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HVAC Supply Air???

1.6K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  user_12345a  
#1 ·
I'm in process of getting ready to have my entire HVAC system replaced. Compressor shorted on Condenser, it's R22 and they all seem to say the system needs flushed and the A Coil needs replaced as well. Those two pieces are 11 yrs and 16yrs old....the furnace is from 1995. I'm told by one tech that furnace is showing signs of being breached as well. Doesn't really matter, other than possibly for insurance claim under equipment breakdown, as I think if the rest is being done I'd be dumb not to replace furnace at same time and just start from scratch with all matching equipment.

1915c 1-1/2 story Bungalow with masonry chimney. Chimney is unlined, so I'm told it needs lining. One HVAC company said they'll include that. The other wants me to get a bid, which I'm doing this afternoon from a 3rd party. Crazy part is, it's the company that is a few thousand more that wants the bid.

The other part of this, which is why I'm posting is the one said I need to cut a hole in my 100yr old 5 panel door and put two grates about 10"x13" on it. One up high and one down low. The other company, didn't mention, but when I called them back they said I might need to get it fresh air. The furnace is in a room that is L shaped and is 7'x9' on one leg and 8'x17' on the other with 7 foot ceiling. The other option given was to cut a dryer vent sized hole into the side of house and just have an open hole with a vent on it to the outside.....screw THAT! I realize they do similar in new houses, but my house is drafty enough and I'm not doing that.

So is there an easy way to figure out how much air I need to supply from rest of basement? Furnace has obviously NOT been having any issues the way it's been, but I get code doesn't really account for 'it worked fine before'. I don't mind one grill low on the door, that would be fine and I could live with that....it would be 8"x18" to match the panel evenly. Would I need a 2nd? If so how large? Trying to decide if I can install some sort of grill in ceiling of finished space and go over or find a place on the wall that doesn't bother me as much.

***one other thought is a few years back when basement was finished I installed a return air duct, about 15"x15" into the basement to help circulate that air. I could always unhook it and use it. I might actually have another vent like it and just duplicate it and use the wall cavity on another spot, but still need to know how many cubic inches of wall vent are needed and does one have to be up high and the other down low?
 
#6 ·
The high and low grills are right out of the gas heater specs shown on line. (first pic I found) it would be the same for a furnace, possibly larger depending on BTU's of the furnace.

If you go to an high efficiency unit they will use 2" pvc for the intake and exhaust air. (depending on distance.) That is what I did when I changed my system out sure cut down on the drafts in the winter time.

I bought a 97% two stage heater/air handler. Heating bills are less now. Most of the new HE equipment is the same ducted in and ducted out.

This makes 10000% better sense to me than trying to cut holes in my home and create drafts for flames to follow.
 

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#3 ·
Do not waste your money on a chimney liner, ditch the open natural draft water heater -> go direct vent if close enough to exterior wall or power-vent, or power-direct vent.

This page explains the differences:

Put a condensing furnace that vents through the wall and takes combustion air from outside.

You'll need only one small opening for water-heater for combustion air into furnace room, if you get a tank that takes air from inside -> the direct vent and power-direct vent take from outside.

Only if the furnace room is in the middle of a finished basement with drywall ceiling and you don't want to open the ceiling does it make sense to go mid efficiency furnace, keep a open natural draft water heater and spend on a chimney liner.

Local codes/rules dictate need for vent between furnace room and basement - it depends on btus for appliances that take combustion air from the house.
 
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#5 ·
Both furnace and water heater are in center of basement. Some ceiling finished some isn't. One big issue is I have a large bay window on the side without finished ceiling. The windows are 2-3' wide each (3 windows) by 5' tall. I'm not sure there is a way to go under and I don't want to loose more headroom.

Water heater is 3 months old, not interested in replacing that at this time!

All that said, I otherwise would consider and am open to discussion if an HVAC person thought best, most don't seem to think good idea.

I also think I found a page online that shows how to figure opening size. With that I read Total BTU (furnace water & water heater is electric) X 50/1000=cubic foot required. My quick math shows need 5750cuft. I'm at about 1400cuft in that room, so I need air. Ughhh!!! It also show's 1 square inch per 1000 BTU but not less than 100 total sq inches. I'm not sure if that's 100 sq in between both upper and lower, which it says you need 1 of each or 100sqin upper vent, 100sqin lower vent. Total leads me to believe combined, but.....

Thanks for the replies!