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New Honeywell RTH2510 - A/C continuously runs.

10K views 27 replies 6 participants last post by  beenthere  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I attempted to install a Honeywell RTH2510 digital thermostat as a Christmas present for my girlfriend. I have read the manual multiple times, labeled all wires and according to the manual, I believe I have everything hooked up correctly. However, as soon as I turn the breaker on, the unit begins running even with the tstat turned to the off position and the fan in the auto position. Here's details:

Old tstat (White-Rodgers LR27935 Class 2 - Type 1f58-34):
Orange - O
Yellow - Y
Red - R
Green - G
Blue - W2
Brown - C
White - E
Black - L

New tsat:

Orange - O/B
Yellow - Y
Red - R
Green - G
White and Blue - W/Aux (The manual says 'If your old thermostat had E and Aux wires connect both wires to AUX terminal)
Brown and Black have been taped off.

Additionally there are two jumpers:
JP1 is set to HE (The manual says to do this if you have connected a wire to the G terminal and have an electric furnace)
JP2 is set to O (The manual says to do this if you have a heat pump and have O wire connected to the O/B terminal)

I don't know much about heat pumps (where I'm from we used swamp coolers!) so forgive me if my terminology is incorrect.

When I turn the breaker on with the faceplate of the tstat removed, the blower inside is running, but nothing outside is running and I feel air coming from the vents. It does the same thing with the faceplate installed with the heat/cool switch set to off and the fan switch set to auto.

When I turn the heat/cool switch to heat and raise the temperature setting, the tstat display says 'heat on' and the inside blower runs but the outside unit does not.

When I turn the heat/cool switch to cool and lower the temperature setting, the tstat display says 'cool on' and both the inside and outside units are running and cold air comes from the vents. When I raise the temp setting, the outside unit stops but the inside unit keeps running.

One last piece of info, when I first turned it on after hooking it up, there was a clicking sound (sounded like a relay) coming from the outside unit that clicked every few seconds and then stopped. It has not done this since.

Link to installation manual: http://customer.honeywell.com/Honeywell/getliterature.axd?LiteratureID=69-2380ES.pdf

Thank you in advance for any help you might provide!
 
#11 ·
Sounds like a hat pump with an electric air handler. So he probably does have an electric furnace.


OP. You didn't tie the black and brown together when you taped them off, did you.
 
#4 ·
What kind of furnace do you have? If Carrier/Payne/Bryant then the blower automatically turns on for 90 seconds and then you can control it.

This occurs when power to the unit has been lost and turned on again, when you turn the breaker off and on.
 
#6 ·
One last piece of info, when I first turned it on after hooking it up, there was a clicking sound (sounded like a relay) coming from the outside unit that clicked every few seconds and then stopped.

The compressor dropped out on thermal protection because it was short cycled. Recheck the connections to verify that no wires are shorting together, allow the compressor to cool for a few hours (or cool it with a hose) and retry.
 
#8 ·
Doc, not sure why that link didn't work for you. Here is a link to the product page. Toward the middle of the page there are three tabs, under the 'manuals' tab, the one labeled '69-2380ES' is a pdf of the physical manual that came with the tstat and that I am referencing. According to the manual, it is compatible with a heat pump.

I have let it run for several minutes (as I was going outside and back in) and it never turned off until I hit the breaker. Is the furnace part of the heat pump? The unit inside is a Tempstar. Here is a link to a picture of the tag on it.

@Houston204 - I don't know what 'dropped out on thermal protection' or 'short cycled' means. Is that something normal because I had the power off at the breaker or is it unrelated? The compressor has worked fine after shutting it down, just have the other problem with the heat pump fan constantly running.

Please feel free to dumb it down for me, I enjoy learning everything I can!
 
#10 ·
Okay, I looked at the manual and it does say to leave the jumper JP2 in factory set position if using O and you've already mentioned that.

I'm not sure but I did see two sets of phone numbers on the manual to call for assistance. :thumbsup:
 
#12 ·
Doc, I already called the tech support number. After about an hour of troubleshooting, the tech told me that the new tstat I bought was defective. I then took it back to Home Depot and replaced it. The replacement made no difference. And unfortunately, the tech support didn't help either.

beenthere, I have black and brown tapped off separately. I am in Florida if the climate helps determine what type of system is typically installed in houses.

Okay, my g/f just returned from out of town and here's some new information. Before I ever did this, the fan would stick at times (on the old tstat) and you would have to turn the switch from 'auto' to 'on' and back to 'auto' again and it would turn off. Not sure if that's related, but it sounds relevent.
 
#13 ·
JP1 has to be set to HE, JP2 to O. Then on the main set up program on number 6 it has to be set up for heat pump, number 1 (2H1C). Scroll down to page 9, system set up.

The fan sticking is relevant to the system function but I'd have to think it's a seperate issue.
 
#14 ·
And which fan is sticking, the inside blower or the outside? And if it was the inside was heat on as well, was it blowing warm air when it stuck or just moving house temp air? and was the outside unit running too when it stuck if it was the inside with the problem?
 
#15 · (Edited)
I like how that stat says it can not be used with multi stage systems yet you have to set it up for 2H1C. Brilliant.

You do not have second stage heat with this stat, you only have emergency heat meaning if the temp in the home is too cold and the system can not sTatisfy (runs continuously without bringing up the temp) then you'll have to manually turn on emergency heat whereas with your old stat second stage (electric heat strips) would kick in on their own to assist.

That is what is meant by mulit stage so with this new stat you don't have it, why the instruction say to put w2 onto the aux terminal, w2 being second stage. It was not like that on your old stat as it had it's own terminal for w2. In all honesty albeit it's a new stat you've downgraded. Prepare to be single, my friend. :)

Burn that stat and go buy a good Honeywell.
 
#17 ·
Actually, that stat does have aux heat.

Multi stage is generally when you have a 2 stage compressor.



OP, what settings did you use in the installer set up menu?

Also, please recheck whee the wires are connected in the air handler.
 
#20 ·
Well fortunately, my girlfriend decided to call in a neighbor who does a/c repair rather than kick me to the curb! Doc Holliday nailed it, there was a bad relay (the neighbor knew it was on its way out from a previous visit) and I never programmed the tstat to 2H1C (default is 1H1C.) My girlfriend is now sTatisfied. (©2011 Doc Holliday)

Thank you everyone for all the advise, I learned quite a bit and am looking forward to learning more from this forum! :)
 
#21 ·
Well fortunately, my girlfriend decided to call in a neighbor who does a/c repair rather than kick me to the curb! Doc Holliday nailed it, there was a bad relay (the neighbor knew it was on its way out from a previous visit) and I never programmed the tstat to 2H1C (default is 1H1C.) My girlfriend is now sTatisfied. (©2011 Doc Holliday)

Thank you everyone for all the advise, I learned quite a bit and am looking forward to learning more from this forum! :)

That caught like a wildfire, and I like it! Good to hear you got it working, bud. :thumbsup: