Have you run a cost comparison between that product, and rigid foam panels with wood studs?

 

rigid foam panels with wood studs?

I haven't run a cost comparison yet, but am leaning toward the 2 x 3 stud walls because wiring will be in them. Not sure what foam panels to use, and whether to place them behind or within the stud walls.

 

The product name is not the important part, the R value is.

My parents had a solid exposed concrete wall basement with 3 windows in Southern Iowa. Maybe a foot was above ground level. We had a fireplace in the wintertime and in the summers it was always cooler down there. The upper level duct work for the AC system ran in the ceiling and there were some vents for the basement area. In the summer we blocked them off occasionally in the winter we would open one and let the heat move through the space. Still always cool down there which was fine with me as mom kept the home to warm in the winter for me.

 

IF I remember correctly:
For basements, if you're going to use foam boards, install them on the concrete walls and then if you're using stud walls, put the walls in front of the panels. (don't go the reverse, as I think that'll cause moisture issues). IF you're going to skip the foam panels, and use wood framing, do NOT put the framing against the concrete walls. Leave about an inch of space and then put the stud walls up and insulate with mineral wool/rocksul/whatever it's called.

There's more info over at the Fine Homebuilding forums as well in this regards.
Basically, you're going to lose the 1" anyway, IMO. I'd opt for the tighter/more insulation, but then again I live in upstate NY, so we're a bit cooler up here in the winter. Humidity is a problem in the summer, even with Central AC (in the basement). Cooler air doesn't hold as much moisture.

 

I am planning on installing 1" foam boards to the concrete block walls, and then installing stud wall in front of foam boards. I'm probably going to have to remove the ceiling to do this, as well, because the wiring needs to be updated and new cans installed for LED lighting.

 

Pro. Nailing strips preinstalled. Drywall directly on the foam.
Cons. At least couple here. 1. It seems to be eps where xps is better material. 2. Probably extra cost. If you like direct method, you can tapcon 1x3 strips on boards. I would want to screw the boards to cement wall and will have worries about glue staying stuck or tapcon and washer into boards. Neither is secure. If tapcon into nail strips, can the screws be recessed?

 

Pro. Nailing strips preinstalled. Drywall directly on the foam.

That would work; if using strips they would definitely need to be attached to the concrete wall. I was planning on installing a wood frame wall in front of the foam because I don't think 1" of foam by itself would be enough insulation, and the stud wall would allow more insulation. Another aspect of this project is I was going to remove the old outdated and ungrounded NM wiring running through metal tubes in the concrete block, and run new grounded 12 ga NM wire through the new wall studs.

 

For your use, probably 1 to 1.5" foam board against the foundation which can insulate as well as moisture barrier, washer and tapcon. Then batt insulation on the walls. BTW, metal conduit can be grounded and serve as ground. Ask, maybe with pictures, at the electric section of the forum. New codes may require grounded cable but in nj, old system is still good and not required to wire the whole sections of a house. If cable insulation is in good condition, rewiring the whole bsmt is unnecessary cost. Use metal outlet boxes and grounding tail between outlet and box.

 

These are a play on homeowners as being a good alternative. You get these foam panels,yeah great!. Then glue them in,so there is NO physical fastening. See that? They are not structual enough to hang a mirror on,let alone frame a ceiling to them. Not doing that? Cool. Find a way to run any type of plumbing in these walls. No room for a pipe chase. Brings it to the next problem,of many. Mount electrical boxes inside the walls?Nope. These are garbage. Some idiot tried to re invent the wheel. These are NOT structural,the R value is Terrible. Frame the walls,insulate,run everything the right way. Because this garbage isn't the right way.

 

@tobeydarter hopefully in the past two years, the OP got his project done.

 

Weighing back in on this, I have not started on this project yet because of other projects in the house. I decided on insulating the walls with 2" Owens Corning Foamular and building a stud wall in front of it. Another thing that is stopping me is that the concrete floor is not level. You can tell that the floor slopes from center of floor toward the walls. Since I want to install laminate flooring or something similar, I'm thinking the floors need to be leveled with self-leveling compound or something before installing the stud walls.