One thing I would never do is paint anything on a deck........spindles included. Just stain them white.
As for SW, they have many versions of their paint........you don't have to buy Duration. There's SuperPaint, A-100, among others that are reasonable in price. If you insist on painting the spindles, be sure to prime them and apply 2 coats of paint, my choice would be SuperPaint.

 

I haven't been happy with the stains. Re-doing every 3 years. I am looking for something that will last a little longer. Plus we are hoping to replace them with trex (eventually)

How much is the super paint and A- 100 paint? (EDIT: contacted local store...superpaint $54.99 and A-100 $41.99) Unfortunately the superpaint is too expensive.

We probably have 80+ feet of railing

So no paint & primer combo?

 

I would see what SW's Woodscapes Acrylic Solid Stain in White (or whatever color you want it tinted) is going for and use it for this. Ben Moore has a comparable product but I never used it before "retiring". I think it is Arborcoat but do not hold me to that. Both are self-priming.

You will not get the life out of a box store paint or solid stain you will from something like Woodscapes so one way or the other you will pay the price difference or more since you will have to do the railing again next year if you use box store product.

You do not want to trust the paint and primer in one hype for this. Especially if you want to milk what longevity you can out of the paint job you should lay down a separate, quality primer coat first---if you paint and do not solid stain. As mentioned, if painting, factor in a primer coat and two coats of finish.

You will probably have to scruff the Restore surface for adhesion of either paint or solid stain as well. I've never put a finish over that stuff so do not know for sure how to advise you to prep. Perhaps the only thing that will work is a high bond primer and two coats.

Obviously you say your exposing the product you pick to the harshest of environments so any product will feel the environment. Just do not be penny wise and pound foolish. I do understand cashflow concerns.

Ask the paint dealer what discount they might extend you (you will not get it if you do not ask), even if neither is running current 40 percent off sales. I think both SW and Ben Moore run some permanent coupon campaigns you can tap with an online search.

 

I would go with SW solid stain on this one! Good luck!

 

Wow, thank you for the input. I think I an going to go the stain route. I have never stained white before. I am a little nervous about that. I purchased a couple of bottles of stripper from HD. I think I will try that first unless you all have better/other ideas.

 

You did not mention stripper in your OP. What kind did you get at the box store in bottles and based on what recommendation? Not minimum wage orange apron I hope. What purpose is that to serve? Are you sure you need it?

Any hints on the Restore packaging for overcoating it?

 

I only got the stripper when i decided to stain instead of painting. No recommendations. I just got some assuming that it would need to be done. The current stain is pretty dark. I assumed that it wouldneed to be removed. Not sure,I think it was the Behr brand or maybe Thompson. Not at home right now. I can check it a little later.

 

If it is stain, I would just scrape/powerwash off anything peeling and sand any rough spots. You will not be able to strip it out of the grain anyhow.

You shouldn't need to strip it unless the Restore left some sort of solid resin, but even then, the Woodscapes or Arborcoat acrylic solid stain should go right over it. You might have to scruff it up a bit if it is glossy? It may take a couple coats of solid stain to cover the dark color on theree now but the product is self-priming (not to be confused with paint and primer in one).

If you have a wax based Thompson's product on there I may have disturbing news for you. That miserable stuff can be a real pain to get rid of and you will need to use a wax stripper (like you would use on a floor) to try and get it out of your way. Then make sure algae and mold did not take hold in or under it. Get rid of that.

 

Okay, nothing is peeling. So that is good news. I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing. So should I buy some sort of cleaner? And pressure wash?

The second deck may be the bad news...it has what I remember as the Thompson water seal. Not sure but something to that affect

 

I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing.

Well that is the advantage of using stain to begin with. You can keep going over it without stripping the last. However, white solid stain will never look quite the same as a paint with sheen.

 

Okay, nothing is peeling. So that is good news. I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing. So should I buy some sort of cleaner? And pressure wash?

The second deck may be the bad news...it has what I remember as the Thompson water seal. Not sure but something to that affect. I believe it was done about the years ago. Any advice on that one?

 

Definitely want to clean what you have. Whether it requires pressure washing is up to you since we cannot see what you have. Obviously, do not use more pressure or water than you need and let it dry out before proceeding with staining. Use the appropriate deck wash. I personally think people go a little crazy with pressure washers when a wet brush/broom and hose would do as good or better job and with less potential damage. Those car wash brush set ups work well on railings. Not saying I would not reach for a pressure washer if the appropriate tool. Never atomize things like ammonia or bleach through a pressure washer!

I would try a gallon of Woodscapes or whatever to make sure it will work as you want. I think you will like it. You should not have problems moving it through your sprayer and I suspect you can thin it some per label instructions. Remember in addition to white and some factory colors you can have it tinted like paint.

As mentioned Thompson's Water Seal is a liquid wax based product. The good news MAY be that you put it on long enough ago it has deteriorated to the point it is no more. The stuff usually only lasts a season or so. If water is still beading at all it means some of the wax remains and all you can try and do is strip it almost like you would a waxed floor and probably with similar solvents. You might want to hit a janitorial supply that sells such stuff cheaper than a box store.

We are just talking solid staining railings and not the decking right? I don't think solid stains (or even porch or floor paints for that matter)---even if the labeling says they will work---a good idea for exposed deck surfaces.

 

Would we be able to use the airless sprayer with the woodScapes?

 

Taking notes...

Okay, I figured out what we used on the other deck. It was Behr. I have attached a picture

 

Not that it matters but here is a pic of a portion of or deck. Sorry sun was coming up

 

This is the one that was done in the Behr

 

Wow, I'm not sure what we are going to do with all of this decking that has to come up...you think someone would buy it?

 

You must have gotten a great deal on Trex to be pulling it up and getting rid of it. You sure you want to do this? It doesn't look to be in such bad shape? Synthetic decking is not without its downsides you know.

 

Put it on CL someone will but it. I would also recommend the SW deck stain. I have used this on my deck for years. I stain mine a light gray and it's good for about 4 years before I have to recoat. All I do is wash it good and roll it on, couldn't be easier.

 

I am going with the SW Woodscapes. They will have 30% off on the 1st.

Unfortunately, it is taking longer than expected to get the deck clean. Grrrr We have about a 1/3 of the pool deck railing stripped. Damn I hate doing these things. That is the major reason I am going with the Trex. Please God dont let there be any issues with the Trex. Yes, we got a good deal. Unfortunately, it will not come with a warranty but we are willing to take the chance.

I do have a question...the stripper lifted the wood fibers. Do I have to sand after or is there another step that will help smooth the wood back down?

That stuff is rough. I have a patch of skin gone on my wrist and a dot on my nose. LOL It ate my skin right off.

Now just to confirm...the second deck (the one that was done last summer with deck restore) just needs a good cleaning and we can stain right over the restore stain?

 

You should sand the raised/checked grain. It will not compress back down.

As mentioned before, I do not know the Restore product well enough to suggest what it might be leaving behind. I would try Woodscapes on a small, clean and prepped section to see if you need to do anything more for adhesion.

 

Okay, we will test it.

Do I need to do a cleaner after the stripper?

 

Still do not know what stripper you used. What does the label say? Does it suggest neutralizing whatever reaction the stripper created?

"When in trouble or in doubt,
Run in circles scream and shout,
Then read the _______ label or manual!"

 

lol- truth.

 

 

Hehe, just read the rest of the label. Yes, i will need to use the cleaner to neutralize. Opps, i posted the wrong picture...

 

 

Here are a couple in progress pictures. It did a good job lifting the old stain.

 

Nice set up, and it seems like the others are answering your questions, what I want to know is what is up with the behind you neighbor's siding? I know that some lenses can bend objects. Is that what's going on, or am I having flashbacks?