Looks like an old Amana built(now Whirlpool) frig. Main T-stat control is inside ceiling of freezer. I have had to replace a few on them over the years for running too cold. Should be an air damper adjustment knob in the fresh food section, some do not have this. You'll need a full model number to order a T-Stat or might able able to get the Whirlpool number off the stat.

 

thanks - ours does not have a knob for the damper; it has the vents there so I just put a piece of air duct tape (aluminum) over 3/4ths of those vents to see if that might warm things up a bit. Yesterday I also removed the cover over the evaporator fan just leaving it open exposed in the bottom freezer thinking that will push less air to the fridge. Also connected the icemaker back up. The compressor (pretty sure) is still running all the time though I have both freezer and fridge settings to a 1. If I could get a Tstat control reasonably I will change. UPDATE model 596.71142101 S/N 0103134157 found. So kind of in the dark here appreciate your insight! One other thing - its weird that this problem started after messing with the fan that stopped turning - that was a physical issue with the fan motor itself.

 

thanks - ours does not have a knob for the damper; it has the vents there so I just put a piece of air duct tape (aluminum) over 3/4ths of those vents to see if that might warm things up a bit. Yesterday I also removed the cover over the evaporator fan just leaving it open exposed in the bottom freezer thinking that will push less air to the fridge. Also connected the icemaker back up. The compressor (pretty sure) is still running all the time though I have both freezer and fridge settings to a 1. If I could get a Tstat control reasonably I will change. The problem is the model serial had been ripped off the unit when we purchased used 4 yrs ago. The 5059 guess was just because we saw a picture of one associated with the model. So kind of in the dark here appreciate your insight! One other thing - its weird that this problem started after messing with the fan that stopped turning - that was a physical issue with the fan motor itself.

If this started with fan, it's possible you have it in backwards, or the blade on backwards? It must be properly installed and the evaporator cover reinstalled. These are critical for air flow. The fan sends air up to Fresh Food section through a center tunnel above the fan. There is two vents that return air from Fresh Food section that needs checked too. It is under the ceiling of the freezer, at the very back, far left and far right sides. Get down on on your knees and look up into the ceiling of the freezer with the evaporator cover removed. There is 20+ small holes or slots in the plastic liner that the air flows thru. If these vents are blocked, you can have temp issues. Pull the bottom drawer of the Fresh Section and see if vents are clear. I find trash in these since it's at the floor of the Fresh Food section. Also look and see no ice buildup in vents from the Freezer Section, looking up into the ceiling where the vents are.

It does not sound like a T-Stat since this started happening after that repair. Normally, the bearing goes bad in the evap motor and it will stop turning or get noisy. You may have allowed the mtr to start functioning for a short time, but if it's the bearing, it will stop again. The evaporator coils should have "frost" on them and NO ICE.

The T-stat can be removed, if suspected, and ensure frig is unplugged, and a manufacturer number found on it, sometimes, and you can order a Whirlpool replacement. For DYI's, I like Appliance Parts Pros.com Discount Appliance Parts – Since 1999.

 

thanks - ours does not have a knob for the damper; it has the vents there so I just put a piece of air duct tape (aluminum) over 3/4ths of those vents to see if that might warm things up a bit. Yesterday I also removed the cover over the evaporator fan just leaving it open exposed in the bottom freezer thinking that will push less air to the fridge. The compressor (pretty sure) is still running all the time though I have both freezer and fridge settings to a 1. If I could get a Tstat control reasonably I will change. The problem is the model serial had been ripped off the unit when we purchased used 4 yrs ago. The 5059 guess was just because we saw a picture of one associated with the model. So kind of in the dark here appreciate your insight!

If this started with fan, it's possible you have it in backwards, or the blade on backwards? It must be properly installed and the evaporator cover reinstalled. These are critical for air flow. The fan sends air up to Fresh Food section through a center tunnel above the fan. There is two vents that return air from Fresh Food section that needs checked too. It is under the ceiling of the freezer, at the very back, far left and far right sides. Get down on on your knees and look up into the ceiling of the freezer with the evaporator cover removed. There is 20+ small holes or slots in the plastic liner that the air flows thru. If these vents are blocked, you can have temp issues. Pull the bottom drawer of the Fresh Section and see if vents are clear. I find trash in these since it's at the floor of the Fresh Food section. Also look and see no ice buildup in vents from the Freezer Section, looking up into the ceiling where the vents are.

It does not sound like a T-Stat since this started happening after that repair. Normally, the bearing goes bad in the evap motor and it will stop turning or get noisy. You may have allowed the mtr to start functioning for a short time, but if it's the bearing, it will stop again. The evaporator coils should have "frost" on them and NO ICE.

The T-stat can be removed, if suspected, and ensure frig is unplugged, and a manufacturer number found on it, sometimes, and you can order a Whirlpool replacement. For DYI's, I like Appliance Parts Pros.com Discount Appliance Parts – Since 1999.

Thanks again for the detailed response - model 596.71142101 S/N 0103134157 found the sticker behind the upper light in the fridge. Don't think the fan blade is backwards because it is pushing the air upward. Don't think there are obstructions in the way either; the airflow for this one exits in the fridge behind the left side fresh food container - thats it from what I can tell the left side gets super cold along with the door the rest of the fridge is fine. I think my experiment with covering most of the vents might be helping will know more tomorrow. I did notice finally late this afternoon the fridge compressor stopped for about 30 min until we started using it again; I turned down the freezer control to .5 from 1 which is as low (warm) as you can go pretty sure. If the fan does die here is the replacement Kenmore 596.71142101 Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly - Genuine OEM which is $175; the whole fridge costs $200 5 yrs ago so that won't happen but I think the fan is running perfectly with no weird noises.

 

Thanks again for the detailed response - model 596.71142101 S/N 0103134157 found the sticker behind the upper light in the fridge. Don't think the fan blade is backwards because it is pushing the air upward. Don't think there are obstructions in the way either; the airflow for this one exits in the fridge behind the left side fresh food container - thats it from what I can tell the left side gets super cold along with the door the rest of the fridge is fine. I think my experiment with covering most of the vents might be helping will know more tomorrow. I did notice finally late this afternoon the fridge compressor stopped for about 30 min until we started using it again; I turned down the freezer control to .5 from 1 which is as low (warm) as you can go pretty sure. If the fan does die here is the replacement Kenmore 596.71142101 Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly - Genuine OEM which is $175; the whole fridge costs $200 5 yrs ago so that won't happen but I think the fan is running perfectly with no weird noises.

That's an Amana(596) built Kenmore, which Amana is owned by Whirlpool and the evap motor is no longer available. That is a non OEM part you found, which will last maybe 6 months. You are doing good to save you money! The compressor shut off for 30 minutes because it went into automatic defrost. Does this approx every 12 hrs for 20-30 minutes. Still sounds like a stuck T-Stat, Whirlpool W10752646 Thermostat (AP5956381) - AppliancePartsPros.com

 

1. Is there anyway to test this part before replacing? 2. Is it really in the front right side "below the freezer" - read that off some guy who installed it at your parts link; not sure how to interpret. 3. Finally, if I do replace it because this box won't last forever I found a "compatible" part on ebay for $10 W10752646 Refrigerator Thermostat Compatible With 1110552,AP5985208 1-PACK | eBay I know it will only last 6 mths but I'm willing to take the chance if in fact that is the issue; go easy on me Lol thanks - Bill