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How would you handle this floor transition?

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2.3K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  carpdad  
#1 ·
Restoring the old wood floor in the hallway, but pulling up the old laminate flooring left a 1.5" difference between the wood and the bathroom tile surfaces.

Previously there had been 2 flimsy pieces of plywood stacked with a piece of marble just like the white one (new) you see in the picture. The old piece of marble was broken in the center, likely due to the flimsy plywood they used to raise it up.

I picked up the piece of marble scrap that you can see underneath the white marble transition.
Not sure if I will use it underneath or not, as it would raise the transition to 2", and I feel like people will stub their toes or trip in the night... I could try to smooth it into a little ramp, but afraid it will crack, and still be a tripping hazard...

Any ideas?

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#2 ·
Honestly, if that’s a bathroom I’d rip that floor up also. Even them out. That’s way you can even out all the flooring. But, if you have to transition that much you could get that marble angle cut to ramp up the piece for less of a sudden raised area. I’ve seen it once or twice. It’s alright, but…
Your right about the toe stubbing. Hopefully not a full on fall.
 
#4 ·
Honestly, if that’s a bathroom I’d rip that floor up also. Even them out. That’s way you can even out all the flooring. But, if you have to transition that much you could get that marble angle cut to ramp up the piece for less of a sudden raised area. I’ve seen it once or twice. It’s alright, but…
Your right about the toe stubbing. Hopefully not a full on fall.
I'm tempted to do this - since the bathroom floor is older (but in OK shape - no broken tiles, etc.). However then I'd still be left with a 0.75" gap... better than a 1.5" I suppose. I've had so many cascading projects in this house, not sure I want to add the bathroom floor on...
 
#5 ·
#8 ·
Correct me if wrong. I see 1/2"? ply under the tiles. So the depth is about 3/4"? Since tile ends and ply sticks out, you could try cutting the ply with osillating saw. Finish what the saw can't reach with chisel. Get 1/4 and 3/4" cheap chisels and cheap grinding stone. Tiles look fairly even cut, so little grout should take care of it without much problem. Then look for 3/4" or little thicker saddle, marble or not. Set it with thinset. No choice but to set it on the wood. You can give it better bed with expanded metal lath and use lots of roofing nails to bed the lath. Flatten it. Just wide enough and thin enough, thinset, grout and saddle will hide it. BTW, absolutely no very high saddle with sharp square edge. No higher than 1/8-1/4".
 
#9 ·
I would do, and always do exactly as your first thought, cut the wood out and put a threshold of marble/travertine right under the door, it's a great place for a transition between floor materials.

All my tiled rooms are like that and if you think it's a disaterious look remember how often are the doors closed and someone just might be standing on the other side in shock of seeing a different material under the door, it just doesn't happen!
 
#11 ·
Since there's a 1.5" difference between the wood floor and the bathroom tile, you want to make sure the transition is both safe and aesthetically pleasing. One option is to use a tapered hardwood transition strip as @Nealtw suggests, that gradually slopes from the higher tile to the lower wood floor. This would create a smooth transition and reduce the risk of tripping. You can find these transition strips in various heights and finishes to match your existing flooring. Another option is to build up the wood floor area slightly with plywood, making sure it's level. Then, use a standard threshold or transition strip to cover the remaining difference. I hope this helps you find a good solution!
 
#12 ·
I would be looking for a Threshold the size needed to fill the space and tapered to make the trip hazard nothing.

A decent cabinet maker could fashion one if nothing is commercially available locally.

ED
 
#14 ·
Imho 1.5" over the width of a threshold is a tripping hazard no matter
I think no matter what the depth you you instinctively will step over it.

My builder used a schluter tile edge on the kitchen tile that was a 1/4" high, it's very eye opening if stepped on. We did for a couple months but in the last 17 years nobody even gives it a second thought as they pass into that room 20-30 times a day!.

Even when you had the laminate it was still a bit of transition, did it cause any "stubbed toes"?

Its not the best but to rip out floors just to fix that would be a stretch!
 
#16 ·
Rails on stairs are there just in case. Thresholds should be as such just in case. Never assume everybody will avoid it. Never leave a sharp edge. Edge should have at least somewhat larger than 1/8 radius unless flush. Wood thresholds are fine but cutting a rabbet for overlay is a problem because thin piece left which can be stepped on and crack.