You can still get flip covers, but in-use covers are superior if you're OK with the "bubble" look. Also, not necessary to replace with GFCI if the circuit is on a GFCI breaker (which are admittedly hard to come by these days). If the boxes are still weatherproof I don't see why you couldn't reuse them.

 

First determine what all is on the circuit(s). 1970 tells me that they may be on the kitchen circuit. Whatever circuit they are on, you only need 1 GFCI for the individual circuit. You may be able to put the GFCI on an inside plug if they are daisy chained. Less of a likelihood water could damage it and have to buy a $15 plug instead of a $1 plug if the outside one gets damaged.
You will not be likely to find simple flip covers any more. Code requires hooded ones. They do make a low profile telescoping type. This is so, if you have something in, it is still protected from rain.

 

You will not be likely to find simple flip covers any more. Code requires hooded ones. They do make a low profile telescoping type. This is so, if you have something in, it is still protected from rain.

The heck you say.

 

Thanks for the input on the options. Makes sense to put a GFCI outlet indoors as early in the circuit as possible, the GFCI breaker isn’t an option with a pushmatic panel (for now). I don’t believe it’s on the kitchen circuit, likely shared with some indoor outlets in a living area.

Regarding boxes - this is what I found after removing the trim plate. What specific solution would anyone recommend given this situation?

 

Regarding boxes - this is what I found after removing the trim plate. What specific solution would anyone recommend given this situation?

I'm not going to soft peddle this so brace yourself. You really do need to replace those badly rusted boxes. When a box is supplied through Armored Cable or metal raceway the boxes are part of the Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC) of the receptacle. when the connections between the cable/raceway and the box is corroded the continuity of the EGC is lost and the receptacles become dangerous to use because the EGC sleeve of the receptacle is not longer connected to the Service Disconnecting Means (SDM) and there is no low impedance pathway for current leaking from an electric appliance which has a grounding pin on it's cord back to it's source in the utility transformer so as to cause the circuits Over Current Protective Device (OCPD) to open and safely de-energize that tool or appliance. That means that a fault could energize the normally non-current carrying parts on the exterior of the tool or appliance until a pathway back to the source occurs by some other pathway. If that pathway were to be through a member of your family they may suffer an electric shock injury or be electrocuted. It only takes 3/100dreths of an amp passing through your body to stop your heart. It takes even less with infants, toddlers, and the elderly. That accidental return pathway doesn't have to be a particularly good one to injure or kill!

One way to replace those boxes is to undue the cable connector and push it back out of the box and into the wall. Then you can pry the box loose or, since it is a gangable sectional box, pry it apart with a large flat tipped screwdriver and remove the parts. Once you remove the parts prying the nails out of the bracket or the back of the box will be easier. Using a hardened pair of diagonal cutting pliers you can cut the nails near the end which goes into the stud and remove the now unfastened box from the wall.

With the rusted box gone you will have a couple of options depending on the conditions you discover inside the wall. Obviously you are able to get at the back of at least one of the boxes so any that are like that will be easier to rewire. To replace the boxes try an old work box in that opening and see if it will fit well enough to hold either with it's built in wall clamping wings or with Madison Straps.

The plastic box is only included to show another type of wing to hold the box in the wall. unless you go to the trouble of finding a plastic box with the internal bonding strap plastic boxes are not acceptable for use with Type AC Armored Cable. If only were Type MC cable there would not be an issue.

I f there is enough cable to reach the face of the siding consider replacing the flush box with a surface mounted weather proof box.

Any receptacle outlet that is expose to precipitation must be listed as weather resistant, those are marked WR on the receptacle face, AND have an In Use cover which is rain tight when a cord is plugged into it. There is no way out of both those requirements under the US NEC!

--
Tom Horne

 

I'd just replace them.....but my main concern would be that PUSHMATIC......is your system fully grounded,

 

Fully grounded? Everything is grounded back to the panel via EMT and it’s strapped to the galvanized plumbing in the basement. What are the “them” you would replace, just the outlets and new in-use covers?

 

Yes....I'd just replace the old outside receps , GFi'm, either individually or with one in "series", and unless you expect to have them in use during inclement weather, I'd just buy new outside covers like you presently have.

Are you in Chicago by chance...?

 

Okay, sounds good. I’ll replace the outlets themselves and GFCI them one way or another. I’ll grab a couple cover types and see how they fit. Greater Chicago area, yes.

Edit: ran Christmas lights off one of them last year, so should probably go with the in-use covers.

 

Outdoor GFCIs can cause trouble over time due to moisture getting in. Make sure you get weather resistant GFCIs. I would use a bubble type cover and seal the joint between the cover plate and the siding as well as possible.

 

I would not leave the new GFCI's unprotected from the weather. Once you open the flip cover and plug something in, the flip cover becomes useless. Using an "in Use" bubble cover can be mounted sideways or vertical and the opening of the bubble adjusted likewise.

TAYMAC N3R Extra Duty Polycarbonate Clear 1-Gang Weatherproof In-Use Electrical Outlet Cover for Outdoor Outlet, UFAST 16-in-1 MM420C - The Home Depot

This extremely durable TAYMAC Weatherproof In-Use Cover, Clear provides the best protection for your outdoor device applications. Extra duty rated.

www.homedepot.com

 

The gfi, if installed outside should be marked WR for weather resistant.

 

Thanks for all the detail! I'll take the outlets out and examine the boxes more closely over the next couple days and post back here. I'm not opposed to replacing the boxes - the one is reachable from inside as previously shown, and the other might have an interior outlet/box directly opposite and possibly access from a crawlspace.

 

Or, just run a ground wire from recep to box and from box down the pipe to the next box with integrity. There's no rule against doubling EMT's grounding with a ground wire also.

 

Just wanted to provide an update because I finally got around to replacing this. I used an in-use cover and WR/TR/GFCI outlet - the metal box wasn’t very rusty at all so I left it in place. It was mostly the outlet that was in terrible shape. I grounded to a ground screw on the back of the box, but forgot to run a separate ground through the EMT to the next outlet. I figure this is the end of a run and is GFCI protected, so it should be fine.

 

delete

Didn't read all of the thread.