http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...{keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202548622&ci_gpa=pla#.UFOky64mXEg

 

Neat product, but from looking at the manufacturer site, it doesn't appear it will give me what I want.

Correct me if I am wrong, but installing this still needs an input and that is from a standard wall outlet. I don't want to have a power cord come out of the wall and go in to another port. I understand that if you have some furniture in front of it, it would work out great. You can have all your components there, even including a UPS or surge protector, then have that plug IN to the PowerBridge, run that up the inside, then have their recessed female receptacle. I however do not have any peripherals and so it would look ugly (IMHO).

The only item I have to add to this TV is a AT&T U-Verse receiver, which is small and I will secure it to the TV somehow, OR possible even in the room on the other side and use an IR repeater.

 

Old work box or Smart box, and a length of Romex to feed from the old box, to the new box you wish to locate on that wall.

 

I see the old box your looking to tap off of already has 2 sets of wire.
May have an issue fitting another set in that box to fed the outlet above.

 

Right. I see that likely being a problem. Couldn't I though take both sets out of the outlet and then utilize a twist cap and add more wire so that I can add the other outlet above?

 

if you are mounting a TV and want the power higher up, mount a recessed box. it allows you to push the TV farther back against the wall.

I think this is the one i have for our upstairs TV. (also applies some protection for the TV)

http://www.amazon.com/Panamax-MIW-POWER-PRO-PFP-Power-Outlet-Faceplate/dp/B00180GWIU

 

there are these also.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...w&tag=shopzilla_mp_1174-20&creative=395165&creativeASIN=B005D7GZXG&linkCode=asm

 

Are you sure you want to run the cable directly to your TV? You don't want to run it to a digital converter box first and then run an HDMI or other cable from the digital box to the TV?

 

Yes, I thought the AT&T receiver was small, but I checked it today and its quite large. My office is on the other side of that wall so I think I will simply run the cable on the back side in to my office, mount the receiver under my desk with my peripherals, and then buy a 10' HDMI cable from monoprice and then bring that through the wall up to where the new power outlet would be, and have HDMI come out there to the TV.

 

Right. I see that likely being a problem. Couldn't I though take both sets out of the outlet and then utilize a twist cap and add more wire so that I can add the other outlet above?

What you could do is leave one set on the screws,
Back stab the other set and add the new set to the other 2 screws.
That leaves the current outlet available and gives you power to your new one.
As for the grounds,twist all 3 together with one longer then the others and attach the long one to the screw on the the receptacle.

 

No no no, please stop giving electrical advice.

AMG, in this situation you would pigtail them as you said, but what the issue may be is box fill. Too many wires in the box, you are only allowed so many, depending on the box size.

 

No no no, please stop giving electrical advice.

AMG, in this situation you would pigtail them as you said, but what the issue may be is box fill. Too many wires in the box, you are only allowed so many, depending on the box size.

There is no way he can twist 3 sets of wire AND pigtail it to the outlet AND have it all fit in that box. Thus my suggestion to back stab due to limited space.
Maybe YOU should be the one not giving electrical advise /opinion as your latest is in correct.

 

He may be able to, it appears to be a 1096N, they have 18cu in. Should be stamped inside on the back of the box, I believe:whistling2:
Assuming it is 14AWG!

 

Funny, all I see here is where it says "Side Wire & Push Wire".
NO WHERE does it prohibit the use of both.
I am not condoning it, but it definitely code complaint.




Sorry, I have a bad habit of feeding the trolls.

 

Let's play nice kids....

DM

 

I am a DIY'er for sure. I don't have much electrical experience, but done drywall, plumbing, etc. lots of automotive and motorcycle work, so I have a bit of a background fixing and making things work

Below is a picture of one of my bedrooms. Near the baseboard you'll see there is a cable outlet and a power outlet, both of which I am concerned with. I want to wall mount a LCD TV and have it be as clean as possible.

I figure the cable TV is low voltage and no big deal. I was in the attic running the CAT-5e for my house and saw where that went down. I figured I could cover that with a blank plate and simply install a low-voltage gang plate up higher where the TV goes and then install the cable outlet behind the TV.

I figured adding a second power outlet up higher would be more logical than simply trying to re-locate the current power outlet. That outlet could come in handy for a vacuum or something else, so why get rid of it.


Here is what I thought:
1. flip the breaker (be safe)
2. remove each of the wires from the electrical outlet.
3. using caps put the original wire along with 2 sets of wire in a cap and twist together tight.
4. re-install one set of wires in to the existing outlet
5. install the other set of wires higher up where the new outlet would be.

for the new outlet I would buy the same outlet (probably replace the original because looking at it, I see cracking of the plastic part and it visually looks beat) along with a higher voltage gang box. Secure gang box in, snake wire down to original outlet and then proceed with the steps above.

I am no electrician (obviously) and I know some things must be done "to code", but is this something that really requires I pay someone?

what tips can you give me if I am off on any of this?
Thank you!

You have two 14/2 cables existing in the grey plastic box already plus one device. You want to add one more 14/2 cable. Lets do the math;

3 14/2 =

3 blacks
3 whites
1 ground
total = 7 conductors plus 2 conductors for the device = 9

9 conductors total

9 x 2.00 cu.in. = 18 cu. in.

A small plastic nail on is 18 cu. in and rated for 9 #14's

If the box is the large plastic nail on then it is around 20.5 cu. in.

Either way you can add the third 14/2 cable, pigtail the splices and come off with one wire to each device terminal. I would also recommend using a green wirenut to reduce the number of egc's in the wirenut by one and make the ground splice easier to make.

Also, looking at the back of your device, you can backstab the additional black and white without pigtailing anything. Then redo the egc splice using a green wirenut and your done.

Problem solved!!:thumbup:

 

I was going to let a certain someone bury himself before doing the calculation:whistling2:

 

I was going to let a certain someone bury himself before doing the calculation:whistling2:

Oops! Sorry bout that. Anyway inevitably he'll do it sooner or later.

 

All good, I shouldn't provoke like that anyway:no:

Wonder if he is doing a Google search to see what a T5320 is:whistling2:

There I go again ... somebody stop me:wallbash:

 

Or what box fill is.

 

I do believe the UL talks about not using the screws and the back wired clamps at the same time. I do not know of any prohibition against the screws and the back stabs.