btw, this is what the rock looked like...

 

Do yourself a favor, replace it. Place some bleach in a spray bottle and spray a mist of bleach so as not to disturb the mold. What little disturbance you created removing the rock is fine, but mist the remaining and remove, then replace. From the pix there is too much damage for it to clear up IMO.

TIP: When replacing the sheetrock, leave it up about 1/2" off the tub. Put the new surround all the way to the tub. Caulk the joint where the surround meets the tub. If the sheetrock touchs the tub and water gets behind the surround the rock will act as a wick and suck the water up.

 

Thanks for the tip. I think that is exactly what happened in the first place.

So if I am going to need to replace the framing, I was thinking about trying to just cut out the damaged portions. This is obviously not load bearing (its not origional to the house).

I want to leave the tub and just unscrew it from the framing of that wall. I used paint to illustrate the pics of what I would remove and replace.

 

Any other advice anyone can offer?

 

Looks fine as long as it can be secured tightly so as not to have any play when you try to move the wood from side to side or front to rear. If there is any wobble after replacing then you may be able to install metal plates across the cuts to stiffen them. These can be had at any lumber yard. They come in different lenths and widths.

 

I wouldn't use bleach to remediate the mold, it's not a recommended practice.
http://www.ecamold.com/pages/bleach.html
Basically, it won't necessary kill the mold, just hide it, and it could do you more harm than good.

For small amounts of mold a simple dish soap and water mixture is good to remove it from the surface. Then the most crucial thing is to dry the area out, and remove the source of moisture to prevent new growth.

For larger amounts, replacing the wood a suggested is a good idea considering how porous it is.

 

I wouldn't use bleach to remediate the mold, it's not a recommended practice.
http://www.ecamold.com/pages/bleach.html
Basically, it won't necessary kill the mold, just hide it, and it could do you more harm than good.

For small amounts of mold a simple dish soap and water mixture is good to remove it from the surface. Then the most crucial thing is to dry the area out, and remove the source of moisture to prevent new growth.

For larger amounts, replacing the wood a suggested is a good idea considering how porous it is.

How much is considered "a larger amount"?

I haven't gotten to working on this yet, but I cleaned the area with soap and water and sprayed it with a disenfectant/mold INHIBITOR that also claimed to get rid of the odors caused by mold. I did this just for the time being until I could start replacing it...

But when I was finished cleaning it and put a fan on it overnight, it looks alot better than it did! I am considering not replacing the framing, but I think at this point it would be good insurance to replace.

 

First, bleach WILL kill mold spores. It is an accepted method and even the recommended method in healthcare settings.
Second, unless somebody in your household suffers from asthma, severe respiratory ailments or allergies, has an immune system deficiency or is being treated for cancer, then don't overreact to the presence of mold.
The problem with porous materials such as wood or the paper backing on drywall is that the mold colony will send out mycelium (roots) in search of food. Removing the mold on the surface and killing all of the spores will solve the mold problem, provided that the area is kept dry. If it once again reaches a level of moisture that can support mold growth, the mycelia will produce a new colony of mold and the process starts over again. It is impossible to eliminate all of the mold spores from any given place in your home. Most molds need a few things to thrive, a food source (paper, dust, drywall, wood), moisture, and to a certain degree temperature. That is why you seldom if ever find mold in your freezer, but do find it in your refrigerator. That said, the best you can do is remove the moisture or the food source. Mold resistant drywalls do this by eliminating the paper. If you have sanded off the mold, then seal the wood. Kilz primer is one that the local mold remediation instructor recommends. You should really vac everything up with a HEPA vac. Mold spores won't pass through a HEPA filter. I always laugh at those "Deadly Mold" ads that try to get you to buy some magic formula or some mold test kit. Mold spores are everywhere. Want a small dose? pour ranch dressing on your salad. Want a large dose? Spread mulch around your flowers. This is one of those things that an over active media has blown way out of proportion and has not provided very factual information. Even some internet sites are loaded with half truths trying to sell magic mold killer.

 

Oh boy, FINALLY somebody who has nailed the coffin shut on my beliefs! I'm severely allergic to everything, probably my own sweat, asthmatic, blah, blah, blah. Media feeds on fear and ignorance. I haven't died yet. I have little faith in medicine and none for the guinea pig drugs advertised on TV. Most of the fungicides I have worked with are more dangerous than the mold itself. Bleach sure took care of the "black death mold" in my old apartment. The only thing bleach won't kill is algae.

"...side effects include exacerbation of the original symptoms, plus excessive body hair and if you breathe air you may turn into a firey monster."

The handyman helps keep the contractors in business.

 

OK, the bleach thing. Its just to kill and contain the air born spores. Its the air born spores that we breath thats harmfull to us.

 

Well if you believe that, it's up to you. You may want to quit breathing though, because that last breath you took certainly contained a number of mold spores. Unless you have any of the medical problems I listed above, mold spores can easily be handled by your body's immune system. You may get sick if you were in an enclosed space breathing air that was thick with mold dust, but normal exposure isn't a problem FOR NORMAL PEOPLE. And even then it may well be the chemical by-products released by the molds that cause you problems rather than the mold itself. Raking leaves or spreading mulch or shoveling dirt on a dry day will get you a super high exposure to airborne spores. If you opened a very moldy loaf of bread you would likely be exposed to one of the highest concentrations of mold spores that you will ever encounter. And remember, those spores that caused that bread to get moldy were in there when you bought it. They started creating colonies as soon as that bread was baked and cooled. My thought is that if I find mold in my house, I am more concerned for what is being destroyed by the moisture, rather than the mold itself.

 

Well, I decided on treating the mold rather than replacing the framing.

I started with scrubbing with soap and water. Then, sprayed a bleach mixture on it. Let it dry overnight with a fan on it. Then, I primed with zinser BIN. Once it was dry, I sprayed on a mold inhibitor.

I can put my nose right up to it, and can't smell the mold smell anymore.

So I went ahead and put new drywall, using the paperless drywall. that's where I am now.

Next challenge: preventing this from happening again. The reason it started was because the surround wasn't properly sealed.

Any advice on ensuring it is done right? I read somewhere that it is a good idea to lightly sand the tub and surround before caulking. Any truth to this? I also know to use tub and tile caulk, not kitchen and bath as was previously used.

 

Most bath caulks will stick pretty well to smooth surfaces. I don't think I would sand and rough up the surface. At some point you will need to recaulk. A rough surface will be harder to clean up. Tub and tile caulks contain some chemicals that molds don't like such as a small amount of silver nitrate or glycol. That eventually leaches out and then molds start to grow in the dirt and organics embedded in the caulk. (Paints that are marked to use in bathrooms contain chemical mold inhibitors too). Soap scum has a fair amount of mold food in it. That's what you usually see in the corners of showers, mold eating soap scum. "Mildew resistant" always makes me laugh too. Mildew is actually a class of parasitic molds that live on other molds and the leaves of living plants.
The guy who taught me about mold remediation and control just lives for the stuff. I still get an annual refresher course in it for work.
Glad you got your problem solved and didn't have to over-react

 

Fungus lives on our bodies. Mites live on our bodies. Med school was scary. You think the bathroom and the world outside and the unknown depths of the universe are scary? Check out some stuff under a microscope...

If I didn't hate dirty jobs, I'd be working along side M6's buddy! Actually, it's the lab work I hate - boring in downtime.

 

For killing mold spores on porous surfaces, you can use an EPA rated fungucide or a white vinegar mix.

http://www.epa.gov/mold/hiddenmold.html

 

Whatever you decide to use, HEPA vac the area to remove the dead mold carcasses. There are some researchers who have the opinion that even dead mold can cause allergic reactions (in some suceptible people) when the carcasses breakdown to their chemical components. If you are going to use vinegar, keep in mind that the acid will remain. Acid and most building components don't play well together over time. Fungicides will definately work, but most are nastier in the long term than the mold was. And for you professional types, be very cautious about spraying anything with the letters "cide" into a customer's house (pesticide, biocide, fungicide). Unless you have the proper applicators license, you could be setting yourself up for a load of problems with your state's EPA, as well as your business liability insurance carrier.

 

There is all kinds of new products that are mold resistant.:thumbsup:

Mold resistant drywall tape.

• Includes an anti-microbial coating for increased mold protection, backed by a perfect “10” rating on ASTM D3273 mold test.
• Ideal for use with mold-resistant and paperless drywall.
• Enhanced protection in moist environments.
• Self-adhesive for easy application to joint surface prior to compound use.
• Tough fiberglass mesh increases joint strength and structural integrity.
• Eliminates blisters and bubbles commonly found with paper tapes
• Here's the link Fiba tape Mold-X10

 

To original poster,,,MY pics showed alot of 'rot' in that framing corner,,,or was that a mirage??

Along these lines,,,would those 'blue' framing lumber like I saw on extreme makeovers be a GOOD idea in a bathtub situation??Where extreme moisture and leaks are bound to occur over time?? Do these mold inhibited lumber really work??Cost of same??2X,,, 3X???

I read here someplace about using felt paper behind wall surface to direct water back to tub,,,I cant find that thread now,,,where does the felt go??do you put plastic over wall studs first before attaching cement board for tile backer?? Do you put edge of ceramic tile clear down to tub wall? and caulked?? How would any moisture get back inside tub when completely sealed??Leave cement board up off tub 3/8-1/2" so it doesnt wick water??

 

To original poster,,,MY pics showed alot of 'rot' in that framing corner,,,or was that a mirage??

The pics make it look more like rot, but it's not. I tried to insert a screwdriver into it, and it did no more than normal lumber would to...

 

I agree. The field is still in it's infancy. During such time, alot of mistakes, alot of guessing, and alot of assumptions are made. As time goes on, like all things, there will be more information, more regulating, and more control.

FWIW: I think everything you wrote, Maintenance 6, regarding mold treatment and remediation, was right on the money.

Even the point about sealing the wood framing with a stain killing agent like Kilz.
More of the Mold Remediation Companies are doing that now. Some will even tint the stain killing compound a tan color, to match the wood framing (my guess is to psychologically "comouflage" their stain-killing work).

 

Okay, we discovered that the "handyman" that installed our tub and surround didn't do it right, and water was getting behind the surround and running down the corner of where the tub meets the wall.

Today I removed the surround and cut away the molded rock. Most of the framing is fine, except for where the water was running down the corner to the floor and around the corner (floor not level).

Here's my question: Can I just treat this mold? Or will I have to replace it?

I Think you should not clean it yourself. Because it can cause serious health problems. Call a company to do it. best of luck.:hang:

 

I doubt that after 2-1/2 years it will matter too much. :whistling2:

 

Mold problem

Ya he is right. Do something immediately. Please show pics after removal.

 

Black mold

What are the symptoms of black mold?:rockon:

 

Mold

What kind of health concerns does mold pose to my family?:tank:

 

to get back on topic, especially to maintenance 6-what do you think about putting a product like Fiberlock IAQ 6000 to kill mold?

 

Fiberlock IAQ 6000 is not a mold killer. It is a sealer with a fungicide built into it. Kill the mold first. Clean it up. Dry it out. Keep it dry. Then apply the coating (Fiberlock is one of several) to seal any porous surfaces. All you need to know to control mold..................... well that and ignore most of the media hype about how "deadly" mold is.

 

Where my family’s health is concerned in my opinion I would remove every bit of the mold and replace with new material. That way I can sleep better at night knowing it’s out of my house and the new installation was done right this time.

 

in my case the material is the block in my basement, so its kind of tough to replace that