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Shoe rack build how to configure box's.

2.4K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  ratherbefishing  
#1 ·
I am making a shoe rack with seat on top.
See attached drawing for what I am doing.
(drawing not to scale, not even close:LOL:)
The 1/2in and 5/8in ply is what I have on hand, the 5/8in mdf I will be getting.
Where I am putting the 1/2in ply for partitions is where I am confused.
If I make the bottom row and attach the the sides and partitions to the top and bottom mdf piece.
How to build the next row?
I can't nail from the underside of the bottom row into the partition piece.
I will be gluing and brad nailing.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
If you cut nice tight dados, glue should be enough; otherwise PVA (typical wood glue) has very little gap-filling properties. Either a dado blade or several passes with a regular blade, careful adjustments and a good fence. Brads can help hold the joints together until everything cures. Having a back on it will help keep it rigid.
 
#8 ·
Cut grooves about 1/8 deep on one sheet. Straight edge, square and circular saw. Cut the edges of the groove with circular saw and kerf cuts to remove the middle. If yes on router, you can free hand the middle. Faster. Then cut the boards into the pieces you need. Cutting grooves at once makes aligning automatic.
With raw face ply/mdf, your idea of just gluing the partitions should work. You could reinforce with glazing points. Square and reinforce with back panel.

 
#11 ·
BTW, cubicle design is cute but not at all necessary. If only for shoes, also about 6" is all you need except for boots. From experience, I would build a 30" wide or so seat with one or two shelves and put a small cheap bookcase next for all the shoes. Use kreg shelf clip hole jig for extra holes and cut extra shelves. Seat or the legs should be deep enough so it doesn't tip.
 
#12 · (Edited)
As mentioned, I'd use a router. Cut six 1/8" x 1/2 "dadoes across the width of the MFD 4 x 8 sheet then on the T S rip the 4 shelves to width , probably 11-1/2" wide to allow for T S kerf so there would be a narrow scrap piece. Then flip 2 shelves over ( middle shelves ) and route the other side ( bottom side ) of those 2 middle shelves for verticals. Make yourself or purchase several corner squaring squares that can be clamped to hold everything square as you assemble. Cut and assemble the 2 ends last.
 
#17 ·
Brainstorming here.

I wonder if the cubby holes would be strong enough with a half depth slot from the front on the verticals and half depth from the back on the horizontals. Assemble like the dividers in a case of wine. Slide into the box or assemble the box around it with rabbet joints. For sitting on it, solid stock top and 2x2 legs. The box could be attached with screws from the inside and serve as the stringers for the legs.