Keep it all together. Makes it easier for us to follow. Canless wafer lights vs can lights (tongue and groove...

 

Keep it all together. Makes it easier for us to follow. Canless wafer lights vs can lights (tongue and groove...

Yeah I don't disagree. I was considering this as one topic—but decided to differentiate a discussion about lighting tech and the ceiling itself. I should have just provided more context about the ceiling (state, materials, etc.) in my first post about the lighting.

 

Insulating the pipes is cheap and adds a little energy efficiency.

Adding insulation in the ceiling doesn't do anything for energy efficiency but if it's heavy material, like Ultra Touch (blue jean material) you will get a nice noise reduction but it's a little pricey! I did that in the basement when the kids had parties/game nights and it really helped!

 

Yes, you should insulate and seal the outside. rim joist just like a basement
It is the cold water pipe that can cause condensation and mold, if you are insulating pipes, the cold is more important.
The metal straps between the joists is a poor excuse for bridging bridging, any that are not tight or missing, add a 2x4 tight block flush with the bottom.

 

Yes, you should insulate and seal the outside. rim joist just like a basement
It is the cold water pipe that can cause condensation and mold, if you are insulating pipes, the cold is more important.
The metal straps between the joists is a poor excuse for bridging bridging, any that are not tight or missing, add a 2x4 tight block flush with the bottom.

Several of the metal straps are loose. I was wondering how to best handle those. Would the tongue and grove give it enough stability? Or would you still replace any missing/loose ones with 2x4 blocking?

 

Oh I totally agree. I'm not opposed at all to doing the work if it needs to get done!

If I do a few, I might just replace all of them since so many are loose to varying degrees. The metal straps also wrap around the bottom of the joist, so I was already slightly concerned about that interfering with the flushness of the tongue and groove. I think that would be minimal since the boards are pine and I think squishy enough to still lay flat.

 

Oh I totally agree. I'm not opposed at all to doing the work if it needs to get done!

If I do a few, I might just replace all of them since so many are loose to varying degrees. The metal straps also wrap around the bottom of the joist, so I was already slightly concerned about that interfering with the flushness of the tongue and groove. I think that would be minimal since the boards are pine and I think squishy enough to still lay flat.

I would not expect dry lumber to squish much,

 

Where the perimeter band joist separates warm space (inside ceiling) from the cold outside you need to air seal and insulate just like it was a basement rim joist. I would even recommend you fill those cavities (maybe Roxul) full for the first couple of feet.

T & G Pine looks great but does not air seal well. Being between first and second floor with conditioned space above is better than a cold attic, but an air barrier would still be recommended IMO.

Bud

 

It looks to me the T&G leaking a small amount of air would be a good thing to assist in warming the upper level and especially the floor . I suppose the flooring for the second floor would play a part in that too .

 

I insulated my entire first floor ceiling. We like to keep upstairs bedrooms cooler and noise transmission is diminished. I figured insulation was cheap and I have one opportunity. All our inside walls are insulated, too. If there is a space, it is filled with insulation. Wallboard over framing has little noise reduction. Our house is very quiet.

 

As previously stated, I am not a fan of that metal bridging, while it's open add real blocking.
Metal stuff can stay in place, just ignore it.

 

You use 2x4 to make cross bridging? Or are you talking about a straight across piece?

 

If we are short of bridging or some plumber knocks them out, we put a level 2x4 at the bottom same as we do for decks

 

Look at the open ceiling, like in your photo and try and anticipate future needs.

Add cables / wires for television and internet access.
Add speaker cables / wires for a whole home audio system.
Add cable / wires for camera system.
Add cable / wires for any electrical updates.
Evaluate your heating system and see if additional ductwork or moving ducts needs to be done.

 

^^THIS^^
Mainly a 13.2.4 channel surround sound with overhead Atmos...

 

Are any of your supply lines galvanized or any parts of your drain cast iron?

 

I'd be looking to run network cable for an access point at the minimum also. These are PoE (power over ethernet) so you only need to have the network cable to the location, no AC plug required where it hangs.

 

If there are any bathrooms upstairs that you are even considering remodeling in the next 10 years, you will need access for the tub or shower drain from below now may be the time to do that before you have to tear half of your tongue and groove ceiling back out later