That is not a pipe...it's a flexible dryer vent.

You can get a new piece at home depot. It's an easy job to replace.

With that said, the flexible dryer vent like that is not the 'best' way to go. At least you don't have the plastic stuff that can melt and your run is short. Just keep it clean (vacuum it out at least once a year) and you will be fine.

Now, it if was me, I'd be replacing it with hard pipe....but that is me. It's too short for you to need to worry about.....once you replace it.

BTW....they also make a flexible Aluminum pipe that is a hard side. It actually might be easier for you to work with.

Pull out the dryer....attach it to the vent...and with the washer out of the way, you attache it to the dryer when you push it back in. I would use the screw clamp you have at the wall and the spring clamp at the dryer.

 

Now, it if was me, I'd be replacing it with hard pipe....but that is me.

BTW....they also make a flexible Aluminum pipe that is a hard side. It actually might be easier for you to work with.

Pull out the dryer....attach it to the vent...and with the washer out of the way, you attache it to the dryer when you push it back in. I would use the screw clamp you have at the wall and the spring clamp at the dryer.

Why do you think a hard pipe is better? Could you point me to the photos of a hard pipe on Home Depot web-site so that I may know what it looks like and how big it is?

What's screw clamp? What's spring clamp? Any photos for me to check out?

 

Good advice above---in the duct work isle--you will find a 90* elbow--that part will help--attach that to the dryer outlet---they also sell the clamps in that isle---

 

Do the 90......It will actually make it a whole lot easier to connect and disconnect. It gives you a nice hard piece to hold on to.

 

in that space, rigid pipe would be friggin' tough to get connected properly. not worth it.

that is the thin cheap flexible stuff. what you want is semi-rigid flex. it both flexes and stretches, is solid-feeling and holds its shape.

here is a link on home depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deflect-o-6-in-x-8-ft-Semi-Rigid-Aluminum-Duct-A068-4-A/100140592

 

My current dryer vent is a little over 2' long. The one on the Home Depot site is 8' long. Isn't that too much for what I need? What tool shall I use to cut it to 2' long?

Will there be any leakage problem if I don't do a perfect job in connecting?

 

the link i sent you was just for reference. i'm sure they sell different lengths. a pair of cheap metal snips would easily do the job if you need to cut it shorter.

 

Search Results for dryer vent pipe at The Home Depot

 

You seriously need to pick up a home maintenance book and study it. Home Depot has a great one (shown below) that has pictures of tools and really shows how the systems in a house work. It will also show how to do most common house repairs. The idea that you thought a dryer vent was a pipe is concerning to me. As someone said you buy the flexi duct and cut it down with a pair of tin snips. If you don't have tools you can get the basics very cheaply at Harbor Freight. You can order them online. Tin snips there would be about $4 compared to about $13 at Home Depot. In addition to the book you might consider a subscription to Family Handyman magazine which is about $10 a year. Good luck with your new home.

 

You seriously need to pick up a home maintenance book and study it. Home Depot has a great one (shown below) that has pictures of tools and really shows how the systems in a house work. It will also show how to do most common house repairs. The idea that you thought a dryer vent was a pipe is concerning to me. As someone said you buy the flexi duct and cut it down with a pair of tin snips. If you don't have tools you can get the basics very cheaply at Harbor Freight. You can order them online. Tin snips there would be about $4 compared to about $13 at Home Depot. In addition to the book you might consider a subscription to Family Handyman magazine which is about $10 a year.

I'll do some study about the basics of home repair. Will get tin snips at Harbor Freight as you recommend.

I don't feel confident about replacing the vent by myself (especially when this involves removing the hoses from the washer in order to get it out of the way).

How much cost is reasonable to hire a plumber to replace the dryer vent (and remove the hoses from washer and put them back on when work is done)?

 

You could call a plumber--likely a minimum service call and about $25.00 in parts.

An appliance repair company could also do the work--or your heating repair guy--

 

Thanks for the info! Will call a plumber to get a quote.

 

i would personally not remove the hoses unless you absolutely have to. not to be negative, but the last time i did that with mine, the valves started leaking. those valves, if they are the typical hose bib style turn type (not quarter turn) tend to get crudded up being open for so long, then when you close them they don't close and they leak.

if they look to be new and in good condition, take the chance, but when i did it, it ended up being a much longer job because i had to replace the shutoff valves too.

but hey, if you call a plumber out they can handle everything. just might end up costing you a bit more.

 

Some times it is best to call in a pro----You now know how it is done--so you can speak intellegently to a service man--

 

One alternative you may have is to find a reputable licensed handyman, maybe in the yellow page section of your local phone book. You could also ask at your local big box apron stores. In my area they big box apron stores now have a list of specialty contractors that they can recommend. A handyman would be less cost than a licensed plumber and could do this job.

 

Got any friends that owe you a favor?

 

Most of my friends are office workers and are not very handy.

 

A co-worker recommends a handyman that works for him. The handyman will take a look at the dryer vent and hopefully fix it soon.

 

Whereabout are you located?

(location doesn't show on mobile app)

 

I'm near Washington, DC.

 

Too far for me to offer help, sorry.

 

Thanks anyway!

 

Before you have the handyman in pop into Lowes, Ace or Home Depot and get stainless steel braided washer hoses. Make sure you get two. Those rubber ones are against code most places. All washer hoses are supposed to be replaced every five years. I can't believe the home inspector didn't make the last owners of your condo do it.

There's nothing wrong with hiring out the job. Just familiarize yourself about how the house works so the person you hire can't easily rip you off.

 

Before you have the handyman in pop into Lowes, Ace or Home Depot and get stainless steel braided washer hoses. Make sure you get two. Those rubber ones are against code most places. All washer hoses are supposed to be replaced every five years. I can't believe the home inspector didn't make the last owners of your condo do it.

What size of stainless steel braided washer hoses shall I get? How long?

The home inspector found many major problems with this condo. But the seller's agent had requested removing home inspection contingency early in the stage. I had agreed to removing the contingency because I had trusted that the condo should be in good condition since it looked great in photos and also in person.

On the other hand, after the home inspector presented the many problems, the seller said he would only take care of three minor issues but refused to do anything about the other issues.

After I moved in, I experienced the real condition of the condo and felt almost deceived by their marketing approach.

Next time when I look for a house, no matter how great it looks, I'll not agree to removing home inspection contingency.

 

I may get new washer and dryer (from Best Buy or Sears) and get them to install for me.

 

I want to know if my washer is electric, and if my dryer is a gas dryer. See photos. Could anyone tell me?

Are my GE washer and dryer good brand? If not, maybe it's time to replace them.

 

Per your pictures there, both your washer and dryer are electric. If your washer and dryer are working fine now, there's no good reason at all to replace them.

The braided stainless steel cold/hot water hoses are a very good idea - as far as I know those sets all come in one standard/basic hose length, or at least the vast majority seem do. Just ask for "Braided stainless steel washing machine supply hoses" at Lowes/HD/Ace/etc - they'll get you hooked up with the right stuff. The cheap rubber hoses are susceptible to bursting failures (especially as they get older), so the braided stainless hoses help prevent that.

 

As you suggest, I will go to Lowes to get two braided stainless steel water hoses. I assume they are the same for cold and hot water.

I am not sure if I should keep the washer and dryer, because there was dog hair in the water. It seems that the previous owner washed dog clothes in the washer and the dryer. I'm not sure if they are clean.

Also it may cost about $100-$200 for the handyman to replace dryer vent and replace the water hoses. But brand new GE washer and dryer would cost $900. See http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-3-9-cu-ft-Top-Load-Washer-in-White-GTWN2800DWW/203228624?quantity=1

 

Before the handyman comes, I want to get the materials that he needs for replacing the dryer vent and water hoses.

Please review the list below and let me know if I miss anything:

1) stainless steel braided washer hoses

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-4-ft-...oses-2-Pack-PM14X10005DS/202049926?keyword=stainless+steel+braided+washer+hoses

2) Semi-rigid duct

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-8-ft-Semi-Rigid-Dryer-Duct-WX08X10075DS/202214660

3) 90 degree elbow

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-90-Degree-Round-Adjustable-Elbow-B90E4/100033952

4) Dryer vent clamp

http://www.homedepot.com/s/screw%20clamp?NCNI-5

 

Before leaving the store be certain the 4" ell will fit the semi-ridgid duct. I prefer worm screw clamps ( with convenient thumb screw ) rather than the dryer duct clamps.

 

I got a semi-rigid duct and an elbow with worm screw clamps. I also got stainless steel washer hoses and a disposal hose with worm screw clamps. See photo.

Please let me know which type of stainless steel washer hoses is better (one with coating and the other doesn't).

 

I have no experience with stainless washer hoses. I really don't trust anything made in the last 20 years and that's why my hoses are so old and nylon reinforced rubber made by Gates or Goodyear.

Hopefully someone will answer the water supply hose question for you.

 

When I was working through the details of buying my house, the realtor was late showing up to a meeting. She said that she was showing a different house to someone else, and when they walked up to the front door, water was running out. The washer hoses were old and one of them had busted open. Water was just shooting out all into the house. It flooded the kitchen and living room, and was flowing out the front door and down the driveway. The house was vacant, and the last time someone had been to the house was 3 days before that she knew of.

When I moved in, my washer hoses were in such bad shape that they were rusted to the gate valves. One of them split open when I picked it up.

Because of that, and what happened with the realtor, I use the stainless braided hoses with 1/4 turn ball valves on the water supply. The valves are in a convinient and easy to reach spot, right over the washer, so I only turn them on when I wash clothes, and turn them back off when I am done. No worry of a busted hose unless it busts while using it.

 

Hope the water hose was the only major issue you've had with the house you bought.

Do I need to get 1/4 turn ball valves?

 

The red and blue handles where the hoses attach to the washer box ARE quarter turn shutoffs. Using them with some regularity is a good idea as unused valves seem more likely to fail once you actually need them, but turning them on only for washing clothes can be a bit of paranoia, sort of like unplugging your toaster when you're not using it. It won't hurt you, but it probably will never harm you if you don't do it.

 

The red and blue handles where the hoses attach to the washer box ARE quarter turn shutoffs. Using them with some regularity is a good idea as unused valves seem more likely to fail once you actually need them

Do you suggest that I turn the valves on and off periodically?

 

Yes, just every so often so that when the time comes that you actually have to remove the hoses, you don't run into the awkward situation where the valves won't turn off completely because they've seized up from disuse.

 

That washing machine discharge hose sure looks small. Mine is more like 1-1/4" or so, that looks almost like a dishwasher discharge hose. $100-200 to replace the exhaust and supply hoses? Dang, I need to start charging more. I'd expect that from a licensed plumber, but not a handyman.

 

The new washing machine discharge hose fits 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" stubs. It seems about the same size if not smaller than the existing one. See the photo of my purchases including the washing machine discharge hose. Is it too small?

Sorry for my miscommunication. $100-$200 was my own estimate of how much it would cost the handyman. However, the handyman told me it would be $60 for his and his son's labor cost, very reasonable in my opinion.

 

Corrogated flexible dryer vent should be illegal. Run solid pipe and tape the joints with aluminum tape.

 

I was advised to use semi-rigid dryer vent. Why is it illegal?