Toggles, no. I would open up the wall from mid stud on the left to mid stud on the right. and install 2 each 2x10's across the stud bays flush with the sheetrock. Reinstall the sheetrock you removed and finish the wall. That way you are covering all the bases.

 

Thx Chandler. For the toggles just for clarification it was to use bolts into the center stud & then added reinforcement on each side.

but yes, I figured #2 is the best way. I’ve never done this before…what Am I using & how to fasten the new 2x10 to the existing studs? And ugh. Means I have to open up both sides…

and I’m not clear on why/how mid-studs …what are those ends that fall mid-stud getting fastened to?

 

I might make a french cleat to cross 3 studs or however however many studs are needed then the TV could be adjusted horizontally to any desired position within the cleat limits .

 

I would put some elevator bolts on plywood so they stick out where you need them for the bracket and screw it to the wall.
Hitting at least 3 studs. With a big TV you won't be seeing the plywood.

 

I would put some elevator bolts on plywood so they stick out where you need them for the bracket and screw it to the wall.
Hitting at least 3 studs. With a big TV you won't be seeing the plywood.

So wait. Now this suggestion is different from going Inside the wall? Although I know you wouldn’t be able to see the plywood, my OCD-ness doesn’t like the thought of a plank on the outside of my wall. But I guess this would be the easier approach…although it does mean the TV would be protruding from the wall an additional 3/4”?

 

I would just screw 3/4" plywood across 3 studs and secure the bracket to that. Paint it the wall color, it will be behind the TV.

 

Toggle bolts are rated for a hundred pounds. Stick four of them in. Plus a couple of lag bolts into that center stud. You could hold a thousand pounds.

But with a screen that big, I would STILL put wood behind it. It is not flush against the wall and pulling straight down like a mirror. It is away from the wall and it will tend to tilt forward. The toggles are not meant for that.

Use the plywood. If you don't want the TV sticking out, you could easily trace around the plywood and remove the drywall behind it. The plywood would be recessed in the wall. Notch the studs a bit to make it totally flush. That is totally fine. Put some construction adhesive and screw that plywood into the studs. It's not going anywhere. Then, yeah, you should tape that seam. But it is behind a TV.

 

Toggle bolts are rated for a hundred pounds. Stick four of them in. Plus a couple of lag bolts into that center stud. You could hold a thousand pounds.

But with a screen that big, I would STILL put wood behind it. It is not flush against the wall and pulling straight down like a mirror. It is away from the wall and it will tend to tilt forward. The toggles are not meant for that.

Use the plywood. If you don't want the TV sticking out, you could easily trace around the plywood and remove the drywall behind it. The plywood would be recessed in the wall. Notch the studs a bit to make it totally flush. That is totally fine. Put some construction adhesive and screw that plywood into the studs. It's not going anywhere. Then, yeah, you should tape that seam. But it is behind a TV.

Ok great and @Nealtw think I got it. What’s the right fastener to use to attach the plywood to the studs? Would grip rite #9 x 3” constructions screws suffice or do I need something else?

 

Two studs Is more than enough to hang a 100# TV.
No reason to overthink this.
Forget the plywood. Your TV mount will go across two studs...that is more than enough.

 

Thx Missouri. Yes, 2 studs would be more than enough but the problem is that the center line doesn’t allow for the mount to span 2 studs… that’s where this all started. Do you have any other suggestions?

 

What is your mount make/model?

 

It’s the Sanus from Costco

 

Based on the instructions, it appears that the lateral location of the actual arm can be adjusted somewhat—enough to make up for your stud location. Unless you've just got OCD about the mount not being exactly centered?

 

Agreed. According to the instructions the OP can screw the mount to two studs separated by 16" and offset the TV so that it isn't positioned in the centre of the mount.

 

As long as the mounting plate can extend over 2 studs you are fine.
The center line is irrelevant in this situation.
Yes, a 100# television is heavy....but by comparison it is a relatively light load to hang on a wall.
You can adjust the brackets on the rear of the flat screen to compensate.
Your OCD is doing overtime.

 

FWIW, my suggestion would be. To get a 3/4 X 6'" plank and as long as needed to span at least 2 studs.

Make it into a FRENCH CLEAT hanger, affix the wall half to the wall studs, and the outer half to the bracket.

Easiest and fastest way to do this.

paint it to match the wall, or bracket, and be done.

It will be plenty strong enough to hold a big screen, and hidden, unless you look closely for it.


ED

 

It may be that whatever is behind the TV might not be that well-hidden. I think that many people overestimate the ease with which a really big TV on a mount can be moved by one person, so the TV mount might eventually stay in its extended position full time, exposing whatever is behind it.

 

I think that many people overestimate the ease with which a really big TV on a mount can be moved by one person

And also the not-laziness of people to actually move a TV to and fro.

 

Haha yeah. I think the main use for an extending mount is for when you need to plug and unplug something into the back of the TV. Else, it just sits in the same position on the wall.

 

Mount a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood solidly to the studs and attach your brackets to the plywood.

 

I don't understand the original problem. Surely a bracket for an 82 inch TV could hit 2 studs that are only 16 inches apart. Like someone else said, as long as you are in two studs, you are good.
If you don't like that for whatever reason, then the idea of using plywood across 3-4 studs would also work. So long as it is some dimensions like 60 x 30, you'd never know it was there.

 

Just get a cantilever wall mount for your TV, The base should reach two of the studs. put a recessed outlet in the wall for the power and cable wires.
Once mounted you should be able to adjust the TV to the center of the wall as it is adjustable and tiltable. No drywall removal, no plywood. Just mount the TV to the wall studs with four bolts and you're done.

 

Ok guys. So I’m here trying to install this. Based on all the replies (thank you!) just decided to go into the studs and use the lateral shift capability. But of course I get to the last (top right) pilot hole for the lag bolts and my center fell Exactly on top of a screw. So I moved over to the right enough to leave room (hopefully) for the lag bolt. The instructions emphasize the important of these being dead center in the stud…this one obviously won’t be. Will this be Ok? Or should I add 1 additional toggle Bolt on this tile corner for extra support?

 

Just take the screw out. It's function of holding the drywall to the stud is going to be redundant once you put a big lag bolt in.

 

Ah didn’t even think of that. Shoot!!! But now is the wall/stud compromised at all bc of the close proximity of the hole I drilled to the left of it?

ETA
just unscrew the screw a bit and it is a shiny silver screw. Aren’t drywall screws those dark black ones? Hope this isn’t a screw for something else?!?!

 

Thank you Chris!!! I’ll go with your suggestion.

also lastly, for the outlet box, I have read many different approaches for this. But the method I think I’m going with is for the outlet to go above the bracket vs below.,,which allows for the “gravity hang” of the wires. Of course they will be tightened and bound but residual “hang”. Do you agree or have another thought?

i was going with red box #1

 

also lastly, for the outlet box, I have read many different approaches for this. But the method I think I’m going with is for the outlet to go above the bracket vs below.,,which allows for the “gravity hang” of the wires. Of course they will be tightened and bound but residual “hang”. Do you agree or have another thought?

This is a more complex question than how to mount the bracket, depending on what wires (and potentially devices) will be behind the TV and how close you want the TV to the wall. I just finished doing three of these in our house. Each was done differently, but in each case I made it so that nothing projected past the surface of the drywall and the plugs for power and data cables to the TV were parallel to the wall to not constrain how close the TV could be to the wall.

 

The screw head looks black to me, minus the joint compound in the slots and where drilling it took the coating off. It's a drywall screw. Don't worry about it, or the extra pilot hole. Just drill the pilot hole where the drywall screw was.

 

Thx Chris!!! Ok so hopefully last question. This is an electrical question. I will add outlet off of the outlet below on the wall and will stay within the same studs.

My question is whether it’s possible to get the wires into existing box without taking the whole box out? It’s a new construction box, so nailed into the studs.,,and if at all possible not to have to remove & replace,‘would love to save the work. Is this possible to get new wires in???

 

Is this possible to get new wires in???

It's a tad tricky, but it can be done. For a situation where I'm not able to remove the existing box, I typically start at the existing box and feed the wire, as straight as I can, up the wall until I can fish it out of the hole for the new one. If you can recruit a helper with small enough hands and arms to reach down into the wall, that makes it much easier.

 

Have your receptacle box within the confines of the bracket or above it as pictured. You can group your wires with cable ties and tie them to the frame without any sag.

 

Do the existing cables come in from the top or the bottom?

 

From below. Ugh. Really didn’t want to have drywall work but think I don’t have a choice unless I go out to buy a long flexible auger bit (which I’ve never used before and unsure if it would work anyhow).

i think I will just have to cut a new drywalll access hole under the horizontal stud, in order to use my 90 degree but to drill a hole through the stud.,,and feed the wires from the outlet down below.

I’m just really hoping there isn’t another horizontal stud in between… anyone know if there’s a chance their might be?!?? 😯

 

Why do you think you have to cross a stud in order to put your box up there. Move it to the left directly over the other receptacle in the SAME stud bay. No drilling unless there are perlins in the wall.

 

Maybe I’m not explaining it correctly. I am within the correct vertically oriented stud bay. What I have discovered is that there are horizontal beams in the wall…I’m learning called blocking (for fire protection). I guess the correct terminology here is no longer stud but horizontal blocking? I just cut another hole and stuck a stick down and discovered there’s yet another horizontal blocking another 20” down. And then I fear there might be yet a another 20” down from there. So now I have to possibly cut 2 more drywall holes. So much for clean wiring work…now I’ll have ugly drywall patches down the wall.

what a project!!!

ETA
doing some research and learning that yes,‘I have a lot of horizontal blocking studs in this wall bc it’s a 2-story wall…I think about 21 ft tall. 😩

 

Lotta sheetrock work, but doable and you can be pleased with the finished job. Dive in.

 

A 1/4" lag bolt in a 2 X 4 will have approximately 200# of pullout strength for each inch into the 2 X 4.
If you use a 3" lag in two studs, that will give you approximately 1000# pull out strength.
......your flat screen is 100#.

 

that will give you approximately 1000# pull out strength.
......your flat screen is 100#.

The 100# is the weight of the TV, which is not the same as the tension pulling on the lag screws. It depends on the distance from the TV to the wall and the distance from the top lag screws to the bottom of the mounting bracket. If the TV is 24" from the wall, and the bracket is 6" high, the 100# load will produce 24/6*100 = 400# of total tension on the top lag screws. A couple of 3" lag screws would still be enough, obviously, but let's not mislead the OP into thinking a single 1" lag is enough.