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Sump pump recommendations

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21K views 38 replies 11 participants last post by  SPS-1  
F
#1 ·
Hello
My sump pump works fine, and is approximately at least 10 years old (10 years ago is when we bought the house, but I don't know when it was installed by the previous owner) - I don't know the brand though
I also have a Wayne ESP25 battery operated sump pump as a backup, that I installed myself 7 years ago - To be honest, I don't think it ran more than 10 cycles !!!
Anyway, I had some issues with the check valve installed on the Wayne.....It was stuck, and had to replace it (glad I was home)
But it made me think about everything that could possibly go wrong with sump pump: the pump itself, the float, the switch, the check valve, etc.....
I know my primary pump seems to work fine, but IF I were to change it, which one should I buy among all the different brand:
Wayne, Zoeller, Ridgid, Everbilt, Liberty Pump, Superior Pump, Campbell Hausfeld, Barracuda, Little Giant, Myers, Simer, etc...
What is the preferred power: 1/3hp, 1/2hp, 3/4hp, 1hp?
What is the best type of float?
My sump pit is standard size, and when it raining a lot, the pump kicks in quite often....
 
S
#5 · (Edited)
french_guy said:
.
What is the preferred power: 1/3hp, 1/2hp, 3/4hp, 1hp?
What is the best type of float?
My sump pit is standard size, and when it raining a lot, the pump kicks in quite often....
Click to expand...
No plumbers chimed it yet, so I will give my two cents.
Probably, correct sizing and installation is more important than the brand. I am no plumber either, but I have been watching the pump in my new house and have a few observations.

You should be able to check the HP of your current pump, and you seem to have a good idea of how much it runs in a heavy rainstorm. Bigger is not always better. Mine is only 1/2 HP, but it pumps way to quickly. Recently, in a very heavy rainstorm, it was running for 6 seconds every 40 seconds. Electric motors don't like being started that frequently. Its going to lead to premature failure. Might be able to get a little more travel out of the float switch, but I am looking for more than just a little change. I got a new vertical float switch on order that has upto 15" of travel. Don't know why, but almost all of the vertical float switches have only 6" of travel. I wasn't getting that much change of water level --- maybe there is some lost motion.
I got a vertical float switch, and that makes more sense to me than the tethered style which I would be concerned of it hanging up on something. Glad it has the piggyback electrical connection, so it makes it easy to change just the float switch. I seen some electronic float switches, but they all seemed to be only 6" travel also.
 
T
#6 ·
You realize that there is no answer to which is best - brand, style, switch type, etc.. Ask 20 people and you will get 20 opinions. If you cannot afford a flooded basement, looking for the cheapest one might backfire. But there are no guarantees with ANY brand or style.

I like submersible vs. pedestal. I have been using Zoellers for 4 decades. U.S. company with long history - they have a commercial/industrial background that gives me confidence. Works in my small diameter pit and is noted to handle solids good. About 15+ years ago there was a lot of internet chatter about their switches failing early. Never affected me. On my last one I moved up to the M63 from the M53 due to the marketing (better components/warranty, who knows?). I would buy Liberty also, for similar reasons. They might have a better switch design and they use less amps, if that is a concern in your application.

Size? The one that fits your system design. Bigger is not necessarily bigger. Switch design - who knows - seems that a mechanical switch/pump might be more prone to failure, but mine last 10 years +.

At 10 years, you might consider replacing yours for peace of mind. Keep the old one for back-up.

Good luck.
 
S
#13 ·
That's what I kinda liked about the old pedestal sump pumps. With the motor out of the pit, you could hear when its running. And keeping the electric motor out of the water just makes sense. But everybody says the submersibles are better, and the external motor types are cheaply made.
 
#2 ·
I have owned Liberty pumps that were reliable.
 
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#7 ·
The power of the pump is normally determined by how high the water needs to be pumped,

That is measured from the bottom of your sump pit, to the highest point in your sump plumbing,

I prefer a submersible pump, with a separate float switch that the pump plugs into,

I just replumbed my entire sump system, and also installed a new check valve, do a Google search for "quiet check valve"
 
F
#9 ·
Did you use the Quiet check valve that comes with the 2 unions:
www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Campbell Check Valve Quiet CLR1.5 by Brady MfrPartNo 0823-15C, White : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Campbell Check Valve Quiet CLR1.5 by Brady MfrPartNo 0823-15C, White : Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
or the one with the rubber couplers:
 
F
#8 ·
I'm definitely not looking for something cheap.....not for a sump pump that is protecting my basement
Yes, I've heard about Zoeller. Apparently, they make good sump pump (I've heard the same about Liberty Pump)
The M63 is a 1/3HP......might be enough after all. I should run my actual pump with a Kill-a-watt to see how many watts it uses.....
Yes, at 10 years, I'm thinking to replace it for piece of mind, but keep it for sure.....who knows. This is why I'm asking all those questions actually
I may even want to find a small foot print sump pump to be able to install 2 actually, plus my 12V Wayne ESP25 as a 2nd backup....
I'm going on vacation in a few days, and I don't want to change the whole system without being able to verify everything works fine during a couple weeks period. So I will do the replacement when I come back.....
 
F
#29 · (Edited)
T
#33 ·
The weakest part of any sump pump you get will be the switch and float. I've wired up the switch so it's on all the time and installed these instead. You can make the pump turn on and off at a higher and lower level so it doesn't cycle on and off all the time, which is hard on a pump. It also will sound an alarm if the water rises over the top contact for too long. I've put them in both of my homes. I have zoeller pumps but even though they are reliable, I've had the switches fail. HydroCheck Sump Pump Float Switch with Hi-Lo Dual Sensors and Built-in Alarms (HC6000v2), Made in The USA - Sump Pump Accessories - Amazon.com
 
F
#34 ·
taylorjm said:
The weakest part of any sump pump you get will be the switch and float. I've wired up the switch so it's on all the time and installed these instead. You can make the pump turn on and off at a higher and lower level so it doesn't cycle on and off all the time, which is hard on a pump. It also will sound an alarm if the water rises over the top contact for too long. I've put them in both of my homes. I have zoeller pumps but even though they are reliable, I've had the switches fail. HydroCheck Sump Pump Float Switch with Hi-Lo Dual Sensors and Built-in Alarms (HC6000v2), Made in The USA - Sump Pump Accessories - Amazon.com
Click to expand...
How have you wired up the switch? have you just used a zip tie, or did you take it apart?
 
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