Kansas City, Mo..
I'll call and ask around too

 

any pro const supply house OR, better yet, a decorative conc supply store,,, send me your city/state - maybe i know a good source for you,,, the latter's usually a better resource as they have worn knees/dirty hands experience :yes:

 

where would I find something like that?

 

we'd use a polymer-modified conc mix w/VERY fine silicon carbide aggregate,,, typically it has a compressive strength of 5,600psi, flexural strength of 750#, tensile strength of 240#, & can be feather-edged,,, it can also be colored & has excellent bonding strength w/o the use of any bonding agent,,, doubt any harley will hurt it.

oh - did i mention we use these materials down to 38f & rising ? it cures in 3 or 4 hrs & can withstand foot traffic - 24hrs & you can drive on it :thumbsup: if you're worried about low temps, leave a spot/floodlight on as these materials are not highly exothermic as is regular portland.

probably forgot to mention you can't find this stuff at ANY apron/vest store !

 

I've thought of that, or even hard rubber. The issue is two fold: (1) will it crack/give to much if any weight, person or motorcycle is directly on it or (2) if moisture every gets in there and does a freeze/thaw cycle what will happen.

I think i'm going to try a small area with grinding first. But now that the weather is under 50s nightly it looks like this will be a first of spring project, errr winter sucks.

 

howzabout cutting a scrap piece of ply w/angle as you require on the btm then tape it to your 2' level ? as i recall, someone once said ' necessity is the mother of invention ! ' :yes:

 

Thank you for the responses. How do you suppose I make a jig for a handheld grinder? I think it's going to rattle all over the place unless I'm holding it.

 

(NOT just because i own) apron/vest stores rent sawtec7" grinders w/dust muzzle to attach to a vac,,, we use turbo cup wheels from ebay ($50) - 1/2 days work - make a jig to keep angle constant

 

What type of tool, outside a grinder with diamond blade, can be used to grind a 45degree angle on over 22 feet of concrete?

 

IF it were our floor, we'd grind the high edge 1/2way then o'lay the lower to bring that up to meet the lowered side.

IF you owned a beemer, you'd have fewer issues ( no noise, better handling, faster, abs braking ) :laughing:

adhesion to existing conc can be accomplished easier using polymer-modified conc ( contains polymers, white or gray cement, fine aggregate ),,, we used to do that work routinely

 

Ahh DannyT - you are supposed to say sure slapping concrete mud on there from 1.5" to a feather edge will do great and be fine! lol.

Any more takers or ideas? Because it is in the middle of the garage it will only get foot traffic and maybe the Harley tire on it. I really just need something to feather it out so I can get epoxy over it and not have the trip hazard.

 

you basically want to do the same thing by adding on to the lower concrete a sloped bevel. it will be hard to add something on that will be durable.

 

I'm not really fond of the idea of beveling the edge...what machine could I rent or use to bevel such a long edge?

Really just want to do some type of concrete, mortar, cement, etc. slope, then I'll do an epoxy floor coating.

Any more ideas?

 

Here is a picture of the edge

 

i would just grind a bevel on the higher one

 

No idea unless you post a picture what was done there.
Pretty common to see someone try poring over a sinking, cracking slab or trying to keep water from running into the garage due to improper grading.

 

Oh and the height difference isn't due to settling. The pours are flat, minus the slight downhill decline for water run off.