Generally baffles are not repaired with concrete. Their main function is to keep solids from entering the outlet. There are a couple of way to do it, described in the pictures below. Parts can be bought at box stores or at septic stores.

 

Maybe there was a misunderstanding? My risers and lid look very similar to this, but my lid overhangs vs. being an insert:

In image above, would be talking about the top of the riser wall opening that's around the lid. Both my lid and top of the riser are not perfectly seated now, due to minor deterioration of the concrete on both surfaces. I just want to repair the concrete itself and trying to confirm that version of Quikrete with Sika will do a good repair (stuff is advertised as being used on concrete pipe, presumably in sewer applications) and what's a good water ratio to Sika, or should I just use the Sika w/o water?

 

Sika is a brand and they make lots of different products. If you are referring to one perticular product please let us know what it is.

 

We've been picture swapping but you haven't showed us what yours looks like. It is important that we see that in order to give you good information. Risers often don't get damaged as they are not in the wet chamber.

 

Would I use something like Quikrete Quick-setting Cement with a Sika Masonry Bonding Agent? If so, what kind of water to Sika ratio should I use? Think the stuff is 10 or 20 pounds per container, locally, so will be using that. Once finished, I'll seal the risers with some type of sealant, probably asphalt.

Ayuh,..... I'd do it with a bag of type S mortar, or no-shrink hyd. grout,...... 'n no bondin' agent,...

 

This is the filter chamber riser. The moisture on the concrete lip is NOT direct contact with ground or septic water, though the concrete is porous and damp inside, dunno if the wicking is causing it. Guessing it was installed in the early 90's.

Actually, could I just use a cut-off wheel, and remove that narrow lip, making the surface flush with outer rim? Or is there an explosion hazard if it hits the reinforcing wire and sparks?

 

I recently dry packed a block wall around a yard. As @Bondo suggested, I used some type S mortar and no need for a bonding agent after a good pressure washing. I did two bags of that, and then switched over to a product available at Lowe's. I will have to stop by there as I can't find it on the web. It was relatively fast setting, DOT certified for strength properties, but not nearly as fast as jetset. I enjoyed working with it.

 

@skyking1 Thanks, might repair lid underside that way.

I think cutting the 2" lip off the riser with a masonry cut off (4 1/2" wheel should be plenty for that) would be fastest way to deal with this and make the entire surface flush with the lid. Need to know if the final tank with the filter after the aerator tank; is there flammable gases in there? Or is it flammable directly above the aerator?

If I cut the lip off, and hit the exposed concrete reinforcement wire (can see it rusted in pic), it's going to spark. Want to be safe here.

 

I would not remove any of that lip. It's much easier to use it as a form to then patch it with some good material. I will get to Lowe's and give you that product name. It's quite good .
It's good enough that the DOT will use it to patch a bridge surface. I think it was about 27 bucks a bag.

 

Ah ok. So leave it and use as an inner form, then wrap the exterior circumference of the riser with cardboard, and make it flush on the sides and level it on top, essentially making it one solid wall vs. trying to reform just the lip. Then seal the riser and lid, to preserve the repair.

 

simpler than that. you mix this material up with mud gloves in a small bucket, and simply smooth it over the area like you are doing drywall mud. As it gets stiffer, you can stand it right up and form it with a glove. It has a nice cure rate so you just keep working it. Do just reform the lip and use the lid as intended.


There is no need to form it at all.
These are 1'x2'x4' Kelley blocks, and that dry packing is the type S mortar mix. It is a bit too sandy and not as strong as that DOT certified stuff, but I like it too.

These are the joints I was working with.

This stuff will hang right in there and you can get it really smooth. eventually you are smoothing it with a wet brush or glove.

 

Thank you for the pics and info. Now just have to wait for this nasty winter storm to fully go away lol. was (-4 f) yesterday and supposedly back in the upper 50's by end of week. Crazy weather. Thanks again everyone.

 

I finally got to Lowe's and got the name of that product- Fast set All Crete
FastSet™ All-Crete - High Performance Cement

It really is nice to work with, and not too bad @28 a bag. The best feature is the working time. It gives you enough time to get a good finish on it but still technically fast set.
Jet Set and others are cooking off in the bucket.
Check availability at your local Lowe's
https://www.lowes.com/pd/High-Perfo...-by-Quikrete-High-Performance-Cement-by-FastSet-All-Crete-55-lb-Cement/50146054

 

Thank you for the link and following up @skyking1 When weather is a little better, will have a go at it.