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Replacing carpet covering asbestos tiles with wood

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5.2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Half-fast eddie  
#1 ·
It has been confirmed that these tiles are asbestos and I think it would be best to cover them rather than remove them. The tiles are covering half of the upstairs of my home. Currently they are covered by carpet that is worn out and past its prime. Because of dust allergies and pets I would like to have no carpets in my house. Since these are bedrooms, wood is the ideal replacement, but I'm not sure what needs to go between the wood and the tiles. I would like to put down plywood but don't know how that could be done without disturbing the tiles. I also want to add as little height and weight as possible. (I am ok with shaving the bottom of my doors off if necessary.)

I really do not like the look and feel of any kind of vinyl plank or laminate wood materials and just want to have plywood. I am thinking of cutting the plywood to make large "tiles" that are designed to look appealing geometrically, but I don't know if I need to put something down like OSB to act as a subfloor before I do that.

The other problem is that the asbestos tiles have already been stapled and nailed by whoever installed the carpet, and I will avoid taking any of those out. I will have to remove the padding, since its way too soft and thick to go over. (It is 13mm stainmaster memory foam.) I think I can cut around the staples and avoid them, since there aren't that many - about 1 staple per every 4 sqft. The tack strips are more complicated, as they are nailed into the tiles. I think I will just leave the 1/4" tack strips and incorporate them into a subfloor structure somehow. Maybe add 1/4" of something to fill the gaps, I don't know. The idea is that the tack strips might provide me with just enough material to put very short nails or screws in to keep stuff from shifting around.

I anticipate needing a lot of glue for doing something like this. It seems like the tiles are in good enough condition that sealing them with redgard or epoxy would be overkill, so I thought maybe felt or rosin paper will be enough.

How should I go about doing this, and what do i need to avoid when it comes to putting new material down? Considering nails and screws are not an option, how would I glue in something without making new problems?
 
#2 ·
Square of plywood could be interesting. Have you considered 3/4” osb? Cut into say 24” squares, sand the face well, slight chamfer on the edge, several coats of good clear finish. Seal all 4 edges and both sides with a coat or 2 before installing, add more coats on top for wearability. Countersunk brass screws at each corner. You could use a thin layer of adhesive troweled on with a very small v-notch trowel.

Nothing wrong with running screws through the tiles, you arent going to disturb enough to worry about. If you have sealed the back of the ply or osb, you could give the tile a light squirt of water just before laying the wood, that would keep any drilling dust contained.
 
#6 ·
Square of plywood could be interesting. Have you considered 3/4” osb? Cut into say 24” squares, sand the face well, slight chamfer on the edge, several coats of good clear finish. Seal all 4 edges and both sides with a coat or 2 before installing, add more coats on top for wearability. Countersunk brass screws at each corner. You could use a thin layer of adhesive troweled on with a very small v-notch trowel.

Nothing wrong with running screws through the tiles, you arent going to disturb enough to worry about. If you have sealed the back of the ply or osb, you could give the tile a light squirt of water just before laying the wood, that would keep any drilling dust contained.
i was reading some people apply shaving cream or something thick to their screws to keep things from flying around as they get drilled into the tiles. I feel like there must be a way to do it that would not cause problems upon installation, but if anything ever needed to come out or be replaced I wouldn't want to have made things worse by damaging the tiles. So I am more concerned about the future than the present...

I have considered OSB if i go with painting. I originally thought cutting tiles out of plywood would look good but I am more of a painter than a woodworker so it would be easier to just paint a design rather than cut and stain the wood. I'm not sure if the money saved by going for OSB will be worth the effort it will take to get a smoother surface in the end. It's not a big enough space to make a huge difference in cost but it would be nice to save some money.
 
#4 ·
Pull the staples the asbestos is dangerous when you make a dust cloud and work in for a few years.
Plywood would need to be nailed down and that could cause more trouble than pulling a few staples I would go for a floating floor and the new vinyl that look like laminate would be what i would go for.
How to Install Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring - YouTube
 
#5 ·
To be honest i am not too concerned about the asbestos risks since I think it's not that big of a deal when the proper precautions are taken. However my wife is very paranoid about anything asbestos related so I'm trying to be extra careful to ease her stress.

I want to avoid vinyl because i really don't dig the greyish interior design. But also I want to have a paintable surface like plywood because I am a muralist and want to eventually add some hand painted patterns or designs to the floor. It's a farmhouse from the 1800s so ideally I'm going for a more modern version of traditional painted farmhouse floorboards.
 
#7 ·
You can leave asbestos in place as long as you encapsulate it.
A glue down floor over the asbestos tile would accomplish that.
Nailing or screwing will certainly disrupt the tile.
In a commercial setting with concrete floors, I saw a contractor flood the floor and let it sit overnight and scrape up the tiles.
I pulled my crew out until that farce was over and the floor work was over.
I'm not sure a floating floor would satisfy some AHJ.....but you can always ask.
 
#8 ·
I as thinking osb because a clear coat finish, or light stain, brings out the different pieces of wood. Squares of cabinet grade ply would look good, especially if you paint them.

I was thinking 24x24 squares to emulate tiles, or even linoleum squares from when the house was built. Also easier to install smaller pieces, especially cutting in around corners. And full sheets of ply would look like unfinished construction.