On one side you have a 4 gang box so you could use this outlet;

However instead of using the included 2-gang plate, replace it with a 4 which will accommodate the electrical outlet. A blanking plate will cover the remaining opening.

Blanking Plate



On the other end, you just need a single speaker connector like the one in your link.

And yes you will need to install the banana plugs on both the wires coming out of the wall, the wires coming from the speakers.

For the wires between the wall and the receiver I recommend you use banana plugs on both ends even though they can be connected to the receiver without them.

You did not indicate if the ceiling speakers are flush mounted, If they are, you can wire them directly negating the need for a plate.

 

Hi, thanks for the information, where is the first product link? Instead of product photo.

 

front center is subwoofer speaker

If I understand this right you are using a subwoofer in place of a center channel speaker. If this is the case it is a bad idea. A subwoofer and center channel do two different things. Watching a program or movie in with such a setup will be a terrible experience.

A subwoofer is dedicated to the reproduction of low-pitched audio frequencies otherwise known as bass. The typical frequency range for a subwoofer is about 20–200 Hz for consumer products or below 80 Hz in THX-approved systems.

The center channel speaker operates at different frequencies and his combined with other compatible speakers to maximize the surround-sound effect in a room. This is why it is advisable when setting up a home theater system to insure all the speakers are compatible.

This is the typical setup for a 7.1 surround-sound system.

 

If I understand this right you are using a subwoofer in place of a center channel speaker. If this is the case it is a bad idea. A subwoofer and center channel do two different things. Watching a program or movie in with such a setup will be a terrible experience.

A subwoofer is dedicated to the reproduction of low-pitched audio frequencies otherwise known as bass. The typical frequency range for a subwoofer is about 20–200 Hz for consumer products or below 80 Hz in THX-approved systems.

The center channel speaker operates at different frequencies and his combined with other compatible speakers to maximize the surround-sound effect in a room. This is why it is advisable when setting up a home theater system to insure all the speakers are compatible.

This is the typical setup for a 7.1 surround-sound system.

My contractor sets it up like this. Four ceiling speakers, one FL speaker, one FR speaker, one center SUB. Total 7 speakers.

 

Nice drawing. Makes sense now. You would buy a single speaker wall plate for each location marked "outlet one".

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3639

The bare speaker wires coming out of the wall would be connected to the back of each wall plate by loosening the fitting and wrapping the bare wires around each terminal, then tightening. For the FL and FR speakers you would connect banana plugs to both ends of two sets of speaker wires, plug one end into the back of the speakers, and then plug the other ends into the "outlet one" speaker wall plate.

Subwoofers tend to sound better near a wall, and can be even better if located in a corner. In your case it could go right near the shelf where the receiver will be, so a relatively short RCA cable is all that you need to connect it to the receiver. Once you get everything set up and running, if you find that your subwoofer is "boomy", try to move it slightly left or right, or closer or farther from the wall. Sometimes this will help it sound better. Sounds from a subwoofer are difficult to locate as to their source, so that means that you can put it almost anywhere.

Forgot about the wireless subwoofer question. I am confused once again cause I thought you already bought the Definitive Technology Pro-Sub. There is no need for a wireless sub as you can put the sub near the receiver so there is no long cable required. In any case, at least in my opinion, the technology for wireless speakers is not quite there yet so it's better to run wiring to each one. I'm assuming you are asking because you thought you would need a long cable for the sub.

If you have some extra money buy a matching center channel speaker.

 

Nice drawing. Makes sense now. You would buy a single speaker wall plate for each location marked "outlet one".

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3639

The bare speaker wires coming out of the wall would be connected to the back of each wall plate by loosening the fitting and wrapping the bare wires around each terminal, then tightening. For the FL and FR speakers you would connect banana plugs to both ends of two sets of speaker wires, plug one end into the back of the speakers, and then plug the other ends into the "outlet one" speaker wall plate.

Subwoofers tend to sound better near a wall, and can be even better if located in a corner. In your case it could go right near the shelf where the receiver will be, so a relatively short RCA cable is all that you need to connect it to the receiver. Once you get everything set up and running, if you find that your subwoofer is "boomy", try to move it slightly left or right, or closer or farther from the wall. Sometimes this will help it sound better. Sounds from a subwoofer are difficult to locate as to their source, so that means that you can put it almost anywhere.

Forgot about the wireless subwoofer question. I am confused once again cause I thought you already bought the Definitive Technology Pro-Sub. There is no need for a wireless sub as you can put the sub near the receiver so there is no long cable required. In any case, at least in my opinion, the technology for wireless speakers is not quite there yet so it's better to run wiring to each one. I'm assuming you are asking because you thought you would need a long cable for the sub.

Let me confirm if these attached photos are what I need to buy.

Subwoofer: Since I don't have RCA cable buried in ceiling, so I kinda prefer to return Definitive Technology Pro-Sub, and buy a wireless subwoofer, so that I can put it in the front corner (next to FL speaker). If I go with the wireless subwoofer in the above post, how can I connect the Amazon screenshot device to receiver? Here is Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQFIP9F/

Thanks very very much!

 

You can surely try the subwoofer on the shelf but my guess is that the whole thing will vibrate and distort the sound. My picture of the back of your receiver circled two subwoofer outputs, because that Denon model supports two subwoofers. A nice feature to have if you really enjoy bass. In your case you would use a single one. I think anywhere along the purple line would be good as long as the cable reached and there was a power outlet available.

As I mentioned, placement of the sub is something that you'll have to play around with. It is not that critical. Put it somewhere out of the way, close enough to your receiver, and also close enough to a power outlet so you can plug it in. It will probably sound great no matter where you put it. Keep in mind that most speakers need a break-in period. In my case, the Definitive Technology BP2002 towers I have needed around 30 hours of break-in time before they reached their full potential. During this break-in period they sounded a bit harsh. Afterwards they smoothed out nicely.

 

The two sub outputs is not solely for increasing the amount of bass. It's quite useful to have a second sub to tame the standing waves in a room that are a result of only one sub, thereby smoothing out the bass response of the entire listening space.

A trick for finding optimal sub placement is to start with your sub in the primary listening spot, ie your comfy chair at which all the other speakers are aimed. Next, with appropriate source media playing through the system, move about the room, putting your ears in speculative placements for the subwoofer. When you find a location that sounds good, you've found the new home for your sub.

Sent from my mobile look-at device

 

A sound bar is a replacement for the front three channels, so no, you would not want one of those. You'd want a single center channel speaker. If I remember correctly you have Polk front speakers? If so, get a Polk center channel too. I seem to remember possibly including a link earlier in this thread.

Here is a link for a Polk center channel. They also have cheaper ones though.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-C...0018QROM2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519153619&sr=8-6&keywords=polk+center+channel

Edit: just looked through this whole thread and can't find anything about Polk speakers so maybe that was in one of your other threads.

And lastly, unless you plan on using the two front in-ceiling speakers for Dolby Atmos, I'd return them and use the money to pay for the center channel.

 

I am thinking of going with definitive technology procenter 1000.

Trying to keep all speakers in few different brands. If I knew, I should buy whole set of 5.1 speaker system, instead of buying it separately. But it is hard to find such a set(FR, Center, FL, Sub, Rear ceiling right, rear ceiling left)

 

I have the Definitive Technology ProCenter 1000. It is an excellent speaker and blends well with my Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800's. But, if your other main speakers are Polk, then you should stick with the same brand to timber match, meaning they all have the same general sound. If not, you might end up with a pair of neutral sounding main speakers and a harsh center that doesn't match in sound quality.

Help me out here. What brand and model are your front left and right speakers?

 

FR, FL, Surwoofer are definitive technology. Thinking about to return all four ceiling speakers, and buy two definitive technology in ceiling speaker and procenter 1000

Does procenter 1000 require power outlet? Is speaker wire (connected to receiver) good enough? I have two stands for FR/FL speakers, but I don't have much room under projector screen, center speaker has to be on the floor, which is not at the same level as FR/FL speakers


FL & FR: Definitive Technology Mythos Gem Satellite Speakers

Definitive Technology ProSub 800 120v Speaker

In ceiling: Yamaha NSIC600WH 2-Way 110-Watts RMSSpeaker

 

You definitely want to keep the speakers consistent at the very least in brand. If possible get them in a set.

Years ago when I first attempted a surround-sound in my home I threw together the speakers I had on hand and it sounded terrible. Spoke with a friend a lot more knowledgeable on the subject who explained the situation. He had a set of NHT speakers he was not using and offered to let me try them out. If I liked them we would make a deal.

It is a 5.1 setup and when I got them connected and the speakers calibrated, it was night and day compared to my old setup. He offered them at a good price which I took.

I am still using them today and they still sound great.

I am not saying you have to go that high end (I could not afford brand new NHTs), but as Dave Sal pointed out Polk and Definitive Technology make excellent products, just make sure you match the speakers sound wise.

 

Thanks, I will return in ceiling speakers and buy two definitive technology in ceiling speakers. Then all speakers are in one brand

 

For your consideration:

Basic sound physics and explanation of decibel aka dB- https://waitbutwhy.com/2016/03/sound.html


http://www.mcsquared.com/nsca98.htm
Scroll down to "on axis frequency response" and and on from there

Sent from my mobile look-at device

 

It is difficult to understand those kinds of article(full of professional words), I need some plain language.

Sounds like good speakers cannot substitute subwoofer either.

 

Sort of tools for cutting holes drill two holes I a stick one for a center nail and the other for a pencil, get fancy and cut a slot in the stick that will hold a knife blade.

 

If you have more than a couple of holes, you might be better off with an adjustable hole saw.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Quick-Cutter-Adjustable-Hole-Saw-53731/203828012

 

In addition you need to move all the speaker wires to the right to be clear of the line voltage and install a divider plate where circled to separate low voltage from line voltage. You can't combine them in the same box without dividing them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Low-Voltage-Divider-Plate-SCDIVR/202077335

Edit: your box also has to be extended to the edge of the sheetrock and the edges filled with drywall compound so there are no spaces larger than 1/8" around the perimeter.

 

Thanks.

There are 7 speakers wire, I don't think there is enough room on the right if adding divider plate. If putting in divider plate, there are only 6 holes on the right of divider plate.

Update : contractor said he can take out Power outlet and leave it all for speaker wire only.

 

Your contractor isn't up to speed on home theater design. Fortunately he seems to have no problem making things right. You should never have speaker wires in close proximity to power outlets or you risk getting hum or noise in your speakers. Have him move the power outlet to a separate box. Check out Monoprice for great prices on wall plates and banana plugs.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4012
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9436
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6907

 

Thanks.

Please help me figure out how many of each item I need to order.


Quantity = 1: 3-Gang 7.1 Surround Sound Distribution Wall Plate with HDMI

Quantity = 7: High Quality Banana Binding Post Two-Piece Inset Wall Plate for 1 Speaker

How many pairs of Speaker Banana Plugs do I need? 7 Pairs?
or 14 pairs Please look at my first post's receiver, does each speaker need two pairs of Speaker Banana Plugs? One pair at Wall Plate end, and the other pair on Receiver end?

Quantity = 1: Blank plate

One more question: Look at picture # 1, one of 7 speaker wire is for subwoofer. While you look at the picture of attached wall plate, how to connect speaker wire to the behind of wall plate?

Thanks.

 

You would need one of the 7.1 wall plates if all of your speakers were in-wall speakers or you had already run wires to every speaker location. Not sure if you've done that. I thought you had four in-ceiling speakers and these were the ones that came out of that box with the power outlet. Didn't you buy tower speakers and a center channel too? I'm assuming that you would run speaker wire directly from the receiver to the tower speakers and center channel, possibly having the speaker wire run along the baseboard. To connect the speaker wires to the back of the wall plate you'll need to strip the wires and wrap them under each terminal after loosening the connector. Banana plugs would be best but they'd be too long and probably wouldn't fit in the box. You'll need 14 pairs of banana plugs, 7 for the wall plate and 7 for the receiver. Maybe post up some pics so we can see what you're dealing with.

 

As first post states:
Speakers: Total 7 speakers. Four in ceiling speakers, One front left speaker, one front right speaker, front center is subwoofer speaker. All spearker wire looks like picture # 2.

Those four in ceiling speakers look like picture #2. I don't think in ceiling speakers need power outlet, did you tell me (in another post) that those speakers are powered by receiver? So the outlet is for speaker wire only.

I think I have posted all the pictures in the first post, I have also described it in the first post: Picture # 1 is next to receiver, 7 speaker wire in the outlet, power outlet has been taken out of picture 1, now picture 1 is for those 7 speaker wire only. For those 7 speaker wire, the other end of all those 7 speaker wire looks like picture #2.

Forget about HDMI cable for now, it is in separate outlet, so I have ordered plate for HDMI cable already.

Thanks so much!

 

If I were you I would wait before I returned the Def Tech subwoofer. Try it out back by the shelf where the receiver is located. As I mentioned, bass is omni-directional so you won't really know where the sound from it is coming from.

I have no experience with wireless subs or speakers so you might want to see if you could download the owners manual for one and see how it connects.

And yes, the wall plates and banana plugs should be what you need.

 

Basement renovation is still in the process, it is scheduled to finish last week, but there are some plumbing problem, which requires to reopen ceiling to fix it.

I bought Def Tech subwoofer on Feb 2nd, and I think I need to return it in 30 days if I don't want it. I do not expect to get it set up by March 2. Moreover, I cannot tell which position is best to put subwoofer. Even if I know how to tell which position is best, how can I compare back position with other positions, I need to test it in multiple positions, before I decide which position is best, that means I need a very long RCA cable to bring subwoofer to different positions of room.

Thank you very much!

 

The subwoofer is probably the easiest to place in the room since it is omni-directional. Like I mentioned you shouldn't really be able to pinpoint where it is in the room when it's running. Because of that, placing it where it's easiest (by the shelf) will probably work out fine. Small adjustments are only needed if you find the bass to be boomy. That could also mean that you need to adjust the crossover point or the volume on the sub. Once you get everything connected you can run the Audyssey program.

From the Denon website:
The AVR-X3400H features the most advanced Audyssey MultEQ XT32 room acoustic measurement system including Audyssey Dynamic Volume, Dynamic EQ, LFC and SubEQ HT. Through these technologies, and with the supplied microphone, it exactly analyzes each speaker's output to optimize the overall listening experience.

 

Probably I will go with wireless subwoofer, I don't really like to put it next to shelf, it blocks the way to access movie source. Moreover, it is wet bar next to shelf. So I prefer to put subwoofer next to FL spearker, corner of room.

 

You do what you want, but if it were me I would not mess around with a wireless subwoofer.

 

Thanks for the advice. What do you mean "mess around"? Sounds like wireless surwoofer is a bad choice.

 

What I meant was that I would not use a wireless subwoofer.

 

Thanks. Your comments make me keep current SUB.

By the way, based on my pictures, where should I install in-ceiling speakers? I know it should be close to outlet, but I don't know how to determine the distance from front/left wall.

 

VAer, I would strongly suggest you get a new A/V consultant that can provide references or stick to proven surround-sound concepts examples of which can be found on a plethora of A/V websites.

Between wiring and equipment you are investing a good bit of money and I would hate to see it wasted because the installer is making guesses or trying to cover mistakes.

After he is gone you will be left with the results and I can almost guarantee he will not take any of your calls if things go sideways as I suspect they possibly will.

 

Thanks. It does not need to be very fancy, as long as it works out. Don't want to spend money on consultant. I am hiring current contractor, rather than professional company, only because the remodeling quote is cheaper.

 

I don't know why I kept thinking you had Polks. I love my Definitive Technology speakers, and think you've chosen wisely. The ProCenter1000 does not need a power outlet, just the speaker wire. If you have to put the center channel on the floor just make sure to angle it up toward ear level when you are sitting on the couch. I had a similar issue in my family room where the CLR2002 center channel was right under the projector screen. I had to buy a stand about a foot tall to get it at the right height.
Keeping all of the speakers the same brand is a good idea. Here's a pic of my small 3.1 system in the living room. A pair of ProMonitor 800's, a ProCenter 1000 and a sub that is not in the pic.

 

How about Definitive Technology DT 6.5R 2-way In-Ceiling Speaker ? Any older version(cheaper) of Definitive Technology In-Ceiling Speaker?

 

What is the difference between these two speakers (Definitive Technology DT6.5R In-Ceiling 6.5 Inch Speaker vs. Definitive Technology DT6.5STR In-Ceiling 6.5 Inch Stereo or 2 way Surround Speaker)? What does 2 way mean?

Thanks.

https://designeraudiovideo.com/product/definitive-technology-dt6-5r/

https://designeraudiovideo.com/product/definitive-technology-dt6-5str-in-ceiling-6-5-inch-stereo-or-2-way-surround-speaker-each/

 

I think 2 way speaker also have the feature of surwoofer, and my front center speaker can pick up 47Hz already.

Do I really need surwoofer? It would be better if I can get rid of surwoofer, since I don't have surwoofer cable buried in ceiling and I don't want to have a 25 feet cable on the floor.

This surwoofer cannot pick up anything below 32 HZ, not much different from 47HZ.

 

DT6.5R: 28 Hz - 30 kHz
DT6.5STR: 27 Hz - 30 kHz

I don't see a reason to have a separate surwoofer if I have either DT6.5R or DT6.5STR, plus front center speaker (catch as low as 47 Hz)

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/assets.soundunited.com/definitive/product_documents_legacy/D_DTSeries_OwnersManual%20(1).pdf

 

To answer an earlier question--"two way" simply means that there are two drivers or two ranges of frequencies reproduced from one speaker system. That is to say that there is a woofer and tweeter in one cabinet or enclosure. In this case, the driver is a coaxial unit with the woofer and tweeter sharing the same axis, a feature that improves phase coherence and speech intelligibility.

DT6.5R: 28 Hz - 30 kHz
DT6.5STR: 27 Hz - 30 kHz

I don't see a reason to have a separate surwoofer if I have either DT6.5R or DT6.5STR, plus front center speaker (catch as low as 47 Hz)

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/...dunited.com/definitive/product_documents_legacy/D_DTSeries_OwnersManual (1).pdf

The problem with specs like this is that they don't qualify them with a tolerance, ie +/- 10dB or similar. Those speakers may hit 28 hz but at a level so low that it's useless for any practical purpose. The fact that your center channel digs deep is also not relevant since mainly dialogue comes from the center channel.
The difference between 47 hz and 32 hz is almost half an octave, musically, the same as the difference between 10khz and 15khz or 5khz and 7.5khz. Though the numbers may differ in magnitude, the ear accepts the relationship to be proportional.
My subwoofer (2x 8" drivers in a transmission line) faithfully reproduces down to 15 hz (-3dB). While not every movie or song utilizes this capability, the impact it creates when called upon serves to further immerse the audience in the experience. Spending time and money to set up a surround sound system only to stop short and not include a sub is doing yourself a massive disservice, imo.

Sent from my mobile look-at device

 

wOjO posted some excellent information, much more eloquently than I could have.

Basically, the specs that show deep bass coming from relatively small speakers, such as these 6.5" Definitive Tech in-ceiling models or even the ProCenter 1000, is usually just marketing gimmicks used to make the speakers seem more capable than they really are. They will not perform like that during normal operation. A subwoofer is definitely needed in a home theater system or it will sound thin and lose the impact and excitement. When you set up the receiver, you'll tell it how many speakers you have and normally designate all of them as "small", and then the receiver will send all of the lower bass signals to the subwoofer, which will allow the other speakers to be free from reproducing the lower bass which will make them perform better.

I would get the cheaper Definitive Technology in-ceiling speakers and keep the subwoofer. Again, the subwoofer can be placed close to the receiver since you don't want the long cord. Once you hear how the subwoofer functions (as in not being able to tell where the sounds are coming from) then you'll probably understand why it's not that critical as far as placement.

 

the receiver will send all of the lower bass signals to the subwoofer

Receiver can do it automatically? Is there any setting needed?

I mistakenly thought: receiver sends everything out to every speaker, and let every speaker handles whatever it can handle.

Definitive Technology in-ceiling speakers are not cheap, it may cost more than $300 for only two speakers(but I will buy it, pretty much the last item I need to buy), the previous 4 in ceiling speakers cost $200. For everything added together(from cable/plate, to laptop/projector), it may cost me around $5000

The issue is I can find DT6.5STR, which is only $10.01 more than DT6.5R, not sure if I should go with DT6.5STR.

Thanks.

 

I had no idea that Walmart even sold DT. Those appear to be out of stock when I clicked the link. If they are, I wouldn't hesitate to get the slightly cheaper model that you mentioned.

 

Before I placed the order, there were 3 available. I got it @$170 for each. DT official site lists it at $249

Here is DT6.5R on walmart, @159.99, 4 available at this moment. $159.99 is not a deal at all, DT official site lists it at $179. I found it @ $138 on Amazon yesterday, but after so many posts, the deal is gone today. Maybe I clicked too many times on the amazon link, and Amazon detects it as popular product and increase the price.

They can be found with cheaper price at some other websites, but I guess those websites are not authorized sellers, may not be able to get the warranty.

 

I'm looking forward to when you have everything hooked up and start using the system. It'll be interesting to hear your impressions after you watch your first movie. Make sure you make it a good one with lots of sound effects. I looked up various lists of movies that show off a home theater sound system and it seems like The Dark Knight movie is included quite often. :batman: