I would say a qualified no.
What is the roofing product?
1.Did the drip edge get put on over the field product then sealed with a strip of some sort?
2.Or did the drip edge go on first and the flat product on top?

In theory high wind could lift the drip and take a roof with it in the case of #2. But in reality on a one or two story residential it is unlikely to happen.

 

EPDM roof. case 1. Drip edge went on last and was sealed with strip.

It just looks unfinished not being attached to the fascia.

 

No reason to nail it. In fact if it ever gets direct sun the metal wants to expand and contract a bit and it could pull the nails out.

 

Ok then. Thanks.

 

No, the drip edge should have a drip with a return hem and be hooked to a continuous cleat which is secured to the fascia. This allows the drip edge to expand and contract in the longitudinal direction. Tying in metal to bituminous materials is a failure point, so you are really better off with internal roof drains, but if you have to use a drip edge, make sure you have enough insulation above the deck to install a tapered edge the falls from about 1.5 inches to zip in about two feet, this way you will not have ponding right at the edge of the roof where your stripping plies are built up. Contrary to what most people will tell you, you do not want to install too many nails in the flange of the metal, and the metal should not be thicker than 24 gage if steel or .032 Aluminum. and NEVER nail through the laps, this creates a rigid column. Nail at about 24 inches on center, thats it. This will allow bowing of the metal just a bit. Metal is going to move faster than asphalt with temp change. that's just physics, and a fact of life. The retainer cleat is a different story. It should have slotted holes and fastened about 8 to 12 inches on center. This is what keeps the wind from peeling off your roof.

 

OK. Care you share a drawing or pic of that.
You're aware my roof is flat with rubber membrane?

 

Thanks. Hopefully, it is adhered to some type of rigid insulation over your roof deck, which I assume is plywood? You could probably get away with some Hex, washer head self tapping screws with EPDM washers in the fascia about 2 feet on center through holes somewhat larger than the shank of the screw, if you do not mind the exposed fasteners. I am sure the length of the metal is not very long at all so expansion/contraction should not be much of a problem, as Craig implied. Wait a couple of months, pressure wash the roof, and roll n a couple of coats of Acrylitop white coating. It will reduce the temp of the membrane (and radiant heat on your porch) minimize movement, and keep the membrane from heat aging. I assume there are no seams on this roof, as it is small. If there is, I would strip in the seams with five or six inch peel and stick after priming. These steps can double or triple the life of your roof. I have a church that was roofed in 1983, the seams were coming apart, and it was adhered right to the plywood deck (No Longer allowed) I stripped in the seams, coated the roof with white acrylitop 60, and it has been going strong ever since. It ponds somewhat, so I re-coat it about every 7 years. The Achilles heel of epdm is the seams, stripping them in basically eliminates T-peel, which is how they generally fail. Especially the ballasted roofs, where all of the stress from shrinkage is at the seams. Good Luck!

 

Thank you gentlemen.

 

The edge should be held down. Aluminum nails, and don't nail tight to the facia and keep them far apart - maybe 8'. I did nail facia aluminum on the gable side and facing south, did not have expansion problem.
The edging can be held down with a strip of metal which is nailed under the edging and then bent up, although that is done before the edging. SS trim screw may work at an angle.