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Old House Surface Prep for Exterior White Stain

2.3K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  Gymschu  
#1 ·
Looking at trying a good exterior white stain vs prime/paint this time. I have a very old house where almost all the exterior siding is heart pine that has had many generations of white primer/paint applied. Last couple times I painted I was able to remove 60-70% of paint off wood. Will I have to remove all paint (regardless of how well some of it is still adhering after all the years) to get a good stain or can I stain over residual paint as long as it is same color? Reading online instructions for stain prep seems to indicate that I don't need to get down to all bare wood but would like to hear from those who know stain better than I do. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Just a couple thoughts on this. Can you stain over paint? Sure. Is it ideal. No. It sounds as if you've done a great job so far of removing as much paint as you can. It won't be necessary to remove all the paint. I've put stain over paint many times. Here's the problem though. Stain has a flat sheen to it. Flat attracts dirt and lots of it and light colors show every single particle of dirt and if dampness is any kind of problem in your area, well, that means mildew follows. That mildew will show up and stick out like a sore thumb on a white stained surface.

So, in a nutshell, you are fine with the process you are employing. If you can deal with the dirt and that doesn't bother you, well, the stain is fine.
 
#3 ·
Thank you for your quick response. I live in Eastern NC and have noticed that flat white picks up dirt pretty quick and then mold/mildew, particularly where there is lots of shade ( and we have lots of that). Problem I've had painting in the past is even oil-based primer does not stay very well on this old, tight grained heart pine siding. Man who owns local paint store recommended using a bonding primer on my type of wood. Have not researched that yet. I see that you are a pro painter - are you familiar with this type of primer?
 
#4 ·
Bonding primers are generally used on GLOSSY surfaces so the topcoats will stick. In your case, I don't think that's necessary except for the areas where you can't get the paint off and the surface is glossy. If you are mostly down to bare wood, a slow-drying oil based primer is best. The slow dry gives it time to soak into the wood giving you a better surface on which the paint/stain will stick. However, even a primer may not be necessary if you are using stain. Stain, by its design, is made to soak into the wood so if you are staining, the primer may be a step you won't have to take.
 
#6 ·
Bonding primers are generally used on GLOSSY surfaces so the topcoats will stick. In your case, I don't think that's necessary except for the areas where you can't get the paint off and the surface is glossy. If you are mostly down to bare wood, a slow-drying oil based primer is best. The slow dry gives it time to soak into the wood giving you a better surface on which the paint/stain will stick. However, even a primer may not be necessary if you are using stain. Stain, by its design, is made to soak into the wood so if you are staining, the primer may be a step you won't have to take.
Can you still buy Oil base paint down there? Nothing but water-base up here now, except for industrial coatings....
 
#7 · (Edited)
quick question. Y stain over paint. As far as i have seen new latex made for exterior seems to have better uv protection as well as goes harder. In turn last longer with less maintenance. Y not reprime and topcoat with good exterior latex. Just my 2 cents

Not sure if matters but pro painter not a diy guy. Not sure if that makes my opinion better:no:worse lol
 

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#10 ·
On homes where there has been lots of peeling and the wood isn't in the best of shape, I like using an oil-based primer and then topcoat it with SW's Duration Satin latex. If Duration is out of the budget, SuperPaint works.