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Installing a basement subfloor around floor drains

46K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  chandler48  
#1 ·
Hi All,

This is my first post. I am finishing my basement and am in the process of putting in my subfloor.

My basement is a level concrete slab with cinder block walls.
I do not have any moisture problems, but am installing a moisture barrier anyways.

On the walls, I first put Drylock.

On the floor I put down 1/2" rigid foam with a 1/4" gap on all sides. I filled the 1/4" perimeter with "Great Stuff" expanding foam. I tuck taped all of the joints and laid them off center.

On top of that I am laying 3/4" treated OSB (nailed down with powder driven masonry nails).

On top of the OSB I am going to be installing vinyl tiles. This part of the basement will be where my wife does laundry.

I have 2 floor drains in the concrete. Both are 4" black PVC pipe. One is used to drain from my HVAC/water heater. Another is not used for anything. (pictures attached).


My questions are:

1. For the drain used by by my HVAC/water heater, is it OK to simply cut out a square in the subfloor for access, or do I have to raise it so the top is flush with the new tile floor?



2. The drain that is not used - can I just cover over it with my subfloor? Do I need to do something special to plug it?


There is water in the bottom, but I do not plan on using it for anything. If I can't cover it, how can I raise it up and make it level with the tiles?

I also have a standpipe where my laundry and tub drains into.



I'd like to avoid calling a plumber.
Thanks much!

--Michael
 
#4 · (Edited)
I sure hope you meant a subfloor that's T & G like Advantec not just reguler square edged OSB.
Your also missing a step, You should not attach glued down tiles to OSB There needs to be a layer of 1/4 underlaymant sanded plywood layed so the seams do not line up with the seams below, attached every 4" on the edges and every 6 to 8" in the field.
Then fill in all the seams and flaws with nongypsom floor leveler or the flaws will show through the tiles.
 
#5 ·
Hi All,

This is my first post. I am finishing my basement and am in the process of putting in my subfloor.

My basement is a level concrete slab with cinder block walls.
I do not have any moisture problems, but am installing a moisture barrier anyways.

On the walls, I first put Drylock.

On the floor I put down 1/2" rigid foam with a 1/4" gap on all sides. I filled the 1/4" perimeter with "Great Stuff" expanding foam. I tuck taped all of the joints and laid them off center.

On top of that I am laying 3/4" treated OSB (nailed down with powder driven masonry nails).

On top of the OSB I am going to be installing vinyl tiles. This part of the basement will be where my wife does laundry.

I have 2 floor drains in the concrete. Both are 4" black PVC pipe. One is used to drain from my HVAC/water heater. Another is not used for anything. (pictures attached).


My questions are:

1. For the drain used by by my HVAC/water heater, is it OK to simply cut out a square in the subfloor for access, or do I have to raise it so the top is flush with the new tile floor?

View attachment 45712

2. The drain that is not used - can I just cover over it with my subfloor? Do I need to do something special to plug it?

View attachment 45713
There is water in the bottom, but I do not plan on using it for anything. If I can't cover it, how can I raise it up and make it level with the tiles?

I also have a standpipe where my laundry and tub drains into.

View attachment 45714

I'd like to avoid calling a plumber.
Thanks much!

--Michael
[/QUOTE
So apparently nobody has an answer. that sucks. I'm in the same boat and the internet is seriously silent on this subject.
 
#6 ·
I know it is an 8 year old thread, but since you breathed life back into it, I don't see the need in a subfloor on concrete. What would the purpose be? If the concrete floor is flat and smooth, install your floor covering directly over it. I would not recommend carpet, but a product like LifeProof LVP. Tile is hard and cold, but it is an option, too. LifeProof comes with its own underlayment attached, so it is a one time shot.