The only way to "fix" it is to remove it and reinstall a new sheet that isn't as close to the ground and has proper flashing on it.

If you are okay with a slightly different look, you can install some PVC trim board on the bottom after you cut back the measured amount (i.e. 3.5" for some 1" by 4" PVC) and install a proper Z-bar flashing up behind the bottom edge of the T1-11 prior to the installation of the PVC trim board.

Only issue is that you have to do it all the way around to look right.

 

The whole bottom will need to be done for the most part, but I seen a video on YouTube where they cut horizontal and applied caulking in between the top piece and new bottom strip they repaired, is this not a good way?

 

Before screwdrivers..... Dang..... I think I'll crawl back into my box now. :vs_closedeyes:

 

I have to screw some power into that sentence.:vs_cool:

 

If I understand the question correctly, the siding and bottom trim would have an additional nail or two into the blocking. Install the blocking after you cut the bottom of the T-111 but before you add the flashing and PVC trim.

 

Agree. Just cut 2x4's the width of your stud bays (usually 14 1/2"), and with the bottom portion of the siding off, insert the 2x4 up across the bottom of the dangling siding between bays and attach it with short decking screws, leaving half of it showing below the dangling siding. That way the top portion of the siding is supported across and the trim and bottom portion of new siding will be supported as well.

Ah I see. Would it be better to have the 4" side showing or the 2" side. I have access to the inside garage as it's unfinished also.

 

Agree. Just cut 2x4's the width of your stud bays (usually 14 1/2"), and with the bottom portion of the siding off, insert the 2x4 up across the bottom of the dangling siding between bays and attach it with short decking screws, leaving half of it showing below the dangling siding. That way the top portion of the siding is supported across and the trim and bottom portion of new siding will be supported as well.

 

I always think more is better. You would stand them up but I would go more. like a 2x6 or 2x8 And I would do that first if the framing all looks solid from the inside. With the siding there it will make this easier to place. You can angle screw down from the top into the studs or thru the studs into the blocks, what ever it takes to make them solid in place.

 

As a painter, I've had to repair that T-111 many times using different methods. WOW's way works well as you just have to cut off the rot and then apply a trim board. PVC is great because it won't rot and can touch the ground without wicking up moisture. Wood is ok too, but you will want some sort of barrier underneath it where it hits the ground or it will rot in short order.

You can do it as you are planning to do, but, you still have to deal with the moisture problem at the bottom and the repair piece(s) you put in will rot just like what's happening now. The PVC trim idea is best in my humble opinion.

And, to be perfectly honest, T-111 is fairly cheap, so, removing the whole sheet is a good option too. Then you can replace it with engineered T-111 OR Fiber Cement T-111 which can be painted and won't rot.

 

I would use flashing tucked up behind the house wrap but not shoved up tight the the bottom of the siding, prime and paint the fresh saw cut to.
Buy material after cutting because you may find other problems with the framing and the best plans can be changed.

 

Exactly what I encountered. I had to replace a bunch of studs that looked ok from the inside but were rotten on the siding side (no wrap or subwall - just siding on stud. It's been a PITA but easier and cheaper than tearing in all out, re-doing the pad, permits, yada, yada.

 

Thank you all for the advice. Pvc trim and z flashing sounds good because of how it got rotten in the first place, if I do replace the whole t-1-11 panel though I will look into the ones that don't rot or install flashing under the new panel.

 

Thank you all for the advice. Pvc trim and z flashing sounds good because of how it got rotten in the first place

If you do this you should add blocking in between the studs so the siding has full perimeter nailing. This is important for two reasons.

1) if the bottom of the siding is only secured with a nail at each stud then soon the siding will become wavy due to lack of support.

2) if the siding is also the sheathing on the wall you'll lose shear strength since the sheet is no longer connecting the top and bottom plates.

 

Note, too, you have 4" oc T1-11 and 8" oc wide RB&B simulated T1-11, so you have two animals to tame. I think the bottom trim board and z flashing will work just fine on both.

 

The thing I don’t like about flat blocking (the 2x turned on edge to maximize the available nailing surface) is when hand nailing the siding it’s easier than you'd think to 'knock the block out of position' which can create a few moments (not so much of an issue when gun nailing though).

With the blocks turned on edge you have less of a nailing surface and need to be more accurate with the placement of the blocks but you end up with a much more solid nailing surface and "knocking the block out of position" is rare.

 

Putting the lumber on edge won't give you enough to tie all the siding, trim and siding together. You need the flat surface. I like to use screws to attach things like this, even if they are trim screws.

 

Just like a shower.

Ok so I'll go in the garage after I cut the rot off and use a 2x4 with the 4 inch facing out so the screws don't have to go right on the edge. Sound about right? Thanks for the pic btw.

 

Just like a shower.