We prefer cap nails to be perfectly honest but if you are stapling it up, anything that will hold it temporarily until the exterior cladding is done will work.

Just make sure the staple or nail is long enough to penetrate into the sheathing and hold the wrap.

 

Not a critical decision. I use the same hammer tacker that I use for roofing paper. I think there's only one size of those. I'd use the cap nails if the wrap was going to be uncovered for more than a couple of days (not a good idea in any case since sunlight degrades it).

 

3/8 t50's are the standard . though some regions now require cap nails or cap staples by code

 

Cap staples are now standard in most places. really helps when you leave the job site and come back after it was windy and not see your work hanging in the trees.

 

Ultimately, what you can or can't use is up to the manufacturer. Code books do not mandate how to fasten housewrap. Even if they did/do, manufacturer instructions always trump code. The code books say so themselves. Basically, it comes down to liability. Once a company tells you how to install its product, the company is responsible for any problems that may arise from following those instructions. No building dept is going to second guess those instructions.

If you were using Tyvec, you can use 1" crown staples for permanent installation. That sized staple typically requires a pneumatic stapler. For temporary installation, you can use slap staples (that kind you probably had in mind) but no specific size is specified. In the latter case, you must immediately follow up the tyvec installation with siding installation. http://www.dupont.com/content/dam/a...s-and-services/construction-materials/assets/K16282-Residential-WRB 2-23-12.pdf

Check the manufacturer of whatever wrap you're using for guidance.

 

What type of siding?

Gary

 

Replacing sliding patio door. I watched an Andersen patio door install and they used Tyvek housewrap. They put a Tyvek membrane under the bottom jamb to keep water out. Also replaced sill plate and rim joist. I will try to put as much housewrap on exposed areas as possible. When finished will cover everything with stucco netting paper/mesh right after applying housewrap and then stucco finish it. Old stucco below metal weepscreed in picture has been taken off. Housewrap was mainly purchased for rough opening on patio door.

Problem started with previous owner putting in a concrete patio without grading the elevation. Moisture over the years rotted out sill plate and rim joist. I am taking the yard down about 12 inches consisting of part concrete and part dirt. At one end its 12 inches to high and as I move towards other end it reduces down to zero over a span of about 60'. You can see its to high in the picture. The new elevation is on the right and the original slab on the left. I am replacing that patio door as soon as new one I ordered arrives. I have removed stucco around the patio door and some more stucco is going to be taken off so I will fill in where I can.

 

You may already know this, but the soil needs to slope away from the foundation. IRC requires the soil drop off at least 6" over 10 feet. I can't tell from the pictures if you have such a slope, or how representative those pictures are of final plan. Just figured I'd mention it.

 

Where is your building paper (WRB) on that wall, other than new at the corner? No wonder your sill rotted out. It appears you added two layers, to get an air space when one layer dries on the stucco-a good thing. Add some felt paper over the house wrap or the stucco will stick to it giving you even more problems. Water will stay in the stucco without an air space (house wrap only) and lose it's water repellent quality due to stucco additives; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-029-stucco-woes-the-perfect-storm

CA early code requirement, pp. 21-25 very good; http://www.energy.ca.gov/2007public...s/CEC-500-2007-036/attachments/Attachment_14_Impact_of_Title_24_Residential.pdf

Gary
PS. "5. Wood siding, sheathing and wall framing on the exterior of a building having a clearance of less than 6 inches (152 mm) from the ground or less than 2 inches (51 mm) measured vertically from concrete steps, porch slabs, patio slabs, and similar horizontal surfaces exposed to the weather." from; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec017.htm?bu2=undefined