Hi all. I am replacing a portion of 30 year old rusted through metal gate and fence with a wooden gate with a small matching section of fence. You may remember my recent posting about attaching posts to concrete block walls. Anyhow... I have put the gate frame together, and I am wondering if this gate frame looks braced/sturdy enough not to sag after I finish and hang it. I saw that the big box store sells no-sag gate kits with corner triangle supports, but I decided just to use larger Simpson Steel angles at all four corners - screwed with 1/4" SDS screws. Double 6" SDWS timber screws into framing member @ corners. The gate will be trimmed with slats to match the wood fence portion. What do you think?


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Seems okay....how does it feel?

 

Using the metal corners will help keep sag down. Here's the gate kit you referred to. They are the "boss". Absolutely no sag.

Homax EasyGate No-Sag Gate Bracket Kit 2614 - The Home Depot

Build sturdy looking fence gates or driveway gates by using this EasyGate No-Sag Gate Bracket Kit from Homax. Universal left or right swing.

www.homedepot.com

 

Feels solid. Just wondering if it needed some sort of cross brace... though that may just make it slightly heavier when it is complete.
I forgot to mention it is about 46.5 inches wide x 65.5 inches tall.

 

Feels solid. Just wondering if it needed some sort of cross brace... though that may just make it slightly heavier when it is complete.
I forgot to mention it is about 46.5 inches wide x 65.5 inches tall.

It is not just the sag but also the warping, a steel frame with wood on it is the best bet.

 

Yeah, I was referring to that Homax kit. These Simpson angles are about the same size... just not attached to hinges. Will be using 3 Stainless hinges.

Nealtw, agree a steel frame would be best, but I didn't want to find a metal guy to put me something together in the correct size... so I thought this frame braced with the simpson brackets would probably keep the shape for a decent amount of time.

 

for a decent amount of time.

When that day comes, you can always put a cable turnbuckle on the inside from latch bottom to hinge top and keep it adjusted that way.

 

Ahhh... forgot about those cable turnbuckle things I have seen on gates. Cool.
So would it be of benefit... or a waist of pricey redwood (and added wight) to attach a cross brace 2x4 inside the frame - like what is marked in red in the pic below?

 

Certainly from hinge low to latch high, since it is "pushing" rather than pulling like a turnbuckle would.