The hole may be too large for your connector, meaning you may have to use bushings to draw it to the proper size. The breaker will cover the first TWO spaces, as it must contact both buss bars. This is a MAIN panel and not a sub panel, correct? It won't matter which location in the panel, as both busses are energized at the same time. Top or middle won't matter.

 

You need a 2 pole breaker. Also they say to run the wire as short and straight as possible. Maybe it is somewhat contradictory to shortest path, but perhaps going to the left side with less tight of a bend is better.

 

Likewise, I would go to bottom left with the breaker.

 

Looks good to me.

The wires for that surge protector look like #10 or #12.

If it is the main panel, shouldn't it have a main breaker?

Unless there a disconnect.

 

Is that a surge or a bonding bridge for cable or sat? I got to agree with Tex,,, sumptin might be wong here? A couple things maybe? But you should post a pic of the whole panel. Is this a diy job? Tex, the main is above, those are feed thru lugs but where is the N connection to this bar? It cannot be a bond screw. I dont recall what Eatyon looks like above the bolts? Where is the service neutral?

 

Eaton does make plugin BR whole house surge protectors which eliminates external mounting.........

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.BRPSURGE.html

 

I didnt look as to who this was from. He got some static for being a nitpicker but this forum is for that and in the end maybe it was justified. We need a pic of this whole panel. The surge is the least of the problems.
I do several things at once in this time slot and I had to go back and look, it took a minute and another coffee.

 

The surge protectors inside the panel are not as strong (good) as the ones outside. Biggest reason I stopped using the in the panel protectors 10 years ago.
Follow the directions from the MFG when installing these units. A poorly installed protector is less than effective.
Eaton CHSPT2SURGE SPD Type 2
Enclosure^NEMA 4^^Voltage^120/240 VAC rated line voltage^^Phase Single^^Frequency (Hz)^60^^Maximum Continuous Operating Voltage^150 V L–N, 300 V L–L^^Voltage Protection Rating^600 V L–N, 1000 V L–L, 800 V N–G, 600 V L–G^^Nominal Discharge Current^5kA^^Surge Current Capacity^22 kA^^Surge Current Capacity, Per Phase Rating^36 kA (L1–N 18 kA, L1–G 18 kA, L2–N 18 kA, L2–G 18 kA).

 

You had a guy fix some wires but he did you a disservice by not looking further when that was fukked up, he should have pulled this cover also. I would have.
Number 1 thing for surge is good uffer.

 

The hole may be too large for your connector, meaning you may have to use bushings to draw it to the proper size. The breaker will cover the first TWO spaces, as it must contact both buss bars. This is a MAIN panel and not a sub panel, correct? It won't matter which location in the panel, as both busses are energized at the same time. Top or middle won't matter.

Yeah, the hole going into the main panel is quite large…the 3/4 size is what I need to use with the surge protector, but they may have used the larger knockout…can you explain how I use the bushing to make it the proper size?

You need a 2 pole breaker. Also they say to run the wire as short and straight as possible. Maybe it is somewhat contradictory to shortest path, but perhaps going to the left side with less tight of a bend is better.

Did you see the breaker I linked in my original post? I have to assume that is the correct 2 pole breaker for my CH setup. Thanks for confirming the left side is better…wasn’t sure if I should do it just beneath the main breaker at the top.

Looks good to me.

The wires for that surge protector look like #10 or #12.

If it is the main panel, shouldn't it have a main breaker?

Unless there a disconnect.

This is the main panel outside which has the meter. Full pic included below.

The feeders go through the wall to my subpanel in the garage.

Does the pic I provided help?

Eaton does make plugin BR whole house surge protectors which eliminates external mounting.........

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.BRPSURGE.html

I read the Siemens one was the best out there. I also have a CH breaker setup, I don’t believe the one you linked will work with my system.

Thoughts?

You had a guy fix some wires but he did you a disservice by not looking further when that was fukked up, he should have pulled this cover also. I would have.

What are you talking about? When I had my feeders fixed (in the subpanel in my garage) the electrician went outside to the main and checked the feeders. No nicks and he made sure they were torqued properly.

 

Yeah, the hole going into the main panel is quite large…the 3/4 size is what I need to use with the surge protector, but they may have used the larger knockout…can you explain how I use the bushing to make it the proper size?

Did you see the breaker I linked in my original post? I have to assume that is the correct 2 pole breaker for my CH setup. Thanks for confirming the left side is better…wasn’t sure if I should do it just beneath the main breaker at the top.

This is the main panel outside which has the meter. Full pic included below.

View attachment 788889

The feeders go through the wall to my subpanel in the garage.

Does the pic I provided help?
I read the Siemens one was the best out there. I also have a CH breaker setup, I don’t believe the one you linked will work with my system.

Thoughts?

What are you talking about? When I had my feeders fixed (in the subpanel in my garage) the electrician went outside to the main and checked the feeders. No nicks and he made sure they were torqued properly.

Got it now.

Your first pictures missed the main.

 

To keep the leads as short as possible, I would install the surge on the right side near the knockout.

 

We went thru some stuff untill I really pecked tech and a code forum to figure out it was the fuggin phone co. The guy "doesnt understand" so he does what he thinks instead of following the instructions. They have simplified this concept by now requiring a bridge to land the grounding on and saw a very smart satellite guy do a compliance check. I was impressed, they actually documented it.

 

If you can find these in the right size, put one on the inside and one on the outside of your fitting.

@Sberry what does post #13 have to do with the OP's situation?

 

If you can find these in the right size, put one on the inside and one on the outside of your fitting.

This is at my Home Depot. Will it work?

 

That is not the whole panel,,, get another picture. Where is the service neutral in this picture? We see the N for the garage but where is the service? Looks like the garage N is mounted on equipment ground bar? Feel free to correct this or make it clear.

 

How does this N join the service N?

 

The neutral comes down as a bus bar on the right side

 

What 13 has to do with it is that cause and effect may be confused at some later date and that some install wasnt done correct.

 

Thank you Jim,, I rushed thru and not wearing glasses.

 

To keep the leads as short as possible, I would install the surge on the right side near the knockout.

Good point, so I can mount right here to keep it as short as possible?

Another question, I did find this Eaton surge protector that works with my panel.

It looks slightly easier to install, but I have to wonder if the FS140 has better specifications.

If you can find these in the right size, put one on the inside and one on the outside of your fitting.

Can I use this instead?

The neutral comes down as a bus bar on the right side

Thank you Jim,, I rushed thru and not wearing glasses.

So, my panel looks good, right? Got a bit confused by some of your posts Sberry 🤣

 

Can I use this instead?

Certainly, if you can find the right size.

 

There are other knockouts on the bottom of the panel.

 

Cool guy, if you are really compulsive about whole house surge protection, then you should call your POCO and have an under meter Type 1 SPD installed. Having more behind the meter Type 1, 2 and 3's down the line won't hurt either.

Whole House Surge Protection Type 1 | Meter Based

Whole house surge protection type 1: meter based surge protectors. Click to learn more, & why all 3 types are important for full protection.

kbelectricpa.com

 

Use the rings on the inside AND outside, sandwiching the fitting so it will hold in the opening.

 

Thanks. And will there be any “grounding” issues or concerns since my panel is painted?

Lastly, this product would be easier to install, but I have to assume it doesn’t provide the same amount of protection as the Siemens.

 

As stated earlier, the ones inside the box are not as good at the external ones. Stick to the external one. No grounding issues.

 

The connection does need a waterproof hub. You are below the energized parts.

 

Out of the box thinking (pun intended) but can the device be installed inside the box? There certainly seems to be the room.