I'm pretty sure it is still 1 inch clearance to combustibles for b-vent from a furnace or boiler. I don't know of any requirements on copper but i think the plumbers like to keep them 8 inches apart from each other. HS.

 

My apologies for not asking the question clearing.

The vent I was referring to was a plumbing vent, not a direct vent from a heater. I have a 2" plumbing vent that needs to be about a 1/4" to 1/2" from the face of the wall studs to clear an obstruction.

Is it technically ok to do this? I was planning on nailing on steel protectors on the stubs to prevent punctures after the sheetrock goes up.

 

My apologies for not asking the question clearing.

The vent I was referring to was a plumbing vent, not a direct vent from a heater. I have a 2" plumbing vent that needs to be about a 1/4" to 1/2" from the face of the wall studs to clear an obstruction.

Is it technically ok to do this? I was planning on nailing on steel protectors on the stubs to prevent punctures after the sheetrock goes up.

I'm sure that would be fine. I've never heard of a problem with a nail in a vent pipe but protection would be good. I've seen nails in copper water pipe hold for months until the nail rusted out.

 

The vent I was referring to was a plumbing vent, not a direct vent from a heater. I have a 2" plumbing vent that needs to be about a 1/4" to 1/2" from the face of the wall studs to clear an obstruction.

Is this work getting inspected? While it's not a plumbing code violation (as long as you use a nail plate), it is a building code violation to bore that much of a stud out that close to the edge. You'll have trouble with your framing inspection if this is what you intend to do.

 

Yes, the work is getting inspected, but the framing has already been signed off. I'm not roughing in the plumbing and have this one issue and don't have an elegant way around it.

I did some looking around the net and couldn't find anything about how much wood you're allowed to cut out of a stud, so any more specifics on that would be appreciated.

According to the books I have, they recommend cutting holes instead of notches for the integrity issue you're referring to when you have clearance issues. The wall is 2x6, so there's plenty of wood to continue supporting the wall - certainly more than the 2x4 wall that the house was originally built with. Aren't 2x6 walls more for insulation than support anyway?

 

Aren't 2x6 walls more for insulation than support anyway?

Generally yes, unless there is some extra loading on it like 3 stories or something similar. I think if your bottom plate is nailed to the floor and your top plates are secured trusses, or floor joists, or whatever is up there you don't have much to worry about. The UBC and I'm sure the IRC allow the outside plates to be comptetly cut out If straps are used across the plates. I've maintained buildings I've framed for 25 years and have never had a problem with vent pipes in walls. <P>

But on the subject of plumbing vents I think they should be tied together as much as possible, (less roof penetrations), and penetrations should be as close to the ridge as possible, (less likely to leak). I've found that the collars fail long before the shingles fail. I have had a small building for 20 years with 24 roof penetrations for pvc vents. Pain in the butt. This Spring I plan to get that down to 4 penetrations, (or less) and then re- roof. >I'm pretty sure i'm correct in saying that all the vents can be tied together and alot of guys will take the path of least resistance, (straight up through the roof). Maybe someone will correct me if i'm wrong. HS

 

I did some looking around the net and couldn't find anything about how much wood you're allowed to cut out of a stud, so any more specifics on that would be appreciated.

We'll assume that you're under the IRC, since most of the country is.

You may cut, drill or notch a top plate of an exterior wall or interior load bearing wall more than 50% if you span the gap with a 16 gauge 1-1/2" wide plate on each side,, affixed with 8 16d nails on each end of the plate. If this is an outside wall, the sheathing on the outside is permitted to subsititute for the plate on the outside.

For an exterior stud or interior load bearing stud, you may:

• notch no greater than 25%
• Bore a hole no greater than 40% of the stud's width. The hole may be no closer than 5/8" to the edge of the stud.
• If the hole is between 40% and 60% of the stud's width, you must double up the stud at that location. This size of a hole may not pass through more than two such doubled studs.
• A hole may not be behind a notch. A hole must be fully above or below a notch.

For an interior non-load bearing stud, you may:

• notch no greater than 40% of the stud's width
• Bore a hole no greater than 60% of the stud's width. The hole may be no closer than 5/8" to the edge of the stud.
• A hole may not be behind a notch. A hole must be fully above or below a notch.

Regardless of the type of stud, you may never drill a hole greater than 60% of the stud's width or drill a hole closer than 5/8" from the edge of the stud. There are commercially available "boot plates" that are specially made to reinforce studs bored greater than 60% or closer than 5/8" that may or may not be acceptable to the local inspector.

 

Oops. I stand corrected. I tested on the 1978 UBC. We still had provisions for dwellings in rock. I will say again in my own defence that I never had a callback or a warranty issue with a bored or notched plate and I've had plenty of callbacks. Also if I was going to argue with the IRC, which I won't, I would say that unless your are building a mobile home there are many reasons for the plates not to be continuous.<P>
How'd MD get over here? He must have thought we needed some straightening out.

 

How'd MD get over here? He must have thought we needed some straightening out.

Sorry, Hammer. I didn't mean to step on anyone's toes. Other than my main trade (electrical) there are a few other building topics that especially interest me. Among them are boring & notching, dryer venting, rehabs to flip, and certain refrigeration topics.

 

Sorry, Hammer. I didn't mean to step on anyone's toes. Other than my main trade (electrical) there are a few other building topics that especially interest me. Among them are boring & notching, dryer venting, rehabs to flip, and certain refrigeration topics.

I'm just giving you chit. From lurking around i know you have more info than i could ever have.> Whats a good refrig site. I need to know when it is time to toss an old frig and buy a new. Run time seems to be an issue. > I apologize for getting off thread. HS.

 

Whats a good refrig site.

http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/ this is one of the better ones.

I need to know when it is time to toss an old frig and buy a new. Run time seems to be an issue. > I apologize for getting off thread. HS.

I was talking more like refrigerated warehouses, chillers, and ice build systems. As far as the icebox in the house goes, I guess you buy a new one when "Harvest Gold" is a color that no longer suits your kitchen.

 

Tnx.HS.