The short answer is you don't calculate the beam size; you hire a structural engineer to calculate it.

The longer answer is that there are too many loads that have to be considered that change based on your location, room size, roof configuration, roof loading, floor loading, etc. There's also the posts/jack studs supporting the beam ends, and foundation support for them, to figure out. The load that was distributed across that 10', will now be concentrated at the ends of the beam, so the foundation has to be able to support those concentrated loads and spread it over a large enough area of the soil under the foundation.

 

No load from the trusses.

 

To many loads to be determined. What is going to hold this beam? What is going to support that post that holds the beam?

 

concrete footings and that was one of the things I was trying to decide a couple of 6 x 6 posts or steel jack posts

 

I know that I need roughly a 11.5" to 14" LVL depending on if it's 3-ply or 4-ply

If you say so. I'm curious, how do you know that?

 

Because I sent all the require information to a place that makes and sells LVL's and they told me it would 3-ply at 14" and if I wanted to do 4-ply at 11.5" I'd have to get a structural engineer. But again didn't want to waste money on one and then find out after it was more then I was looking to spend.

 

No load from the trusses.

Based on the information given, that's an assumption that may or may not be true.

 

Hi,

So I'm looking to remove about a 10ft section from a load bearing Wall in the Basement of a 2 story house and replace it with steel beam or LVL. The floor joists are 14' long and each set at 16" apart and meet above the wall. Wondering how to go about calculating the size of the beams I would need for this and if I should use a Steel or 3 -4 ply LVL. Included some images and besides for the truss design everything else is correct.

Thanks,

Each wall is right above the one below
View attachment 757766

Section I'm look to remove
View attachment 757767 View attachment 757768

What it will look like once I finished... Roughly
View attachment 757770

Rod is right about the footing for a beam.
Your foundation and footing will look like this

And if the beam had been planned for it would be like this with a point load for the beam.

 

Rod is right about the footing for a beam.
Your foundation and footing will look like this
View attachment 757778

And if the beam had been planned for it would be like this with a point load for the beam.
View attachment 757780

It's was planned for a beam, but at the time I was building it I decided to add an apartment and go with a wall instead to create 2 bedrooms. Now I don't want to rent anymore and decided to open up that part of the Basement.

best shot I have of the footings.

 

Because I sent all the require information to a place that makes and sells LVL's and they told me it would 3-ply at 14"

I can't say I'd have that much faith in some supplier, who won't be responsible if stuff starts sagging later on.

 

It used to be, buying the engineered lumber from a lumber yard, I sent the drawing to the manufacturer and its engineering department will send the specs that local inspectors will accept. Looks like you talked to somebody already. Why not ask if the manufacturer will give the specs and ask the building department if it accepts it? If no, then you find a structural engineer.
Footing, try your luck and specify 24"x24"x12" deep footing with 4 half inch rebars. Search how to place rebars, numbers, and add it in. Or if engineer is must, get that spec'd also. Looks like post on outer side may not sit on footing center and that may be something you need to ask.
This is anecdotal only. I used to have a similar house and it had steel i beam and it was about 6" tall. But planning to put second story on it, the beam had to be supported by posts every 4'? No footing needed but new posts were engineered. This was long time ago and the engineering was cheap since he accepted my drawing. Original, I think it was every 8'. So for 10' clear span, you probably have to go with taller steel beam. If you have 8' bsmt, I think you must use lumber no wider than 2x10 size. Try and ask, you have nothing to lose.

 

The smart move is to hire a structural engineer. Where I live the building inspector would require plans approved by a structural engineer before starting the work. The last time I needed to have my plans approved it cost me less than $1,000 and the engineer made some modifications that increased the safety margin.

 

I pulled 2 sets of 2 columns out of my basement when finishing to open up the space. Engineers called for an I-Beam and a C-Channel based on loads and costs. The engineering cost less than $600 including drawings and consultations between my contractor and engineer. Best money spent ever. My contractor stated that he usually doesnt deal with engineers, and usually just puts LVLs in based on his knowledge. He remarked how easily the inspection piece went as the inspector was surprised and pleased to see the stamped engineering dwgs.