I have a bump out section of the roof that is where the plumbing and electrical pipes and conduits run from the first floor to the second floor. There is an access door on the bump out area in case I need to add, delete or repair anything in the future.

The bump out area is framed in wood, and the roofer waterproofed everything and put a small flat roof on it, installed the wire lath and it's ready for stucco. The box is 24" wide, 42" high and 32" deep.

Here are some pictures of the box from different angles.

I hired a mason to do the stucco since I am not that excited about getting on the roof. We agreed on a price ($900) and that it will be a three coat system. The box itself will be smooth stucco, but where there are small sections of the existing walls he would match the texture (Spanish Lace).

He applied the scratch coat on the afternoon of day 1. Then he came back the next morning for a few hours for the brown coat. Then four days later he came back to put on the texture.

This is the result.

I have a three questions.

(1) The texture does not match. You can see what I have existing and what's new. I have another project where I did some texture matching at the same house (but at the ground level so I didn't have to stand on the roof), and I think I did better. Should a pro be able to do a better match? I am debating whether to grind the texture off and try it myself.

(2) Does a three coat system include three coats? I thought a three coat system is the scratch coat, then a brown coat, then a finish coat. The texture is not a coat right? The mason told me the box itself is smooth, so a three coat system includes two coats. The existing wall patch area gets three coats and the texture is the third coat. Am I right or is he right? A smooth texture stucco includes only two coats because the final texturing is the third coat?

(3) After the brown coat was applied, there was a four day period before the texture. During those days I went up there twice a day and misted down the walls. There were no cracks. Once the texture was applied, I can see over a dozen cracks developing very quickly even with me misting them. The walls are exposed to full sun. Is this because the texture was applied too long after the brown coat was put on so it dries and shrink quickly?

A three coat stucco consist of a scratch coat , than a brown coat & a finish coat this is the texture coat also.
As for how it should have been applied.
As per ASTM C-926-08 " X1.4.2.1 The timing between coats will vary with climate conditions and type of plaster base. Temperature and relative humidity extend or reduce the time between consecutive operations. Cold or wet weather lengthens and hot or dry weather shortens the time period. Moderate changes in temperature and relative humidity can be overcome by reducing the absorption of the base by per-wetting during hot or dry weather."
For a better intimate contact & bond between coats & to reduce rapid water loss, the second coat should be applied as soon as the first coat is sufficiently rigid to resist cracking. Th finish coat can be applied as soon as 12 hours after the second coat was applied & sometimes sooner.
Small patches should be keep moist it is best to cover with a damp cloth than plastic & keep the humidity above 70% for no less than 24 Hrs.
The Plaster and Drywall Systems Manual states under certain conditions it may mean applying both first & second coats in a single day or even a short delay or even no delay.
As for the texture matching an sample should have been a approved before the texture coating was applied.

 

Thank you clarence, does that mean for a smooth finish, like this box is, there is no need to apply a third coat if the brown coat is already kind of smooth? Or should I still put on a third coat myself over the brown coat?

On the texture over the existing wall, the scratch coat was put on Thursday afternoon, the brown coat on Friday morning. Nothing was done since Friday at noon till Tuesday morning except my getting up there twice a day with a sprayer to mist the fresh stucco. Then on Tuesday the texture was done. If I want to remove the texture now and redo it, is it best to use a grinder to grind it off, then apply a thin layer of smooth finish coat like 1/16" thick, then put on the texture right after?

I remember in a previous thread I had to do this finish texture, at the time your instructions to me was to use a stiff brush, and dip that into the stucco mix that's mixed thinner than typical, then stand back about 18" or so and fling the mix from the brush to the wall, and wait a few minutes then gently trowel over. I can try that again as it worked pretty good last time, wasn't perfect but it was way better than what the pro did here.

 

You can apply a finish coat over the brown coat for a smoother finish I would use a green sponge float for a fine sand finish. Make sure that the brown coat has moisture applied before the finish coat is applied.
As for removing the existing texture you should use a side grinder to cut score score lines to a depth of the brown coat DO NOT GO PAST THE BROWN COAT WHEN CUTTING THESE LINES.
Cut score lines
Score lines should be one inch apart vertical & one inch horizonal than use a hammer & chisel to remove the one inch squares.
As for using the masons brush to apply the texture it should match the existing texture pretty close.
The closer you are to the surface when applying the dash coat the heaver it will be the further back you are will decrease the texture. In your location make sure you keep the humidity above 70% if you have a timer for your garden hose put it on the roof & set it to mist every 3 to 4 hours for one min. or less. Set timer to repeat 8 times per day. If you can find an april shower spray head @ your garden shop get one it will put out a very fine mist & not floor the area.