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Water softener discharge / Sanitary tee cut in

4K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  Ghostmaker  
#1 ·
I am preparing to install a water softener in a recently built home and trying to figure out the best option for discharging the water softener. Long term I would like to run a separate drain line through the basement wall to discharge below the house. For now I am thinking of discharging it into our septic system (long as there isn't any major concerns over brine discharge into a septic). The other option is putting into the basement drain that serves as the perimeter drain for the foundation (Superior Wall/crushed stone footing), but I'm not sure if this may cause issues with this.

For the time being, in the basement I have a (already installed) vertical waste drain that I would like to tie the water softener discharge into. I would cut into the vertical section of 3" pipe and install a sanitary tee, which then would connect to a trap and then a small section of riser pipe with an air gap fitting on the top where the discharge line connects. My question is around installing the sanitary tee fitting into the vertical section of pipe. Because the pipe is already installed/rigid I don't think I will be able to flex it enough to slide the fitting over both ends of the pipe as I am gluing it together. How would you suggest installing this in this situation?
 
#2 ·
There's much controversy about dumping the backwash into your septic system. I can tell you my neighbor has problems that we're fairly certain was caused by this.

Most water softeners want an airgap between the backwash and the drainage piping. You don't want to hard connect the discharge direct to your drain pipes.
 
#3 ·
Yes I said above I would be installing an air gap above the trap. My concern mainly at this point would be installing the sanitary tee into the existing vertical waste pipe.

I will add that this veritical section of drain pipe already has a wye fitting for a cleanout on it, but from what I have read I should NOT use a wye fitting downstream of a trap as it can siphon out the trap, hence the need for a sanitary tee instead. If I am wrong about this please let me know, as that would allow be to avoid having to cut the existing vertical pipe.
 
#7 ·
I discharge into 4” corrugated pipe. The pipe thru the wall is 1-1/2” with a good pitch. It gets real cold in 49267 so I need to avoid freezing issues. I also have lots of acres so my discharge doesn’t affect anyone. The salt from the road treatment, which is in the hundreds of tons, far out weighs my 500 pounds of salt per year.


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#14 ·
I discharge into 4” corrugated pipe. The pipe thru the wall is 1-1/2” with a good pitch. It gets real cold in 49267 so I need to avoid freezing issues. I also have lots of acres so my discharge doesn’t affect anyone. The salt from the road treatment, which is in the hundreds of tons, far out weighs my 500 pounds of salt per year.


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Just curious why you transition from the 1-1/2" pipe to the 4" size? I am also in a colder climate (Northeast PA) so I would also be contending with freezing conditions in the winter.
 
#9 ·
There is disagreement but I'm from the camp that says don't backwash into the septic system. I don't know enough about the plumbing code to know if there is a minimum riser length needed to prevent the possibility of the trap getting flushed out by the backwash. Any softener that I have dealt with says a physical air gap - I don't know what an "air gap fitting" is.

Does your perimeter drain go to a sump pump or discharge to daylight by natural slope? Either way, that would be my choice.