UPDATE:

The gas guy showed up during the prescribed time Sunday morning, went to the back yard, completely removed the meter, cleaned and doped the connector threads, reassembled it, opened the big valve, sprayed everything with soapy water and then checked it all with his sniffer instrument. All was good and meters showed nothing leaking up to the shutoff valve by the WH. This was a big relief since I had been concerned about that nipple in the wall that the valve threaded onto. Then we went inside and he opened the valve, again sprayed all my connections with the solution and used the sniffer instruments. When he finished he said "it all looks good...no leaks between the valve and the WH control." He didn't say anything about the missing drip pocket and I sure as Hell didn't ask him about it.

Thanks, guys, for all the guidance.

 

The valve requires a flare. (copper) The flexible connector came with an adapter that you MUST use with it. It's a certified flare to NPT.

You'll have to shut off the gas to the house and replace the valve with one that's certified for gas. (that one isn't.)

 

Thanks, Super05.

I've never had to deal with flared fittings. Will the new valve already have the flare, or will I have to flare it myself?

Is the flare only on the output of the valve, and the other side have standard (female?) pipe threads for threading onto the gas pipe in the wall, with no flare?

 

I've got the gas connection line hooked up. I used 4 wraps of the yellow gas-rated teflon tape on all the Iron Pipe threads and nothing on the flare ends of the two adapters. Only complication was the 2 inch nipple that goes into the wall loosened when I was removing the old shutoff valve so I had to take the nipple out, clean the dried dope from its threads, put the tape around them and screw it back into the wall. Only screw up was wrapping the valve end of the nipple with tape before putting the eschueon on. When I put it on it was a tight fit and it bunched the teflon tape up. I had to wire brush the tape and re-apply it after getting the dreaded eschueon on. I'd appreciate some of you guys looking at this picture and seeing if there are any obvious mistakes.

As devoted readers of this rant may recall, the gas company came out at 11 pm last night to make sure the main valve by the meter was indeed off and not allowing gas to come through. When the guy finished he told me to call them when I was ready to have the gas turned back on. Well, after doing the connections this afternoon I decided to turn the gas back on myself and do the the soapy water test of the fittings. I got my biggest pipe wrench, went into the back yard only to find the guy had put a friggin' bowling pin looking lock on the valve. I guess they're serious about not wanting the homeowner operating their valves! They're supposedly returning tomorrow (Sunday) morning to open the valve.

 

I've got the gas connection line hooked up. I used 4 wraps of the yellow gas-rated teflon tape on all the Iron Pipe threads and nothing on the flare ends of the two adapters. Only complication was the 2 inch nipple that goes into the wall loosened when I was removing the old shutoff valve so I had to take the nipple out, clean the dried dope from its threads, put the tape around them and screw it back into the wall. Only screw up was wrapping the valve end of the nipple with tape before putting the eschueon on. When I put it on it was a tight fit and it bunched the teflon tape up. I had to wire brush the tape and re-apply it after getting the dreaded eschueon on. I'd appreciate some of you guys looking at this picture and seeing if there are any obvious mistakes.

As devoted readers of this rant may recall, the gas company came out at 11 pm last night to make sure the main valve by the meter was indeed off and not allowing gas to come through. When the guy finished he told me to call them when I was ready to have the gas turned back on. Well, after doing the connections this afternoon I decided to turn the gas back on myself and do the the soapy water test of the fittings. I got my biggest pipe wrench, went into the back yard only to find the guy had put a friggin' bowling pin looking lock on the valve. I guess they're serious about not wanting the homeowner operating their valves! They're supposedly returning tomorrow (Sunday) morning to open the valve. View attachment 665440

I seems every time a fitting is removed from an unexposed pipe, the pipe alway comes loose. When it’s put back in place there is no way to check for leaks. Hope the gas man used his sniffer around your work.

 

Gas (propane or natural) sediment trap/drip leg may be required on your gas appliance(s), as mentioned, it depends on your location/local jurisdiction. If nothing is said by the inspector, I wouldn't worry about it.

However, most installation manuals for any type of gas appliance recommend/require the use of them.

 

You're right....the Rheem manual does show one but they might be covering all bases. I'm in the desert so I wouldn't think moisture in the gas line would be much of a problem.

 

Is this the type of valve I'd need to use as a replacement for the existing 3/8 valve? It's listed as a "
1/2-in FIP x 1/2-in Flare 1 Piece Gas Valve

 

Is this the type of valve I'd need to use as a replacement for the existing 3/8 valve? It's listed as a "
1/2-in FIP x 1/2-in Flare 1 Piece Gas Valve

View attachment 665136

Ayuh,..... In order to use the line you have, you need a valve that is 1/2" pipe, to 1/2" pipe. not flare,.....
Flare, 'n pipe are not interchangeable,.....

 

It's good practice to replace a very old gas valve, like the one you have, while you replace the water heater. The one in the picture in post #4 is the right one.

 

Hate to bother you guys one more time but would you look at the picture and tell me if this layout of fittings is what I'll need to connect the water heater to the new shutoff valve?

 

Correct.

 

Looks good.

Is this in Texas? Just curious which the jurisdiction you're in. Some places will only leave it unlocked if a licenced contractor requested the shutoff.

Hopefully when he comes back, he will use a gas sniffer to double check for you. He might just do a dial test instead. You just have to be sure that the nipple in the wall isn't leaking. Soap only works shut exposed joints.

I just noticed that there's no drip pocket. I totally brain farted there. I honestly don't see the point of them, but it's a requirement here. May not be there [emoji2369]. A simple Tee with a 3" nipple pointed down and a cap is all you need. Was there one previously?

Btw, is the Gasline bonded to ground? If not, he might insist on it. I'm not sure if it's required for you. It is here.

Pipe bonding clamps are available at the big box home improvement stores, and are cheap. A length of 6 awg to go with it, and you're set. If the gas line runs near the cold water line (only if the incoming line is copper) or near the breaker panel, use that section of pipe. You only need one bonding cable for all of the piping.

 

This is in El Paso.

Yeah, I was concerned about the nipple in the wall not being able to be tested with soapy water, too. But the threads were completely cleaned and have 4 wraps of Teflon tape, and I got it as tight as I could. Should be OK.

The old WH did not have a drip pocket. I hope it's not required because I doubt there would be room for the Tee in the line as it is now configured. That 12" flexible connector would have to be bent quite a ways back to the left then sharply right to the Tee. I'd probably have to use a longer connector that would allow more bends. If the gas guy doesn't say anything about it I'll go without the drip pocket. Or add one later once I have gas that can be shut off with my new valve, and I know I've got secure fittings. If I've done these right I know I can re-do them with the drip pocket added in the line. Would I have to use a black iron Tee, nipple and cap or is Galvanized OK?

I haven't seen a bonding clamp on the gas line. My breaker panel is at the other end of the house. Could it be bonded by clamping the wire onto the new shutoff valve and up to the WH copper cold water pipe?

 

... I'd probably have to use a longer connector that would allow more bends. If the gas guy doesn't say anything about it I'll go without the drip pocket. Or add one later once I have gas that can be shut off with my new valve, and I know I've got secure fittings. If I've done these right I know I can re-do them with the drip pocket added in the line. Would I have to use a black iron Tee, nipple and cap or is Galvanized OK?

I haven't seen a bonding clamp on the gas line. My breaker panel is at the other end of the house. Could it be bonded by clamping the wire onto the new shutoff valve and up to the WH copper cold water pipe?

Yea, you can run straight to the copper pipe from next to the valve if needed. Just mentioned it just in case he complains, you'll know what to get

For the drip pocket, I'd probably put it on and water heater side, and connect to the top of it. (the branch turning into the gas heater.) You should have the room for that. Again, if he doesn't say anything, it looks good.

 

No galvanized pipe with gas


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That is not the code everywhere. I think it may be allowed in more places then it's barred. It's also mandatory in some places for outside piping.

Either way he doesn't have any.

 

Perfect!