Don't do it----that is a very soft and absorbent stone--it will be black in no time---I do not recommend it for shower walls either---the soaps soak in--and grow mold---turning the shower into an embarrassment in a hurry---

 

I should have taken pictures--I've seen two really bad ones in the last few months.

 

just like anything else, there will be variances. and there will always be people that can destroy anything. in my case, i had no issues what so ever. and other than squeegeeing and an occasional wipe down, no added precautions. i also had granite in that shower.

 

My shower area has honed travertine floor and wall tiles. They're a little over 11 years old. No blackening. They're still the same color as the travertine tiles in the toilet area (where the wall tiles rarely encounter water and where the floor tiles only get wet once a week when they're being cleaned).

Travertine tiles wouldn't be my first choice though. I would prefer using not a natural stone in a bathroom but these tiles were already installed when we moved in. I'm just saying that travertine tiles don't necessarily look as awful as people describe they would be after a long time of use. I don't use bar soaps though but I also didn't use bar soaps even when I had a bathtub with ceramic tiles. Bar soaps leave so much scum/residue/film on everything. My bathroom gets cleaned weekly with Dawn. A few times each year, I'd see small sections (less than a cm per section) of caulk turning black. This is on the ledge where shampoo etc bottles are kept so, unlike the rest of the shower area, the ledge stays wet longer because of water underneath or on the sides of the bottles - hence, the greater probability of mildew. I spot treat those with Clorox 2 (oxygen bleach). That's how I keep caulk and tiles black-free.

 

i used travertine in my last shower, on the floor. had it for a several years (sold the place).
it looked like bran new the whole time i had it.

 

Just say no.

 

Because the floor is somewhat bowl shaped---sometimes you need to knife the backing and expand the grout lines a bit in order to keep things straight looking---

The mud is mixed in the normal way--no need for an extra stiff mixture---

 

Stiff mud ?

In the tile industry "mud" is the 1-2" thick sand/cement base the tiles are installed over, for floors. You're talking about thinset, the adhesive to bond tiles. This distinction matters. The cured thickness is about 3/32" +-.

See floor mud here:

Jaz

 

Thanks, kt82. :thumbsup:

I did install a preslope, PVC liner, and final slope on that floor. The RG was applied to the surfaces above the pan/floor.

Since I used a 1/4 x1/4" sq notch trowel, and was setting over an untreated cementatious surface, I was able to walk on the tiles after 16 hours, or so. Of course, I laid down a couple layers of heavy cardboard over the tile, and walked on it like a cat.

As far as crack isolation over the OSB, I'd call CBP, and Schluter before attempting that installation, to see what each recommends. You'd want to let them know what kind of deflection the floor exhibits, and the finish material you'd like to install. The more information you give them, the better they can help you put together a system for a reliable installation.

Is there an existing crack you're trying to keep from running up through your floor? Does it show any vertical displacement?

 

thanks for the input
if I use 2''x2'' on sheets how do you lay them to make sure they stay flat ?
Stiff mud ?

 

Another vote for no on the natural stone for the shower floor. You can find porcelain that looks very, very similar. First pic is porcelain on walnut trav. The small octagonal tiles look almost like a perfect match to the stone.

Tiling the pan is a lesson in patience. I dry laid all the tile, and cut the 12x12 sheets to accommodate the the shape of my pan. Echoing what Mike said(once again), cutting the mesh backing allows you to make fine adjustments in many grout lines, instead of trying to correct an entire sheet. I had a point drain in the center of my pan. I started there, and worked my way out. I set all the full tiles, then did all the cut/fill once they were set enough to walk on.

Notice the color difference between wall/floor in the last picture. I decided to use an enhancing sealer on the stone. Definitely richened up the stone, and brought it closer in color to the little 1x1's between the larger octagonal tiles. If a wall/floor color match is critical, how you treat the stone should be decided before you select the porcelain floor tile. You need to make test pieces of stone, with the sealer you intend to use, for a more accurate idea of what the finished color will be.

 

I've seen more good looking travertine showers than bad---but how are you supposed to know how it will turn out? I know one of the showers was owned by a careful and clean person---

That one is a steam shower with a tight door---so moisture sticks around--

 

NIce looking job VEgas
Did you use the redguard for the pan instead of a vinyl liner?
when you say "set enough to walk on" are you talking overnight, 12 hrs or?
Just curious about the Red Gard as a crack prevention membrane ,can it be used in place of Ditra on a 1 1/4" OSB subfloor ?