Pull the all the nails, use decking screws.

 

You could use Reisser cutters, probably 2"/50mm depending on how thick the boards are.

 

I’m planning on placing replacement screws in same holes as removed nails when spacing makes sense. Any reasons not to do this?

 

As long as the minor diameter of the screw is the same size or bigger than the old nails I don't see a problem.

 

Any suggestions to which brand or size of cats paw to yank out current nails? I saw Eastwing and a Husky at Home Depo. Husky suggested a side to side rocking motion to get out nails that looked interesting. The Eastwing is more traditionally used to pry out. It is a 16 x 14 room so a fair number to yank Out.
eastwing
Husky

 

I have this one, It's pulled many a nail out of flooring.

Estwing 17 in. Pro-Claw Contractor Bar RSC - The Home Depot

Estwing - Pro Claw Contractor Bar - Made from drop forged steel and polished to perfection, this thin-bladed, round-head nail puller is great for getting under shingles, siding, and framing.

www.homedepot.com

 

Thanks for the help all!

 

Don't use deck screws, they are not structural. Use Simpson Strong-Drive® WSV Subfloor screws. More data HERE

We installed a few thousand of these using a Makita corded drill... these screws are great.

"... testing indicates that the WSV Subfloor screws have lateral, shear and withdrawal values that exceed those of 10d common nails, and diaphragms built with WSV Subfloor screws meet or exceed the strength and stiffness of wood frame diaphragms built with 10d nails."​

 

Deck screws are fine….because there is no lateral force. Save your $$. I would likely put in a 2 1/2” ring nail alongside the other nails. If any of orig pop above ply, pull out. Done. that said if you MUST pull, the one shown prior is crap. sorry, bold by mistake. most alll mfgrs. Make one with narrow claws at each end. Better choice, less damage.

 

Deck screws are fine….because there is no lateral force. Save your $$

Show us in the code where it states you can use "deck screws" for subflooring. You won't find it, and there is a reason for that.

Want to save money.. use ring shank nails.

Plus, depending on which "deck screws" you use they have a large shank, and small thread height. That will split the subfloor at every butt joint. Now what have you gained?

Might as well do it right, using screws specifically designed for the application.

 

Thanks Henry, your info is v helpful.

 

Well, I can't find any screws at either big box store specific for subfloors except for some collated and I'm not buying attachments (yet).

I did see these at Lowes; I figured 2.5" was as long as I needed for 5/8" ply. Perhaps I can go shorter?
Any of these preferred?

Thanks!

 

How thick is the total subfloor thickness? I'm betting it's more than 5/8".

Ours had 3/4" thick plywood & 1/2" plywood. So that's 1-1/4" thick. I'd use 2-1/2" where your screwing through the plywood down into floor joists, and 2" where your just screwing the 2 plywood sheets together (not screwing down into the floor joists).

As far as spacing, I used the "nailing" configuration shown in the bottom right of the detail below.

 

Hesitate to get into this thread again…but if you take a look at the boxes you posted the geek screws specify that they are approved for STRUCTURAL purposes. The prime guard are for non-structural. In your case, the application is non-structural So any of them would work. 2” would be fine. Just a matter of cost. You don’t NEED the GRK, but they would be fine.

 

Subfloor is 5/8” plywood nailed with spiral nails into 2 x 10s.

 

Yikes.

2" screws should be fine then.

 

Spiral nails? Oh gad, pulling them won't be easy.
Try a couple, If easy enough proceed.
If they are the nightmare I have had the displeasure to come across, I would put screws next to them to secure the floor and then hammer the spiral nails back down and use a nail set to drive them deeper.

 

Steve and Henry, thanks.
Pulling the few were a pita as you said. A lot of squeaks in this floor and other rooms. The spiral nails seem to be working themselves loose, many are proud of the surface.
What are your thoughts on them working loose again if I set them? They’d easily telegraph through vinyl planking.

 

Steve and Henry, thanks.
Pulling the few were a pita as you said. A lot of squeaks in this floor and other rooms. The spiral nails seem to be working themselves loose, many are proud of the surface.
What are your thoughts on them working loose again if I set them? They’d easily telegraph through vinyl planking.

The reason the floor squeaks is due to the plywood sliding up and down the loose nails, if you screw down the floor tight next to the nails it won't squeak anymore. I'm thinking the nails won't work themselves loose either as there is no force pulling them up.
The "wood" has dried out completely by now, so there won't be any more shrinkage to give any play between the wood and nails that makes them pull up while walking on them.
If you nail set them deeper into the plywood I don't think they will be a problem.
I would stay about an inch away from each nail with the screws.

I never tried this btw, I only encountered twisted nails once, I had put down decking with them about 4 decades ago and later on had to remove a board that went bad. 5 min job I told the wife, I had to destroy the board to get them out.

 

I would use the GRK R4s for their self-countersinking feature.

 

Thanks HenryMac for your comments and best wishes.

 

How have we made it this far without all these fancy screws, I'm surprise that there is still houses standing.
Kidding guys, I also have interest in this thread cause I have upstairs flooring that squeaks in some area's. Sorry I just use plain ole decking screws cause stronger as of holding down and not snapping off. So far so good and still no squeaks, dang smooth shank nails