I am trying to find a spacer that will fit between the face of the drywall and the back of the outlet trim plate. Due to the depth confines of the area we needed to mount the switch, and the fact that is a 3-in-1 switch with myriad wires, the switch protrudes past the usual spot as shown in the attached photo. Does anyone know of a spacer that exists to fill the 11/16 gap between the face of the drywall and the back of the outlet cover. Thanks in advance!
Outlet Trim Plate Spacer?
azsmokey
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I am trying to find a spacer that will fit between the face of the drywall and the back of the outlet trim plate. Due to the depth confines of the area we needed to mount the switch, and the fact that is a 3-in-1 switch with myriad wires, the switch protrudes past the usual spot as shown in the attached photo. Does anyone know of a spacer that exists to fill the 11/16 gap between the face of the drywall and the back of the outlet cover. Thanks in advance!
Attachments
You can use something like a Wiremold extension avai;ab;e at the big box stores.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...97/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=wiremold&storeId=10051
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...97/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=wiremold&storeId=10051
bcgfdc3:
Thanks for the info on the wiremold extensions. I will check those out.
MisterZ:
The switch was professionally wired however a shallow 1 gang box was used because of space confines, as I previously described. The wiring is perfectly fine. Thanks for your concern:thumbsup:
Thanks for the info on the wiremold extensions. I will check those out.
MisterZ:
The switch was professionally wired however a shallow 1 gang box was used because of space confines, as I previously described. The wiring is perfectly fine. Thanks for your concern:thumbsup:
Holy Smokes... let me reiterate...
"Due to the depth confines of the area we needed to mount the switch, and the fact that is a 3-in-1 switch with myriad wires, the switch protrudes past the usual spot as shown in the attached photo."
It is a 3-in-1 switch, not a 3-way switch. Therefore there are more wires into the box. It was wired by a professional electrician to code standards. As there was less than 1 1/4" of space from the stud to the inside face of the drywall, a shallow box was used (which I believe I stated more than once).
Thanks to those of you who actually gave me useful info and advice. To the rest, don't waste your time trying to be smart asses. Go do something constructive.
"Due to the depth confines of the area we needed to mount the switch, and the fact that is a 3-in-1 switch with myriad wires, the switch protrudes past the usual spot as shown in the attached photo."
It is a 3-in-1 switch, not a 3-way switch. Therefore there are more wires into the box. It was wired by a professional electrician to code standards. As there was less than 1 1/4" of space from the stud to the inside face of the drywall, a shallow box was used (which I believe I stated more than once).
Thanks to those of you who actually gave me useful info and advice. To the rest, don't waste your time trying to be smart asses. Go do something constructive.
so it's a shallow box, with probably 6 to 8 wires plus connections, plus device
THIS IS NOT TO CODE. so before calling everyone out you should maybe check that your professional did a professional job.
your professional probably should have used a larger 1 deep box with plaster ring.
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4,352 Posts
A shallow single gang box would never be legal with the device and 3 switches, but looking closely at the pic I think its a 4x4x1.5" with a 1/2" plaster ring, which would give you 15 #14's or 12 #12's. Subtract the device and the grounds and you are looking at 12 14's or 9 12's which would be adequate for the typical way to wire it.
I would like to see the NEC update their wirefill limitations based on the number of switches/receptacles or the depth of the device rather than the number of yolks.
I would like to see the NEC update their wirefill limitations based on the number of switches/receptacles or the depth of the device rather than the number of yolks.
You do realize that i was the last one to say anything, and the previous comments came from people in the u.s. I'm not sure how taking a shot at the country i live in has any bearing on the question you asked. If indeed it is a 4 inch square with plaster ring as i stated before should have been used then your fine. If it's a shallow single gang box as you state then whether you live in the states or "north of the arctic circle" your still in violation of the code.
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258 Posts
Table 314.16 in the US National Electric Code shows box fill limitations.
A non-metallic box with 22.8 cubic in. And 14awg has a max capacity of 11 conductors.
Look it up, do your calculations. You may or may not be over max fill.
In any case i have, nor any electrician i know, installed a switch that needed to be jammed in.
Please do not come here, ask questioms, and curse good people trying to keep your house from danger.
A non-metallic box with 22.8 cubic in. And 14awg has a max capacity of 11 conductors.
Look it up, do your calculations. You may or may not be over max fill.
In any case i have, nor any electrician i know, installed a switch that needed to be jammed in.
Please do not come here, ask questioms, and curse good people trying to keep your house from danger.
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5,369 Posts
You may not like my reply in here but why not change that from single gang box to two gang box that will give you a bit more room and there is a oldwork two gang box that can fit in there between the studs in the wall.
That I will run that way instead try to jam like that. That part I will genrally try to advoid it much as possible there is too many thing can go wrong with packed boxes.
Before you give us a remark we the electricians we have see some of more crazy stuff jammed in the box and we know what it have to be done properly.
Merci,
Marc
That I will run that way instead try to jam like that. That part I will genrally try to advoid it much as possible there is too many thing can go wrong with packed boxes.
Before you give us a remark we the electricians we have see some of more crazy stuff jammed in the box and we know what it have to be done properly.
Merci,
Marc
May want to retract that. Most commenting on poor workmanship, includes myself are also in the U.S..
I would have to add, there is no way the person that did that work, is a licensed professional electrician. Looks more like work of a amateur or handyman.
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4,975 Posts
Google extension ring for electrical boxes. Purchase one and then make your own spacer. The extension ring will have to increase the volume of the box enough to make it code legal for the box fill. A spacer by itself will not be compliant, the device and wiring must be contained within an approved enclosure.
If you can pull the switch out and get us some good pictures of the wiring and box size we can tell you the required cubic inces you will need to add.
Just trying to give world class customer service .... :thumbup:
If you can pull the switch out and get us some good pictures of the wiring and box size we can tell you the required cubic inces you will need to add.
Just trying to give world class customer service .... :thumbup:
Here is another solution.
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/miscellaneous/gangable-non-metallic-box-extender/BES2
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/miscellaneous/gangable-non-metallic-box-extender/BES2
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