Framing needs to be good to accept tile- rugged and flat. You're hacking it.

The tub will need to be leveled in two directions- and you're trying to fit a square peg in a round hole (that is, this is an alcove unit and it's square- the alcove also needs to be square). You should have bought the 59" tub to begin with.

Once you have the 59" tub (if it actually fits- confirm square and level planes), fix the framing that has been destroyed, and make sure there is appropriate nailing for drywall and tile backers, and nailing at the tub flanges.

Replace the crappy r13 kraft face insulation with r15 mineral wool and Certainteed Membrane before the tub is installed.

 

Thank you for your suggestions. The “hack job” was already done when we took down the old tile and drywall. There was old ceramic tile from too to bottom. There was also a green tin from the 50’s when the house was built. We’re trying to update it and found many issues besides the tub installation. We put it in temporarily to see if it would fit.

 

54" tubs aren't usually expensive - of course that would require building one of the walls out to meet it.

 

Should have mentioned this too, probably the best option.

When I'm in the design phase, I make en effort to allow more than 60 inches for bathroom width: 5-6" or so. This requires a pad-out wall on one side of a one-piece alcove tub/ shower unit. The benefit, though, is that the unit can be replaced in the future without removing all of the drywall in the bathroom.

 

If that's the tub, I would modify the framing to make it work.

 

Thank you. That’s what we said to do. Just wanted other options if it was possible.

 

The framing is lacking in that head/toe space, and it is probably due to old growth lumber measuring full 4", rather than 3 1/2" like today. That's a full inch. I would modify the framing and add appropriate support lumber where needed before giving up.

 

I did notice this too, meant to ask the depth of the studs. If the studs are 4" deep, possible that you can sister each stud with a 2x4 (make sure they're good!) and use as a sawzall guide. The cuts don't need to be great as there would be a new stud in place.

 

If you removed a 60" tub with tiled walls then you should be able to put a new 60: tub and tiles walls back.

 

But he has to add more studs, especially at the corners to make his CBU work out. His present studs are proud of the plates, so new nominal 2x4 studs would serve him better, IMO.

 

Try this. I didn't see it but I know the content creator, usually reliable.
Depends on you. If that tub doesn't fit, you can change the framing but best if you change all framing for bath walls. You can not add or delete little bit here or there. Straight, plane of flat studs, plumb and level. Square of corners. Check everything. If tub is 60 then you can't fit it into exact 60" opening.

 

Take the studs out at the head and foot and replace them rather than start whittling... Yes, probably have a bunch of nail pops on the adjacent room walls.

 

Hello, great people!😊 I truly have a problem fitting my 60 inch porcelain tub into its space. The tub doesn’t sit flush on the floor because of a board and there’s too much overhang on the lip of the tub. We’re installing tile around this area, also. Can we make notches in the studs, replace a few studs or purchase an expensive 59 inch tub? I would appreciate any help on resolving these issues. Thanks!

I looked your images closely and failed to see the actual problem.

I would absolutely trim but not butcher whatever I had to to make it fit. Sister that one butchered stud and if you think you might ever want glass doors double up the studs on the room side of the tub at each end. Spacers might be required to get the wood in the right location. Tip: Screw don't nail all the stud additions so as not to damage the walls on the other side.

 

Thank you. I had a carpenter come in and take a look and this is exactly what he said.

 

@dianaermhh exactly where would a 59" unit be bought? Ooops, I see you are a link advertiser. Good bye.

 

Can you put some 2x4 or 2x6 on their side?

 

Instead of tile you might use sheet goods similar to Corian. I installed sheet goods in 80 year old pier and beam house because I felt that tile would fall off due to instability of the walls.

 

You CAN use sheetrock, but the application of Kerdi membrane over it would be mandatory.