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Observation deck/hunting platform - version 2

2.5K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  rafjr64  
#1 ·
This version would be a four-legged, freestanding platform. Max weight capacity 500#. I need to get up 16' and have a 6'x6' square platform. Seems there are at least two ways of doing this: Would #2 below work and be safe? I see guys who have built hunting platforms with the legs angled out for stability which makes sense for wind sheer when placing an enclosed building on top.. Would like to avoid that look altogether and have the legs plumb vertically. Since this will be an open structure, wind forces will be be minimal. Foundation 8'x8' concrete pad 12" thick OR incorporate 24" diameter footings 36" deep into the 12" concrete pad. No frost issues here. Soil is silt/clay.

1) single continuous (20') 6x6 posts with a deck built at the 16' mark and 3'-4' guard rails.
Ladder through the center from ground to 16' mark thru a trap door.
Problem = getting deck beams/girder up that high without renting equipment

2) build a deck on top of a deck. Build an 8' deck then build an 8' deck on top of that with 3-4' rails.
Question is how does the second deck get attached to the first deck? Seems second level posts would need to be placed directly over first level posts with some sort of post base attached to the floor of the first deck. But that seems like it might be a weak area relying on the first level deck boards to fasten a post base to.

Thoughts? Ideas?
 

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#3 ·
Some thoughts from a DIYer, not an engineer:

First, a six by six footprint for a 16-20' tall structure sounds a little "tippy" to me. But I'll defer that point to someone else.

If 16' 6x6's are available, I'd rather see those than a deck on a deck.

I wouldn't bother with the 6x6's for the railing. Either buy 16' posts or go up 20'. Attaching notched 4x4 railing posts to the deck is easier than raising the extra 4' of 6x6. And, you won't lose as much floor space.

Way easier to build the ladder up the side and put a gate in the railing than a trap door in the middle. And it would give more flexibility for benches or seats. If you do the diagonal braces as pictured, getting into the middle won't be much fun, either.

2x6 joists will work for a 6' span. If you use joist hangers and set them first, on the ground, then hoisting a 6' 2x6 joist to the top shouldn't be too tough. I'd set up a rope and pulley.

More as I ponder it.
 
#4 ·
The "tippy" part is what bothers me. We build stands with the slanted posts mainly to keep that sway out of the picture. The "look" will trump practicality, especially going up 20'. We climb scaffolding all the time and there's no way I would install a "ladder" either in the middle or on the outside without some sort of cage for protection. You get up about 12' and your brain and hands begin to fight each other. Your hands don't want to let go of the rungs and your brain tells you that you should have stayed on the ground.

Glad the design is in its infancy, as it needs refinement and safety built in.
 
#6 ·
on the ladder, I was thinking a 8' ladder to the first floor and then a separate 8' ladder from there to the second. built into the middle and only 8' feet should be comfortable.

What if I made the base wider with the use of some built beams and diagonal bracing? ...through bolted at the base of the columns? Maybe a 6x10 horizontal beam at the base tied into the four uprights and anchored to the concrete? along with some diagonal bracing. See image below.
Image
 
#7 ·
and the weight this water tower is holding is 10 times what I need and this water tower is more susceptible to wind sheer. If I went with columns that were wider at the base, what angle would be sufficient. Seems any amount off of plumb would be a dramatic improvement.