I see no mention of a drip flashing - which to me is critical. The shingles should further extend past the drip flashing. I don't follow how the 1x2" is being used. Got a pic?

I have a 63' gutter that I could not get a good slope on, so it was easier to follow the existing crown of the eave and have it drain into a downspout at each end.

 

Definitely no drip flashing was put on the house when it was constructed (yr 2000). I just took some photos. And thank you for replying.

 

You might be able to just eliminate the 1x2,
but it looks like you need to add some "style-D" drip edge.

 

I didn't see your reply Zulu. Thank you!

 

That 1x2 , called a shadow `board was used a lot of times in place of a drip edge, even up the gable ends. You really should be able to remove it and install D style drip edge. And still have the shingles overhang enough.

 

Well that does make sense. I am in the process of getting a new roof replaced. The roofer said that it would be best to replace the gutters before installing the new roof as the drip edge would then be put into the gutters - which also made sense to me at the time, but when I saw that 1" x 2" board underneath I didn't know if it needed to be replaced. Looks like I need to remove all the old boards, rotted or not, and paint the fascia, then get the new gutters installed before the new roof is put in place. Thank you Randy Bush!

Frank

 

If I we’re getting a new roof, I would remove the fascia board and 1x2 and put on a 2x6 fascia, then cover it with aluminum. Your gutters will not pull loose from a 2x6.

 

Hmmm. I removed the section of the 1" x 6" that had rotted and there is a 2" x 4" that it is attached to. The old gutters went through the 1" x 2", the 1" x 6" and into the 2" x 4". I believe my problem with the gutters started with incorrect pitching of the gutters at the initial installation and over the years water got into the boards through the spikes securing the gutters. I don't think that otherwise they would have sagged. It was pretty difficult to remove the spikes that didn't have a problem when I was removing the gutters. So I think I would be okay by leaving the existing 1" x 6" fascia (attached to the 2" x 4" beneath it) and not replacing with a 2" x 6" fascia. I'll have to look at how to do a DIY installation of aluminum cover over the fascia. I had Leaf Guard do a quote for aluminum covering - came to a little over $4,800. The new roof, which will be a Decra metal roof, requires a 5" metal (rock coated) flashing, which is what will be put into the gutters (as I mentioned above) to keep the water away from the fascia. It sounds like this would mitigate the need for an aluminum covering of the fascia. But, what I just thought of and now doesn't make sense is how they are going to get around the anchors that will be used in the gutter to secure it to the fascia - how will they put the 5" Decra flashing 'inside' of the gutter. I'll have to reach out to the roofing company on that.

Thanks for you input Old Thomas!

 

Also make sure to have the 1x2 removed on the whole house.

 

Yes, I will remove it from the entire house, do some wood fill repairs to the 1" x 6" and then paint. I saw a youtube video where a painter added latex caulk to paint and then applied to the fascia. I am going to look into that some more - seems like, if it works, it also adds a layer or 'water repellent' protection to the fascia.

 

Use "gutter apron" over gutters and style d on any gable ends.

 

gutter apron

Thank you XSleeper. I had to look up what a 'gutter apron' was. It appears that is what is included in the installation of the Decra roofing that I mentioned in one of my replies. But I am reaching out to the roofing company to confirm how all this will work before I get the gutters installed.

 

I did all my fascia boards 3 years ago along with the roof. The 1-by board was toast. I ran fresh 2-by lumber across the ends of the rafters and tied it into the roof sheathing. Then a 'disposable' combed-finish fascia board over top with a metal drip edge.

I refuse to fully wrap wooden fascia in plastic or metal because it never dries out underneath and accelerates rot. (In my climate anyway - southcoast aka PNW for most of you stateside.)

 

If done correctly, there is no need for water to be behind the metal fascia. I have jobs done 20 years ago where have needed to pull the fasica for one reason or the other and the lumber is as solid as the day was installed. A lot of it depends on the roof being right.

 

Could be our dry climate too. All I know is we don't have problems doing it. See a lot of painted boards behind gutters rotten though.