[chrisn]

After using a lot of blue tape and newspapers, I was finally ready to spray on the green self-etching aluminum primer from Dupli-color.

As they say, prepping is most of the battle.

I could not believe how thirsty my storm door was. I quickly ran out of the can. I then returned to my local Advance Auto Parts store and bought another can. I ran out of this one too. At this point most of the door was done, but I noticed some spots that were partially done and some where I had missed completely. I ran back to the store. But we could not locate the one can that the store still had, according to their inventory. So they called their store in the next city and they had 3 in stock. So I rushed there and bought one more can.

After using half of the 3rd can I got the whole door done, I think. I'll know for sure tomorrow during daylight. It was a little dark when I finished. I tried to use the deck light but I'll see how things look with natural light tomorrow.

The worst thing about spraying outside is the wind. I had to keep stopping and waiting for a break from the wind then I would start spraying. Also, I got a few paint runs. I'll try to take care of them tomorrow when the door is dry (I hate runs).

But for the most part the door looks like it got a new lease in life. Too bad that this primer is green.

By the way, I learned something about wet sanding today when I called Dupli-color's tech support. I always dip my automotive sand paper in a bucket of regular water. But the guy at Dupli-color said that it's better to dip it in water mixed with dishwater detergent. He said this gives the sandpaper lubrication. I know, I must sound like a real dumb moron to most of you. But just had to share this tip in the slim chance that there's someone out there in the same league as me when it comes to being wet behind the ears.

Anyway, will let you know how things go with the storm door. I'm very curious as to whether this primer will work and make the paint stick (if indeed this was really an issue to begin with. I don't know for sure).

As always, love the feedback you folks give me.

It was not, but we told you that. So, how much time and $ was spent on the green primer?:huh:

 

[ToolSeeker]

Including the gas at about $2.50 a gallon to go to the next town.

 

[KC_Jones]

I think you should have listened about using another primer more carefully OR they should have been more clear. Metal etching primer are just for that etching into the metal to create a bond for successive coats of other primers and paints. You basically should have been able to see through this primer to the aluminum when you were finished. In the automotive industry these are sometimes called wash primers because you put such a thin coat on. After coating with a metal etching primer you cover with a sealer or high build primer depending on what final result you are trying to accomplish. The Zinc Chromate that was mentioned is a fantastic wash primer (I have sprayed many gallons of it over the years) and has been used extensively for use on aluminum (ever see a Boeing factory with the green planes?). It was developed for aluminum if my memory serves me. Bare aluminum can be tough because it oxidizes immediately on contact with air. In other words as you sand it is oxidizing the instant the new surface is exposed. Your instincts to use the metal etching primer are spot on (assuming you had bare aluminum) and your instinct to wash and clean it multiple times was good as well. Good luck with the rest of the paint job! Oh and the dish detergent tip, it isn't really to add lubrication. It cuts the surface tension of the water so it "flows" more evenly with sanding. It is commonly referred to as "wet water". I use it all the time for sanding and buffing automotive paint, makes a huge difference.

 

[stripedbass]

Thanks,

Took care of the few paint runs this morning.

Below is a picture of how it looks. Will paint the finish in a day or two.

For the finish I plan on using Rusto-oleum white gloss and will apply it with a roller.'

I think you should have listened about using another primer more carefully OR they should have been more clear. Metal etching primer are just for that etching into the metal to create a bond for successive coats of other primers and paints. You basically should have been able to see through this primer to the aluminum when you were finished. In the automotive industry these are sometimes called wash primers because you put such a thin coat on. After coating with a metal etching primer you cover with a sealer or high build primer depending on what final result you are trying to accomplish. The Zinc Chromate that was mentioned is a fantastic wash primer (I have sprayed many gallons of it over the years) and has been used extensively for use on aluminum (ever see a Boeing factory with the green planes?). It was developed for aluminum if my memory serves me. Bare aluminum can be tough because it oxidizes immediately on contact with air. In other words as you sand it is oxidizing the instant the new surface is exposed. Your instincts to use the metal etching primer are spot on (assuming you had bare aluminum) and your instinct to wash and clean it multiple times was good as well. Good luck with the rest of the paint job! Oh and the dish detergent tip, it isn't really to add lubrication. It cuts the surface tension of the water so it "flows" more evenly with sanding. It is commonly referred to as "wet water". I use it all the time for sanding and buffing automotive paint, makes a huge difference.

 

[stripedbass]

Below is a view of my storm door from my kitchen (photos of my doors from the inside can only come out clearly at night. In the daytime the photos are too dark, even with a flash).

Tomorrow I'll try to do the first finish coat on my storm door. Being the anal person that I am, the big question I'll have for my local paint store is whether I should still use the 3-inch 3/8 nap roller that I bought from them or a foam roller. I've heard that foam rollers are good for very smooth surfaces. Does a storm door qualify as a smooth surface? I really don't know. Or maybe there's yet another roller that's even better for my needs? We'll see.

DIY projects, aren't they a hoot?

 

[Gymschu]

Others swear by them but I hate foam rollers. They don't hold enough paint and they tend to skid leaving "plow" marks in your paint.

 

[ToolSeeker]

^^^ totally agree absolutely hate them have tried them many times, all sizes and have NEVER got one to work.

 

[stripedbass]

The 3-inch 3/8" nap roller turned out to be fine. My only regret is I wish I had an additional roller, an even smaller one for the narrow aluminum frame for the door. The smallest roller at my local paint store is 2 inches (I called them after I started painting). I'll try Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have. I have a one-inch brush which I used but with Rusto-Oleum my experience today told me that a roller works much better than a brush.

I plan to put on the second coat of finish tomorrow.

Below is a photo with the first coat of finish.