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Kory Beam

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Have a question about under deck drainage.

My deck is second-story wrap around. About 30' of elevated walkway/deck along front of house before it kicks out at the staircase. Under that walkway portion is the entrance to my downstairs office/bedroom. After a snow... or rain, the area under gets soaked from dripping water.

I figure that steel corrugated roofing panels will help with drainage in that area above the slider entrance.
Use 1x @ ledger side, and 2x @ deck beam side for pitch.
This is only 4 1/2 feet deep from ledger to beam under the deck.
Attach corrugated panels, leaving 1" to 1-1/2" gap at beam end for gutter on inside of beam for water runoff.

Rather than use the usual bright zinc/galvanized coated panels at HD...
My local metal supply carries Corten/weathering steel corrugated panels.
Thought I could force the protective rust layer for a more rustic, warmer look than the usual bright silver zinc on the standard panels. Might not look so... blinding.

Only possible issue... the rib height of these more modern-ish looking V panel is 1/2".
Is that 1/2" rib height enough for water to drain? Seems like it should be.
I think regular wavy corrugated has a 3/4"-7/8" rib height.
Also concerned about air circulation for joists drying.
No trees above deck to clog with debris. What do you think?

Here is a pic of the under deck, and a pic of the weathering panels.
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Discussion starter · #2 ·
Also.... my supplier does have the corten/A606 weathering steel corrugated panels in the usual wavy 7/8" rib height if the 1/2" is not appropriate for the use. Either will likely look pretty good, and are similarly priced.
 
Had a discussion here with a guy a while ago that was using painted steel roofing, I don't think we discussed venting and drying. Opps.
I will see if I can find that.
 
If not too much trouble, could you please post pics of front and back of house - it sounds and looks very beautiful from just the little ones you posted - I'm nearing my building of retirement home and would love to see this one for an idea perhaps - thx so much.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks, guys!
I would only be installing panels under the walkway portion of the deck. Really is no need elsewhere under the rest of the structure. Just wanting to keep the entry/slider area downstairs along front of house from getting wet... dripping on my head when coming or going from there.

The front of the cabin gets full late afternoon/evening sun in winter. Faces west.
SoCal mountains - 6000'.
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks, Ron.
This looks rather simple to put together, especially given the short 4 1/2' depth of the underside of this portion of the deck.
Mainly concerned with joists/boards being able to dry after snow/rain.
Don't want to accelerate the demise of this deck.

There is a guy a few streets up from me with a nice newer deck with the corrugated steel panels under the deck. I should go ask him if he has noticed any drying issues.
 
Drying will become an issue, although if you used pt lumber, the main problem will be mold on top. That may be non issue if the area gets plenty of sun.
I'm almost always mindful of weather, so my choice would not be anything that encloses the space. Even if no plant, dust will build. Water, bits of algae and dust, pollen, bugs, WILL build.
I also like the idea of living with rust, which is certainly an option. Rust is sign of deterioration, but it looks bad when everything around is also rotting away.
What I'd do is hang the sheets on screws. I'd cut the sheets short so there's at least 1" on house side and 1-2" on beam side. I'd consider using a screw hook on the house side and space the hook so the sheet hangs about inch away from the joists? Drill a hole in the sheet big enough so the sheet doesn't bind too much, then screw the beam side with 4" screw, sheet hanging down 3". Plenty of slope for rain. Then screw in a gutter if you want to catch that water. If my ground has a plenty of drain underneath the beam, I may protect the beam with flashing and let the water drain there.
Panels don't have to overlap, I think, and esp if the gap is under the board.
 
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