Usually you need more studs in that wall , Some times you can get away with cutting out the gap in the top plate and slipping 2x4 down in a 2x6 wall
Small hole at the bottom to tie the bottom of the studs in place.

Or just cut out some drywall and install them.

 

Or make it freestanding.

Add posts and footers near the house, and leave an inch between the porch roof, and the house structure.

easier and probably less cost than tearing out the house to add this.


ED

 

Thanks for the replies. I thought about free standing but I keep hearing i shouldn't put footers that close to the house? Also what do you mean by keep the roof 1" from the house? How would I tie it in to the existing roof?

 

You can add to the footing and foundation and install a post against the house.
I don't know about leaving the roof with a gap.

 

This pic it pretty close to what we are thinking. I understand the free standing option now thank you. I think I would still want to extend the gable in the back of the roof on top of the existing. I wouldn't want it to just cut off right at the front of the house if this makes sense

 

I think a couple drywall repairs would be easier than footings and extra posts.
Can you post a picture of the house.

 

 

WE want to run the new porch from the right side of the door to the left side of the big window

 

Both windows are 5 ft or more so there should be 2 jacks and a king right next to them. They would be good targets for the beams

 

Awesome so these points should be sufficient to support the roof without adding any additional in the wall?

 

That will work, with minimal intrusion into the structure.


ED

 

Now for the warning.

Most municipalities require a permit to do any work to improve your home, even a porch if it attaches to the structure.

And to get a permit, most often they require a detailed plan be included in the application.

So getting an engineer involved is usually the best way, unless you have a little drafting experience, and can draw it up.


ED

 

I am not an engineer. but I would think so.

If it's braced, the axial capacity of each 2x4 is in excess of 5000 lbs. The wall should be fine.

An engineer would likely want to see squash blocks behind the rim joist directly under those studs. So all that load is not just on the rim joist.

Yeah, the bearing area of a 2x stud on a single 2x rim joist is only 1.5"x1.5"= 2.25 sq. inches, and it's perpendicular to the grain for the rim joist (much lower strength than with the grain), so there could be some crushing on the bottom plate or edge of the rim joist without a block to distribute the load from the studs across the bottom plate.

 

If it's braced, the axial capacity of each 2x4 is in excess of 5000 lbs. The wall should be fine.





Yeah, the bearing area of a 2x stud on a single 2x rim joist is only 1.5"x1.5"= 2.25 sq. inches, and it's perpendicular to the grain for the rim joist (much lower strength than with the grain), so there could be some crushing on the bottom plate or edge of the rim joist without a block to distribute the load from the studs across the bottom plate.

The way we do the rim there is only 1" of bearing, we bump it out to match the sheeting. :surprise:

 

Yeah I've been down this road when tearing down a load bearing wall to replace with LVLs.

So I am contemplating either attaching the deck to a ledger or footings with a cantilever setup as suggested above. What makes more sense if I am building the roof to sit on top of the wall? Or does it matter?

 

We did this one with vaulted trusses and just built the one truss to match.
You can do the same thing with rafters.

You can match the height for the gutters or like this you can go higher.
You have to be careful not to over power the house with a big structure out front.
I would land the beams on the wall too.

 

He only included that part above the rim.

Exactly. The overlapping area is only the width of the stud by the width of the rim (well apparently, not even the full width of the rim). You'll get some extra distribution as the load spreads through the bottom plate, but from an engineering standpoint, that is difficult to quantify. With a single rim joist, especially if it's bumped out a 1/2", most of the 3 1/2" depth of the bottom of the stud is only bearing on the bottom plate, which itself is mostly unsupported.

 

Thanks for the insight everyone!