IMHO you screwed up. Should have removed the old tile first. For one thing … the receptacles are slightly recessed. Even with leaving the old tile in place you should have used a schluter strip to finish the ends. Now I would use paint to try to hide the globs of thinset, and leave the tile exposed.

 

What if I still used the schluter but cut away the long schluter edge backing that goes under the tile? Use adhesive to attach to the edge of the tile?
?

 

Ya, smoothing it up some and paint is about the only fix at this point.

 

Remove the existing grout & make a template to form the desired shape & apply new grout use a colored grout or paint it.

 

Always a learning experience. Thanks for the input

 

At this point I think I'd seriously consider just casing out that opening.

 

Can you explain casing out? I'm a DIY newbie

Thanks

 

Much like you see windows and doors. A flat piece of 1x or plywood attached where we currently see that taupe/mocha color would be wrapped around the corner with the casing. Like I've done here with this opening, but much narrower casing in your situation.

 

That looks like a viable option. Thank you

 

How wide is the adjacent wall after the 90 degree turn?

What about finishing that wall with say different complimentary tiles with bullnose tiles?

Or the same tiles and now you can use a schluter edge on the far edge of that wall.

I wouldn't trim the schluter edging because once you bump into it it will come apart if not anchored it as designed.

Or just cut a piece of hardwood (or two or three depends on width) to cover that 90 wall. Have the wood come out flush with the tiles and caulk the joint on one side, and the other side flush with drywall, can even route the edges to make a nice transition.

 

It's only about1/2 an inch wide. I will look and see if there's a bullnose tile that would match or fit also. Thanks

 

I would gently sand the thinset smooth, and call it a day.

Or paint it the wall color (after it's smooth).

 

I would gently sand the thinset smooth, and call it a day.

Or paint it the wall color (after it's smooth).

It's grout on the side, not thinset, is sanding possible?

 

I would take an angle grinder with a flap disc to shave it, I doubt regular sanding will do anything to grout.

 

That would make a terrible mess. Thinset and grout are easily worked by hand.

Your idea of a bullnose tile on the sidewall is good.

 

The carbide grit on this grout saw removed hard thinset and grout very easily.

 

Thanks for all your suggestions

 

Yikes, now you have two layers of tile to demolish to do this the right way.

 

Not happening

 

Definitely find a glass tile to use as a bullnose. I have seen a glass tile that is about 5/8" x 4". It is attached to a 12x12" mesh but you could easily pull it off and use as bullnose to cover the edge. It will look good.

 

Seems like I might be able to do this, I don't have the tools or skills to grind things down. Do you have a link to a ball nose tile you think might look good?

 

You may be able to cut your current tile into about 1" wide strips and grind the edges to make a bullnose. (This might be dangerous if you don't have right tools.)
If you can’t grind it yourself you might have to go to a glass shop. They often smooth the edges of items they create such as glass table tops. I think they may call it satin edge.

 

Imo, grout and/or paint will never look good.
Casing might look ok.

 

Don't sweat mistakes! Turn them into something enjoyable!

A line of ceramic listello or matita that you like might look pretty cool. If one the exact width can't be found, perhaps put narrow cut strips of your tile against the wall and the listello on the outer edge to flush it up to the vertical.

The listello could be contrasting, complimentary or even colored glass. You can get really creative with different colors, patterns and even materials.

Or- Have a local pottery school make and glaze something of your design to fit.

And, in the olden days (like as far back as couple thousand of years ago) mosaics were often framed with hammered lead caps. You can use copper sheet, silver bearing tin sheet, lead free came or other safe material and have a fun DIY project.

Let your mind go free and you'll think of something to do that only you guys have!

Paul

PS: Funny listello story (at least funny to me):
I was tiling at my parents' home and asked my Made In Italy mother who passed by, to please hand me one of the matita. I was puzzled when she left. She came back a minute later and handed me a pencil. The literal translation of matita! Guess I should have asked for a listello. (Translates to "strip" in Italian. Who knows what I'd have been handed.)

 

Don't sweat mistakes! Turn them into something enjoyable!

A line of ceramic listello or matita that you like might look pretty cool. If one the exact width can't be found, perhaps put narrow cut strips of your tile against the wall and the listello on the outer edge to flush it up to the vertical.

The listello could be contrasting, complimentary or even colored glass. You can get really creative with different colors, patterns and even materials.

Or- Have a local pottery school make and glaze something of your design to fit.

And, in the olden days (like as far back as couple thousand of years ago) mosaics were often framed with hammered lead caps. You can use copper sheet, silver bearing tin sheet, lead free came or other safe material and have a fun DIY project.

Let your mind go free and you'll think of something to do that only you guys have!

Paul

PS: Funny listello story (at least funny to me):
I was tiling at my parents' home and asked my Made In Italy mother who passed by, to please hand me one of the matita. I was puzzled when she left. She came back a minute later and handed me a pencil. The literal translation of matita! Guess I should have asked for a listello. (Translates to "strip" in Italian. Who knows what I'd have been handed.)

Great story Paul and thank you for the suggestion

 

Take a picture of your installation and edge and samples of your tile to a store maybe like Floor and Decor and others. The people who work there are usually talented and know their stock. They can help you.

 

We had a weird situation by our tub where there was not enough room to put a Schluter strip all the way down. So it fit well all the way down to the top of the tub, but then there was only like less than an inch of wall next to the front apron of the tub to attach the Schluter strip. I cut off most of the backing with an angle grinder, leaving just enough to put construction adhesive on the back and then filled in the front with grout. Looks good and seems to be holding up fine.

 

Maybe You'd Like This Look:
Perhaps a local glass shop would be willing to order (or cut) you some glass quarter round. It comes up to 10 feet long and is shaped like wood toe molding, but is glass.

It comes in many colors, widths (and heights if you don't want equal length flat sides). You can also get half-round. Frame the area, or just cover the problem side.

Gently cut it a tiny bit long with the wet saw. Using very wet emery cloth, polish and bevel the cut end on the last piece where that end is exposed. Install them with white mortar if the glass is clear or translucent.

Paul
PS: Tacky-Cool: Install a strip of LED light to cover the exposed mortar edge. Start a new trend!

 

Cut out the excess and case it with backband. However, you’d most likely need a table saw to trim it down to the right depth.

 

A 1x is a 3/4" thick piece of dimensional lumber in varying widths. 3 1/2" would be a 1x4.

 

You can use whatever size combinations fits your needs or limitations. The pieces I used just happened to be handy and fit what I needed. This covered the rough opening I created when I removed a non-load bearing wall.