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Paint not holding up on interior wood trim.

2.9K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  woodco  
#1 ·
Around 2007/2008 we had our home's interior painted and the painters used an oil-based paint for all the wood trim, which held up extremely well. We had the interior re-painted in 2016 and the designer told the painters to use an Acrylic Latex Paint instead of an oil-based paint on all the wood trim. Whether this was the correct paint to use or the painters did not prepare the surface properly, the acrylic latex paint has not held up over time. It has flaked off from wear and when it has been bumped when moving objects so now the original color (oil-based color) shows through. Also, when we had the house pressure washed before being painted, we were instructed to use the blue painting tape to seal around the windows and doors so water would not come in. When we went to remove the blue painter’s tape, some the acrylic latex paint pulled off with the tape. It’s like the paint never bonded.


After years of living with this, we have decided to correct it ourselves and to repaint the trim. After speaking with Sherwin Williams, they recommend the Urethane Trim Enamel Paint but I not sure how to proceed or prep.


My questions are…
1. Is this correct paint to use? The current layers of paint are oil and then acrylic latex.
2. Do we need to do any prep work on the acrylic latex paint beforehand? It would be a daunting to impossible task to have to strip off the acrylic latex paint, should that be required. The job would be too big for a 1 or 2 people. This is a DIY project.


Any suggestions would help before we proceed.
Thanks.
 
#5 · (Edited)
How old is the house? any danger of lead paint?

The odds are the latex enamel didn't bond well because it was applied directly over oil enamel. The proper way to do that is to scuff sand the oil enamel and apply a coat of oil base or pigmented shellac primer first. The primer will adhere well to the oil enamel and latex enamel will adhere well to the primer.

I'd sand with 80 grit and then reevaluate. What aggressive sanding doesn't remove will probably stay stuck. After the initial sanding you'd resand with 120 grit. Primer might not be needed.
 
#8 ·
The house is 20 years so no lead paint. We had the house built and this only the third time the "main" interior has been painted. Some bedrooms still have the original paint so those are fine. I will start with a window stool and sand it as you described and see what happens. Hopefully it won't be as bad as I am making it out to be.

Thank you.
 
#6 ·
It really depends on how unadhered that latex is to the oil. Its obviously not adhered well, but is it so bad where anything takes it off? while that weak link will always be in the paint, putting a more durable hard paint on top will help (but not prevent) further flaking from happening as much. you just have to weigh it out. if its only here and there that chips happen, I would go over it. if it flakes off everytime you brush past it, I would take the paint down, at least on traffic areas.
 
#3 ·
Any coating you put on top is only as durable as the bottom coating.

You need to ascertain the delamination problem. Additional coating may cause additional lifting.
So, the acrylic latex paint needs to be removed since that's the layer not holding up? Any "easy" suggestions? That acrylic latex paint is on 34 windows, 13 doors and probably a couple thousand feet of baseboards, wall trim and crown molding. 😥
 
#4 ·
Yes, ... and ... No.
Test before doing.
First, you can test adhesion in the same manner you first discovered a problem.

What areas of trim and window is chipped and flaking?
It's not likely (though could be) that all the Acrylic Latex has poor adhesion.

A room at a time, investigate all the painted wood surfaces. If the coating pulls off with tape, using a plastic scraper, gently, check the adhesion of the edges of the flaw.
After doing / learning that, a plan might be made for repair.

Pick ONE room to "play" in. One room to learn what actions need be taken for the remaining rooms. It's a learning experience and takes some time.. Be patient with yourself. While not easy, the situation may be less problematic than you imagine...

Paint challenges may be the most difficult to discern from afar.
There is no "plug and play" paint refinish.
 
#7 ·
Yes, ... and ... No.
Test before doing.
First, you can test adhesion in the same manner you first discovered a problem.

What areas of trim and window is chipped and flaking?
It's not likely (though could be) that all the Acrylic Latex has poor adhesion.

A room at a time, investigate all the painted wood surfaces. If the coating pulls off with tape, using a plastic scraper, gently, check the adhesion of the edges of the flaw.
After doing / learning that, a plan might be made for repair.

Pick ONE room to "play" in. One room to learn what actions need be taken for the remaining rooms. It's a learning experience and takes some time.. Be patient with yourself. While not easy, the situation may be less problematic than you imagine...

Paint challenges may be the most difficult to discern from afar.
There is no "plug and play" paint refinish.
Thank you. I will proceed that way. For windows, it's the window stool and for the doors, it mainly the door frames.