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Yellow Mold - How to remove? Is this White Mold?

15K views 65 replies 14 participants last post by  emmyshaw  
#1 ·
I haven't been using the AC much this summer and don't have a dehumidifier in the basement. The basement humidity is over 60% at times, it's also unfinished. I noticed a couple spots (that look like mold) today when going into the basement. The weird thing is I only noticed the mold on some particle board shelves and a leather belt.

Should I just clean this up (with mold remover), how bad does it look?

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You can see the yellow mold. Looks like a greyish mold too.
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It's appears to be the worst on the lowest shelf.
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Looks like it's covering my leather workout belt
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This is probably the heaviest build up.
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Can I just clean this with mold remover and be done?
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Do I have to throw everything away or can I just clean the mold off?
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I noticed the stairs had a wooden board that has white stuff on it, any ideas?
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White Mold or Efforvescence (which I've had)?
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I don't see the yellow mold anywhere else but on those particle board shelves. Should I just clean the area up really good with a mold remover? Or does this look like I should have it professionally reviewed?

What does that white powder look like? I had salt deposits around the walls when I bought the house and I since swept those up, maybe that's what it is?

I'm also not sure if that shelving unit has to be thrown away or if I can clean the boards really good?

Any help is appreciated.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Mold doesn't normally form at 60 percent humidity. After working out, remove the belt and any moisture laden towels and or clothing from the area and hang outdoors to dry.
I put a hygrometer at the bottom of the steps in the basement and it was at 64% RH this morning. I'm sure it got a lot higher during the summer.

I don't use the belt, I've just been storing it down there. The weird part is only the belt and particle board seem affected, as well as the wood on the staircase on that 2x4.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
How best should I go about cleaning the basement? I was going to buy some Concrobium (mold remover) and clean the shelving unit and then use a killz type paint on the particle board shelves and put them back together.

When I clean the basement, do I have to clean everything (floors, walls, all the wood beams, etc) or should I just focus on the parts where I see the mold (particle board, shelving unit, beam, etc)?

I guess I'm not 100% sure how much cleaning I need to do.

Does anyone know what the white stuff looks like? is that white mold?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Get rid of the belt and particle boards, as these items are more prone to the growth. Wear a mask when you handle these items and when you clean. Just remove and clean the boards.

This is pretty common in unfinished basements it's from the dampness and no air circulation. After you clean run a dehumidifier for a while and set up a couple fans on low to keep the air moving.
So you don't think I need to mop the floors and clean the walls and ceilings with mold remover?

What did you mean by "Just remove and clean the boards.", which boards were you talking about cleaning?

I appreciate all the help guys. I just want to make sure I clean everything to prevent it from coming back. I assume I should throw away all the cardboard too (even though I don't see mold on it)?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
It's apparent you are worried and have not done this before, It's okay.......
Remove and replace the molded items with new, Use your mold remover on the concrete walls and floor. Be sure to use a shop vac to suck up all the mess.
Use the dehumidifier and fans as suggested, then just keep an eye on everything.
This will ease your mind.
Thanks Ron. I'm definitely concerned because I want to stop whatever is causing it now to prevent future issues. One thing I wasn't sure about was that white powder on the 2x4 (on the stairs).. would you suggest that wood be replaced to?

Or just clean that white stuff up that's on the wood without replacing the piece?

I know this might sound stupid but I was wondering if I needed to clean the shop vac in and out after using it (to clean mold)?
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
It would be as easy if not easier to just replace the 2x4.
Rinsing the shop vac is a good idea.
You must do what will make you comfortable with the situation.
I just noticed the wood at the top-right of this picture also has white powder (mold looking stuff) on it. This piece of wood would be harder to remove, safe to clean this piece? Or should I be removing all pieces of wood w it on?

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Discussion starter · #19 ·
Personally I would bring in a mold abatement company. If the spores have taken over that much in the basement. Who knows what is laying in the duct work or furnace.

Basically everything is going to have to come out of the basement. That means tossing anything that cannot be cleaned properly and let to dry out in the Sun.

Your Home Owner's Insurance may cover some of the costs on having a company come in and fix the problem. You also need to get the hvac to place conditioned and heated air down there, along with return vents.

You definitely have a big project on your hands.
The only place I see them (visibly) is on the particle board, leather belt, that 2x4, and the piece of wood above it. It doesn't seem to have spread too bad, I'm hoping I don't have to hire someone.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
As much doubt as you have Why not have it tested? If I understand right there are like 1200 varieties of mold and most are non toxic.
Originally I thought I would just clean it up (and not test it) since I know it's mold but now I'm starting to think it's important for me to find out what types of molds I have.

Just in case they are toxic.

I was more concerned with it eating away at the wood in the house.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
I inspected the ceiling of the basement today and noticed I have some of the white mold on the framing floor joists. It seems minimal, and I'm hoping this wood can simply be cleaned and not replaced.

Let me know what you think.

I bought this house only 9 months ago and wonder if these are just from me not running the AC and a dehumidifier?

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Discussion starter · #27 ·
I'm in the NW suburbs of Illinois. I live on a small lake and the foundation had a couple cracks that were professionally sealed when I bought it. I also found radon when I bought it so they sealed the basement up with radon caulk and then put a fan/mitigation system in.

I haven't been running a dehumidifier and it's at 65% RH right now.

Now I'm worried..
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Maintenance, that is not a minor problem. It is a major issue. Quit acting like the OP situation can just be cleaned up with some Mold/Mildew spray and rags.
I had a mold remediation expert come out to my house last Friday and he said my issue is a 1 out of 10. Where are you getting all your info from? This is about as minor as it gets when it comes to remediation.. no wood needs to be replaced.

I will write up a DIY so you can see the steps involved.
 
Discussion starter · #41 ·
I appreciate all the replies, you guys rock. I had a very qualified mold remediation expert come out last Friday and he basically told me exactly how to DIY. He said for them to do this would be about $5,000+ but I could DIY for less than half that.

DIY MOLD REMEDIATION:

1) Get 4mill plastic and seal off the door going upstairs. Open the windows and have fans blowing out. Remove all the "throw-away" items and bag up the insulation.

2) Rent a HEPA wet/dry shop vac and vacuum EVERY part of the basement, especially the mold.
http://www.rentalmax.com/equipment-detail.html?id=808
$67 / DAY + $12 HEPA Bag + $212 HEPA filter = $291

3) Buy ~ 4 gallons of Micro-Ban and spray the entire basement, especially the wood. Use nylon brushes to brush everything as it's wet (brushing after you spray).
http://www.jondon.com/chemicals/microban.html
$155 on amazon

4) Paint ALL the wood with Foster 40-25 Full Defense. This actually kills mold and also prevents it. I need a little over 1,000 square feet of this.
http://www.jondon.com/foster-full-defense-40-25-fungicidal-protective-coating.html
$255 x 4 = $1,020

5) Get the house ducts cleaned. ~$250-300 (they use Micro-Ban)

6) Rent and run an ozone cleaner for 24-48 hours (leave house and remove pets). This kills any existing germs and purifies the entire house.
http://www.rentalmax.com/equipment-detail.html?id=844
$67 / DAY

There you have it folks. As you can see the materials are expensive, especially the encapsulating paint but this not only removes the mold, it actively fights it, and also prevents it from coming back on anything I paint.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Things you can do for (relatively) healthy living:

5. as long as you are healthy, do the work yourself. Organic vapor mask, 1 micron shop vac filter, garden sprayer, window fan (2-3 on all basement windows with make up air). You don't have to nuke the basement and the lumber. Just stop the growth and maintain the humidity so mold can't keep growing.
The mold guy that came out recommended I used a garden sprayer to spray the MicroBan. What's a garden sprayer though? Is this a special spraying device that's different than a regular garden hose?

Just trying to see what this is because i bought a plastic sprayer but mayeb this garden hose is better.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Question: What size dehumidifier should I get?

I'm looking at Frigidaire dehumidifiers at 50pint or 70pint and not sure if I should get the 70pint or not.

My basement is a little over 1,000 square feet and it's a 2 story house with a total square footage around 3,000. The basement is at 65% RH.