I'm not a plumber, but I think it's a good idea.

I tried a saddle valve on my fridge supply line (it came with the fridge.) What a mistake!

I sweated a T into a conveniently located water line and hooked up to that. The water flowed more than twice as fast after that. Yes, I did actually time it, before and after.

 

No license here either, but have had to replace a few of those pieces of fecal matter before.

Yes they restrict your flow to the refrigerator, the little piece that is pierced out of the main line is still in there attached by a tiny bit of material, catching anything that tries to flow by, accumulating more and more particles until the line is so restricted that the flow is drastically reduced.

Installing a T fitting is fairly easy, and don't need a plumber unless you are not able to get to it, or cannot solder or thread, or cut the line, depending on which line you have.

Those things are a poor designed trash.


ED

 

Saddle valves are against building codes in some of the municipalities here. They are also used for humidifiers. The biggest problem is that if something goes wrong and you end up with a leak, they will seldom close and actually seat. I always replace them with Tees with a ball valve. It's a combo fitting, which can be sweat, compression, or push-on. The 1/4" or 3/8" branch is usually compression. They take very little time to install, and give me peace of mind after walking away. The ball valves also do a much better job at regulating flow then the saddle valve. (important for humidifiers, not so much for fridges.)

Cheers!

 

It's a combo fitting, which can be sweat, compression, or push-on.

Very good point. Just because I have the stuff lying around, and actually enjoy doing it, I sweated my "T" in. You'd do just as well with a Sharkbite or similar compression "T" and avoiding the plumber's fee.

And thanks for mentioning the ball valve, I should have said that, too.

 

I agree with the above^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ but, saddle valves have functioned pretty well thru time, and I would not loose sleep over it tonight.:wink2:

If it's convenient, I'd do it.... if you have to call a plumber at a service charge and $100/hour, I'd live with the $7 valve.

 

Thanks for adding that. I agree. It's not an emergency. It's a addon to another call, or a diy project for a lazy weekend.

Cheers!

 

most codes have outlawed saddle tap valves
there is always a possibility of being grandfathered in...

the bigger code issue is there shall be a control valve
accessible on same floor level with fixture/appliance
so install an in-line ball valve at/behind refrigerator

Peace

 

Code or not, I wouldn’t want the only shut of valve behind the appliance. It’s all I can do to wrestle the fridge out of its slot, my wife could never do it. Valve would be nearly useless in the event of leak. Should be in accessible place on the same floor. In my case not. The fridge is now where near the sink. The line comes from the basement and that is where the ball valve is. Not code, but useable.

 

Replace it when you get time. Saddle valves suck and cause nothing but trouble down the road. Tee in a stub with a regular valve and 1/4 inch copper to the fridge. Don't waste your time on the plastic crap. You will hear many people reply that plastic is OK but my advice is soft copper. After many years and many installs I know by replacing lots plastic tubing and saddle valves.
COMMENTS. OH, he's dated we don't do that anymore. I do and it's proven to work. Listen to the buzzard.

 

I already posted once, I agree with you, here.

Those saddle valves, and the cheap plastic, are for suckers, that want to pay and pay again for something.


ED