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How to repair open folds/seams on flat roof

3K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  ll_moto_ll  
#1 · (Edited)
** EDITED to reflect that the roof may not be EPDM/rubber after all... **

I have a EPDM or similar type of rubber flat roof (pretty much the standard here in Baltimore, MD) that is about 7 years old, installed in 2017 and then I purchased the house in late 2020. It was not coated during the initial installation, and was left as "bare". About 3 months after I became the owner, a substantial leak occurred in the upstairs ceiling around where the vent stack exits the building/roof. I attempted to get the original installer to come out and honor the then current warranty and provide a fix, but when I couldn't reach them I went ahead and patched what seemed like the obvious problem areas (cracks in existing flashing/cement) with a rubberized cement product & mesh tape. I don't recall this solving the problem entirely though, and when I was finally able to get a hold of that original installer, they suggested doing a silver coat because it had never been done. I went ahead and paid them $1000 to do it, and afterwards the leaking seamed to have stopped.

Flash forward to this past March (3 years after the coating was applied) and I"m finally getting around to replacing the ceiling areas that were damaged during that previous leak. This is a house from the 1950's and has rock-lathe all over (including ceiling), so removing it was a pain. After ripping down the affected ceiling areas I took a break, leaving the "attic" space had exposed for a few weeks. During this time a big rain storm happened and I visually noticed 3-4 areas of leaking. Two of which were emanating from a nail/split in the wooden roof base layer (boards, not plywood), and one from a joist/board intersection - all of which were close to the sides of the house. There was also substantial leaking around one of the "roof vents" (which are old metal grates, mortared into the exterior brick wall), where there has been obvious deterioration of the mortar and significant leaking. Here are some photos, highlighting actual leak locations - I'll just mention that the black areas in the 2nd photo were not damp to the touch and I assume they were caused from previous leaks and/or are severe cases of sap that oozed out over the past 70 years):

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Since the warranty on the rood had since expired, I went up on the roof myself to check for obvious points of water entry and saw several areas (near where the leaks were inside) where the roof material had open folds along joints. Given that the rest of the roof in general looks decent, I can only assume this is where water is getting in. There are a bunch of these spots all over the roof, but here are some photos of the more obvious locations:

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It's really not in the cards for me to replace the entire roof this year, so I'm wondering if there is a reasonably easy way to repair these spots in the meantime. Is it possible to just thoroughly clean the area and then inject/apply some sort of patching material (rubberized, silicone, etc), or is the only real way to cut these areas out entirely and apply a new piece of roofing material as a patch with new flashing cement? Either way, it seems like the silver coating might need to be scraped off/removed as well for any type of patch to properly adhere?

Any knowledge/suggestions would be helpful. If I cannot do this myself (ie. one local roofing supplier near me won't sell to you unless you're a contractor), it would still be nice to know the correct protocol to compare with a diagnosis/quote from a professional roofer.

Thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
Since coated the original surface is changed, so you can't use dedicated tape used for rubber roofs. Homedepot, amazon sells eternabond tape, and it is best diy grade I used. Clean the area, primer and tape.
Rubber roof has many decades of life. Yours is just started but shoddy install and later wrong advice about the coating. I would start looking for reputable roofer in the area. Search rubber roofing manufacturer, or such that sells in your area/has a representative, and look for roofers listed with them. Do not hire the cheapest.
I'm not a roofer, interested in materials. I don't know if rubber roofing can survive removing that coating. I am guessing. I guess that coating must be removed, rubber surface exposed. Failed seams either covered with dedicated tape or cut out and recovered. It will not be cheap but cheaper than total replacement you're thinking. Rubber roof is supposed to last 40 years or longer.
Removing the coating, sand or paint stripper. Ask the roofing manufacturer. Pop the question in the internet.
 
#5 ·
Your comment made me remember I had taken photos of the roof before I tried the DIY patching and subsequent silver coating (which actually happened 6 months after that). I just remembered the entire thing being thick pieces of black material, with no granular coating like I've seen in most bitumen products, and assumed it was a rubber-type. But here are some photos that maybe someone else can identify more easily:
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I don't know if these help to identify it as a roof type that can be more easily repaired than EPDM?
 
#4 ·
Forgot to add. You can also do easy repair with roofing cement (tar). Problem is tar is short term and maybe 5 years in shade. Thin coat of tar, tar mesh, about 1/4" layer of tar? Make it smooth with mineral spirit wet paint brush. I used rubber modified roof cement, tar based. Another problem is tar will make real repairs a mess and make it a must to cut the roofing away instead of trying to remove that coating.
I searched for life of epdm roof and it's 50 years. So easy repairs would make the roof life that much shorter. You got a bad advice about the coating. Internet advice is epdm roof has long life without any coating, maybe at near the end that could add few more years.
 
#6 ·
that is a smooth surface modified roof. Not the best application, but it is fixable. Using any brand of rubberized cement and either cotton or fiberglass mesh in a three or five course application, dress up anything you think looks like it could be an issue. be sure to cover 3" min in each direction, 1/8" to 1/4" thick per layer, heavy application of cement is not good. Be sure to fully impregnate the mesh each layer, prior to applying cement, no wrinkles or air pockets/dry felts.
After cement has cured / six months
apply Non fibered silver flake alumination in two applications. Budget a rate of 1.5 gallons per 100 square feet/ 0.75 gal per 100 SF per application

Silver can stop leaks, but you must always think of silver as UV protection only. Do not kid yourself into thinking it is a waterproofing layer of protection. Wait for it to burn off approx. 40% prior to applying another layer. maybe 5-7 years later. If you are lucky it will last long enough to do it one more time before needing to replace the roof again.

Since it was a pretty poor install, do not hold your breathe.

Check it every spring & fall and dress it up as required. Silver each patch area as required.
 
#9 ·
good question.
with rubberized cement, you get what you pay for in quality. High grade cement will be self priming. If you already have cheap cement, than investing in asphalt primer is recommended. (do not use spray asphalt primer, that is for penetration flashing only) brush or roll on primer heavy enough it is not transparent. it will flash off faster than you think, when tacky to the touch, proceed with repair application.