[Fire4Effect]

It's unusual to have problems with FLAT paint on a level 5 skim coated finish, so, I agree with Chris that an application problem is the cause here. Also, heat pools at a ceiling so if it was a hot day, the paint dried almost as fast as it was put on. I don't use SuperPaint on ceilings, I usually use Promar 200 or 400 as they are more of a DEAD flat. PPG also makes a great flat ceiling paint, although this info is little help to you now. Pics would help.

The current plan is for them to come back and spray with a so called enamel tip without back rolling. We are open to using a different ceiling paint that is dead flat. I will try and post a photo tomorrow of the striping. Which PPG flat ceiling paint are you referring to?

 

[Fire4Effect]

Here are two photographs of the striping (banding). It was difficult to capture due to overcast lighting from outside.

Here are a few photographs of the walls. There are no roller marks and the painter was able to apply a nice consistent finish with the 1/4” nap roller sleeve.

 

[Fire4Effect]

So far there are lots of different opinions. I would like to talk with Rbriggs82 over on Paint Talk since he had a similar problem with a ceiling using Superpaint, but that forum is only for professional painters.

Today I received e-mails from two licensed painting contractors who have seen the job before it was painted.

This first comment is from the painter who also saw the initial striping from the first application of two coats of S-W flat Superpaint. They are recommending KM #1005 flat paint for a dead flat paint.

“I have a sneaky suspicion that it’s the paint, its so reminiscent of the striping I had experienced with another one of S-W products. My suggestion is to use seal grip primer from BM and use a different paint.”

This is the comment from the second painter:

“I don't use a lot of super paint flat. So I don't know a lot about it. My favorite flat paint is Kelly Moore's 550. My only suggestion would be to make sure that the tip on the spraygun is new so it won't streak. When the tip is knew it will not streak. When the tip is old are worn out it will streak and stripe. So many painters these days try to get as many gallons out of the tip that they can. That is the only thing that I can recommend. You should not have that problem when you back roll, though. I am really lost on that large ceiling. I have never seen anything like this in my whole 43 years of painting.”

 

[Fire4Effect]

What it looks like to me is regular old flashing caused by back and forth rolling, with no overlap to ensure the final strokes all went the same way.

I was not in the room when they were back rolling. I understand your point about back and forth rolling. I will ask about this. You might be on to something.

 

[Fire4Effect]

Assuming that the walls and ceiling were skimmed with equal quality and the same colour was used on both, but the only difference is brand type and sheen. I'm wondering about the formula of that colour. "Cool" tends to have a hint of blue where I'm from and blue tint has a sheen to it. If the tints used have sheen mixed in with a dead flat base this can sometimes cause those mysterious up/down marks seen against a window reflection. BM ultimate used to have this issue frequently years ago before Aura.
Mix often, change ceiling colours, change sheens, change brands, roll one way, put up texture, lower the room temperature, alter techniques of application. Lots of good choices.

Good luck and hope it all works out.

This is the color we are using:

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...owners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW7551-greek-villa/

 

[Fire4Effect]

I am still waiting to hear back from my painter and the Sherwin-Williams rep. I will pass everyone's comments along to my painter. Thanks so much for your input and I will followup if we are successful with the repaint.

 

[Fire4Effect]

I am not a painter, but I believe a significant part of the problem is flat Superpaint with a slight sheen combined with a very smooth ceiling and large windows illuminating the ceiling. I see some here have had the same problem. Our painter wants to try and spray and back roll again with an 18” roller this time and possibly with another paint. I am thinking of trying Sherwin Williams Eminence flat ceiling paint tinted to Greek Villa to match our walls instead of the flat Superpaint that use used previously.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...iams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/eminence-high-performance-ceiling-paint

Maybe we should add Latex X-tender or Floetrol to keep the paint from drying too fast.

 

[Fire4Effect]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. The general consensus is to not use Sherwin Williams Eminence. Looks like we will try spraying flat Superpaint again and back roll with an 18" 1/4" nap roller sleeve. I will post the results after the ceiling is painted.


BTW, I have not received and e-mail notifications when someone has responded to this thread. I just check once a day to see if there are any responses.

 

[Fire4Effect]

I still think 1/4" roller is part of the problem. This is a fairly large ceiling and 1/4" is a very short nap roller. When the sprayer guy goes across the ceiling what tip he uses will determine how much paint he is putting on. Then the one following comes along with this short nap roller, before he gets half way across it's full of paint. Now it can't do it's job, this can cause stripping.

Move up to a 1/2" roller cover and scrap the excess paint out of it with a 5n1 tool after a couple of trips across the room. If this is a re-paint with stipple already on the ceiling it may not need to be back rolled.

You need to subscribe to a thread to get notifications (I think)

Thanks, I will talk with the painter about your suggestions.

Regarding notification, I am subscribed.

 

[Fire4Effect]

Does anyone have an opinion on Kelly Moore 550 flat paint for the ceiling? I would have it tinted to match the wall color. My painter is suggesting this.

 

[Fire4Effect]

1/2 nap + masterhide = problem solved.

Unfortunately Masterhide is not available in California.

 

[Fire4Effect]

I still think 1/4" roller is part of the problem. This is a fairly large ceiling and 1/4" is a very short nap roller. When the sprayer guy goes across the ceiling what tip he uses will determine how much paint he is putting on. Then the one following comes along with this short nap roller, before he gets half way across it's full of paint. Now it can't do it's job, this can cause stripping.

Move up to a 1/2" roller cover and scrap the excess paint out of it with a 5n1 tool after a couple of trips across the room. If this is a re-paint with stipple already on the ceiling it may not need to be back rolled.

You need to subscribe to a thread to get notifications (I think)

What size spray tip do you recommend?

 

[Fire4Effect]

I would probably go with a Graco X 410 this is a smaller tip an 8" fan and be sure to overlap 50%. With the smaller tip you can move a little slower so you can watch your overlap and build a little better.

Thanks, I really appreciate all the feedback. I will pass this information along to the painter. We just need to decide upon a paint now.

 

[Fire4Effect]

We repainted the ceiling yesterday with Benjamin Moore Ultra Flat Ceiling Paint. The painter sprayed first and back rolled using an 18” roller sleeve with a 3/8” nap. The paint dried dead flat with one coat eliminating the striping of the Sherwin-Williams flat Superpaint. Unfortunately, about 45 minutes later 8 bubbles formed of varying sizes.

The Benjamin Moore Ultra Flat Ceiling Paint appears to be a very good dead flat ceiling paint, but we are perplexed as to why the bubbles formed. The underlying Superpaint was applied two weeks ago and the spray lines were purged of any water before spraying. The bubbles predominately appeared in the last half of the 14’ x 24’ ceiling. I will remove the bubbles, repair the surfaces and ask the painter to apply the Benjamin Moore Ultra Flat Ceiling Paint again.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why the bubbles may have formed?

 

[Fire4Effect]

Usually when that has happened to me (bubbles) I attribute it to drywall dust, or some other contaminant on the original surface. Something about that final coat drying pulled loose some areas that weren't bonded well to begin with.

It happened to me on a repaint last week actually. Sometimes they will go away in a day or so. Might want to cut them out and fix them, but then your into doing the whole ceiling again. If they go back down on there own, they will probably stay down. At least till the next paint job maybe.

There should not be any contaminates on the ceiling. No work has been done in the room since the last repaint two weeks ago.

I will give it a few days, but there are several bubbles I do not believe will go completely flat. It will be interesting to see the underlying surface when I remove the bubble’s skin.

 

[Fire4Effect]

I was meaning under the original coat. Usually when it bubbles like that its down all the way to Sheetrock. Hopefully you won't have to find out.

I cut open a bubble this morning and see all the paint layers separated from the drywall skim coat. Interesting that this did not happen on the first two paintings of the ceiling. I guess each repaint softens the paint all the way to the skim coat and if there is dust a bubble can form from the weight of the wet paint.

I remember when this painter first arrived I asked him if the skim coated ceiling needed to be dusted off before priming. He told me no because the pressure from the sprayer would blow off the drywall dust.

Since this paint is dead flat I am wondering if I can cut out the bubbles, repair the surfaces, and do a touch up without having them spray and back roll the entire ceiling again.

 

[Fire4Effect]

Tip shear can be a problem when trying to touch up a sprayed finish. Being forced through a spray tip often changes the paints sheen slightly. It having been back rolled does help, and its not always a big deal with flat. But with your lighting conditions I wouldn't count on perfect touch up. At least as 'perfect' as what you seem to be looking for.

I appreciate the feedback. I will start repairing the bubbles tomorrow and try and paint one with a 3/8" nap roller sleeve to see how it looks. Any pro tips for touch up in this situation?