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Replacing exterior sheathing

19K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  ThatDaveGuy  
#1 ·
Ok, this will probably be the first of many from me, so I guess I'll take it a bite at a time.

Where we stand now: 1950 home, bought this year, bone-rattlingly cold. Our primary goal is making it to the spring when time, weather and funding will allow the fixin' to begin. So far I have been checking/replacing/adding to existing caulking, weatherstripping, attic insulation, etc, just the basics where I can. The first big problem is that the exterior walls are 100% insulation free. An attractive lil holesaw job through the dining room wall verified this, the wall cavities are empty. Too big, too expensive to address now but this to me has to be the first issue addressed come spring.

Existing exterior is old beatup aluminum siding with deteriorating sheathing beneath, so my plan is to tear off the exterior shell, fill walls w/ fiberglass from the outside, go with OSB, foam, Tyvek and new siding. Considering the age and condition of the original sheathing, plus some of the fascia boards that I can see, water damage is a concern so I want to know what is going on inside the walls.

What I'd like to hear some opinions on is specific materials and techniques. My "rough draft" plan so far involves coated deck screws instead of nailing, 3/4" OSB instead of 1/2" just to add additional strength/rigidity to walls that could use it, lavish use of builder's tape on any seams, etc. I tend towards overkill because I would rather spend the extra time, effort and money up front to make it as strong as possible.

A few questions:

A: Considering using LiquidNails for OSB~> studs in addition to screws, any downside? Not only would this add additional connection between the two continuously, but would help close any gaps inside the wall that I will not be able to access until I get to the "now tear out and replace the inside of the wall" stage.

B: Is there any way to NOT have too remove/remount the windows? I expect I will have to but I used cans of sprayfoam filler around them and they will be just extra fun to remove now.

C: While I would like to maximize the foamboard thickness for insulation, how do I address the wall/window meeting if the thickness changes?

D: I keep Googling up arguments about Tyvek vs felt, anyone care to wade in there? Is there any advantage to using both in some permutation, as in OSB/felt/foamboard/Tyvek? (My life would be so much easier if that sprayfoam insulation wasn't quite so pricey)

E: Sheets of foamboard vs fanfold? Price is a consideration but the additional fact that the fanfold is continuous so I have fewer seams.

Any input up to and including "siddown and shaddup Dave!" welcomed. I am still in the planning/pricing stage so this is when I want to make any changes and get a firm design plan.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum!

I'll touch on a few points;

No OSb, anywhere, if you want the best. It drys sloooowly; http://bct.nrc.umass.edu/index.php/...ex.php/publications/by-title/choosing-between-oriented-strandboard-and-plywood/

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...bility&ei=n5ryTN62MIWcsQOe6bHHCw&usg=AFQjCNFJ2MdFsnNbhi5K0LFgRmKEJSz4eA&cad=rja

Don't want it with SPF, rigid board would be similar, to me; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu....com/documents/insights/bsi-038-mind-the-gap-eh/?searchterm=foam board in walls

Shear walls, nails-- not screws, just tighten the pattern rather than thicker material: http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publications/by-title/insulating-on-the-outside/
Notice the house designs with shear flow for stronger: http://www.awc.org/pdf/WFCM_90-B-Guide.pdf

Sounds like vinyl?

Gary
 
#3 ·
Gary, thank you for the excellent reply! Those are some outstanding links and exactly the type of information I look for to integrate into what I already have.

The article on airgap behind the cladding is especially well rendered, along with the material suggestions they offered. That is the kind of thing that I was looking for, relatively simple and lowcost in overall terms that pays off in the long run.

I have read quite a bit recently on OSB vs plywood, and have seen comments about edge swelling/sealing of cut edges, etc., but as much as we don't want it to cost still wiggles its way into those equations. That is specifically why I was looking at OSB sheathing in conjunction with outer foam layer and my ? about multiple weather barriers.

In several instances I have already run into rusted/corroded fasteners in the outer shell due to poor sealing and weather intrusion, that's why I was considering the heavy coated deck screws as opposed to nailing, but I understand the strength differentials/ shear capacities involved with those fasteners. That was the basis of my comment on using a construction adhesive in addition, to try and attain a tighter bond between sheathing and studs to mitigate some of the shear issues w/ screws as opposed to nails. I am still concerned what I will find when I finally do tear the walls open.

The overall structure seems to have suffered minimal to no settling, racking, etc. The original lath-and-plaster walls have that advantage in that they are so rigid they readily show any movement, so I am thinking that most if not all of the sound I get in windy conditions is movement of the original tongue and groove exterior sheathing being pulled by the siding, etc.

The one constant theme I have seen is meticulous attention to taping, sealing and caulking each and every possible seam, joint or pathway and the readily available range of materials that not too long ago were strictly commercial products will be a plus.

And I was planning on vinyl siding, I like the sound of the properties of the insulated type in terms of noise mitigation, additional insulation, impact resistance, etc., but we'll have to see what the budget allows there. My primary concern is the reconstruction of the wall itself. I would rather go back later and reside with upgraded material in a later budget cycle than be forced to address any of the underlying construction again.
 
#4 ·
Water will go through ply almost twice the rate as OSB. “There are more differences in hygroscopic properties between OSB and plywood and fiberboard, especially the vapor permeability and moisture diffussivity. As shown in Table below, the value of vapor permeability of a OSB board is one magnitude less than the wood and much less than that of the plywood panels. Using of OSB as wall sheathing is essentially adding a vapor barrier at the outside layer of the envelope in addition to the inside barrier.” From; http://alcor.concordia.ca/~raojw/crd/essay/essay000129.html So not only does it take way longer to dry than ply but the moisture leaving the house stops or is absorbed by OSB. As long as you control indoor humidity and the outside never gets wet, you will be fine.

If you must use OSB, install a high perm house wrap (+24 perms) or you will get mold if ever a leak or excessive indoor humidity, (with no interior vapor barrier); http://repository.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/4625/ESL-HH-04-05-25.pdf?sequence=4

Using the foam alone as a WRB, flashing the window head, use of tape on joints, and “reflections of windows on vinyl” at the bottom of page; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/using-rigid-foam-water-resistive-barrier

The importance of a WRB; http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...F_PWmKNdIjnTKoa6Ihii7ESkZbL0ue-5uHWO8aAe&sig=AHIEtbTHa3XRIv3GvYAMWrZBbBZoIUXgxw

Table #3 for nailing of a 130mph wind; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_sec002_par005.htm


If you must use glue under the sheathing, it's up to you. At least use hot-dipped galv. nails on sheathing, if worried about strength with rotting... Here are some assorted sites on your topics; http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...M_umtIeSZmdHoAm_ktOMmUW0gz058NogMVrQOxU1&sig=AHIEtbTOQnwOAP4_Jg3zRvUBSlz4b5thmA


http://www.dickseibert.com/martin.pdf


http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-buy-choose-fiberglass-insulation-90438/



Gary
 
#5 ·
I'd go with half inch plywood, better than OSB

No reason to use 3/4 for wall sheathing, that is typically used for subfloor's, etc.

Use nails at the proper spacing, is probably actually code in your area. Make sure they are galvanized. This is not the right application for screws, not to mention it will take forever.

Shouldn't need to remove windows, if they are flanged just pull out one side at a time.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies, you are the link wizard Gary :thumbup:

My biggest reason for even asking any of this is that building to code, especially where I am since it has been "modified" to make it more builder friendly, seems more like a minimum rather than optimum. I am looking for ways to add whatever strength/increased life possible to this along wiith upgrading from the run-of-the-mill 1950's construction. The more I investigate the more seemingly complex it is in terms of the interactions of materials, the behavior of water/moisture in all its sneaky forms, etc. It is not as simple as "water=bad, no water= good", the walls have to be almost organic in their ability to shed water, breathe vapor and restrict airflow simultaneously, and the range of materials and techniques available now as opposed to 10 or 15 ago makes it even more complicated. It makes me wonder whether active interior humidity monitoring and control might just be worth it.

I appreciate the feedback and expect to make you regret it by coming back with more stupid questions later :laughing: