I've done it with no means of cooling the pipe. As long as you're careful not to overheat the pipe, you'll be fine. If you still don't want to risk it, a wet towel will do the trick. The funny thing about those factory stubs they make...I know they tell you not to solder any closer than 16" away from a pex connection, but then they make those stubs about 12" long.:no: :laughing:

I actually like to make my own stubs with copper tubing and drop-ear 90's I stub out the wall and run the copper right down throught the plate/subfloor - it's much easier to secure and make it all come out neat that way, and you don't have that concern when you're ready to do finish.

 

I actually like to make my own stubs with copper tubing and drop-ear 90's I stub out the wall and run the copper right down throught the plate/subfloor - it's much easier to secure and make it all come out neat that way, and you don't have that concern when you're ready to do finish.

Thanks Ishmael, your right...it's odd that they don't live by their own suggestions. Over the night I got to thinking, I could get a sharkebite connector, and after soldering pressure test that run by going to the not yet connected manifold end, shark bite the run to my pressure guage set up and monitor. If it fails....hack the wall open...ugh.....

If I would of thought this through a bit more, next time I would do as you mentioned....thanks, could you get your ideas to me quicker next time? :wink: :thumbsup:

 

Commpresion will alow you to change the stop out easier down the road.

 

True...hadn't considered that benefit...you might be on to something, it would be considerbly easier than "unsweating".

 

They make ssc copper stubs. No solder needed connect support and go.

 

That's what I used, I'm talking about attaching the shut-off valve on the end that sticks through the wall into the cabinet area.