gas. If something goes boom, I can just lift the carpet remnant and the drain can do it's thing...while I stand on my desk.

Thanks again, guys. You're all awesome!

Marty

 

...the self-leveling compound won't work anyway, the grade is too steep. As much as an inch in some places.

That's exactly what the self leveling compound is made for. Read the directions and it will tell you how deep you can lay it. If the limit is less than your depth, then you just do it in stages, filling in the really deep parts first and then coming back for another pour to reach the final level.
Without leveling you're going to be rolling towards that drain.
If you don't want to use the leveling compound, you can still get level on the cheap for that space with some 3/4 plywood (or OSB) and some shims. Lay down a sheet of thicker plastic, then use various thicknesses of shims which can be cut down from just about anything really, then drop the OSB/plywood on top, then drop a carpet on it. You'll only be 3/4" taller from your high spot (which is hopefully close to the door so you don't have a big trip point).

 

Huh. Never thought to just use shims and OSB. I saw those sleeper floors online that used shims, 2x4s and OSB. I could live with just 3/4s of an inch. Have to think about this again.

 

Okay, I thunked. Decided to do the self leveling approach. Found some stuff at Home Depot that will cover up to 1 1/2 inches. Wish me luck!