Typically done the same way for vanity lights to allow for different mirror sizes.

 

Thanks Jim. Do you know what the zig zagging method is? And is it preferable to the loops I created?

 

I just do loops. Simpler than staples on both sides of the studs.

 

How do you handle if the cavity is going to be insulated?

 

Place the insulation behind the loop.

 

I have done what Mr. Port suggested many times. It works.

 

See also this discussion and this discussion ...

 

Since I do not know where the fixture is going to be exactly, do I still have to terminate the end of the run in a box temporarily for inspection or can I just cap off the ends without terminating it in a box? I will have to remove the temporary boxes to install drywall.

 

Just an update on what I did. I ended up looping wire and loosely stapling them. I kept the loops in place in front of the Rockwool insulation with insulation supports. I also terminated all ends in boxes for the inspection. After the inspection, I removed the temporary boxes and terminated wires with white nuts in preparation for drywalling. After the drywall was finished, I cut holes for the 4" LED recessed lights and pulled the loops through. I think zig zagging the cable would have worked better and been easier to pull because of the insulation and small holes.

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Zig zagging is how alarm and speaker people do it with their wire. This situation is why I still prefer actual can lights. All wiring is properly installed before sheetrock. The way I see it is that remodel devices AKA pancake style recess lights should be only used in existing situations , not new construction. One time I used a remodel switch box on a new construction job and the inspector said not to slap up a piece of sheetrock and call it existing.