I would cheat the one that is closer to the old wall and get the distance between them.
This is more about security for the door than anchoring the wall.

 

I would add Construction adhesive to neil's remedy, just to do it.


ED


You'd think by now that I would remember how to spell Nealtw.

Make that PL construction Adhesive.

 

I would add Construction adhesive to neil's remedy, just to do it.


ED

Sill gasket???:wink2:

 

I think you can fudge where code conflicts with existing situation. Also smaller means not as essential to the structural integrity. Connecting the new wall to the old is also done with the wall studs as well. Don't just depend on the connection to the foundation, as with the sill plate. You don't want the sill to somehow move, so just use 2 maybe 4-5" apart? Don't crank down on the small piece of lumber since it could split.

 

I'd also choose a piece of PT that has some nice knots, they do not split easily.

Bud

 

I'd suggest a standard anchor and a Simpson A-34 angle bracket attached with structural screws to the existing wall structure.

That will ensure the short sill section will be a very secure section.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-18-Gauge-Framing-Angle-A34/100375340

 

Impossibiities or conflicts do sometimes arise with codes......

We had a very similar issue in Cali..... our thought was that code wanted 3.5 (4" in our case as code is 7 x anchor diameter with 5/8 J's) to prevent end splitting, but also wanted sill secure.

We were new to the inspector, so we actually ran down to the office.... asked if we could just go 2" from the ends.... said sure.

There is nothing magical about 7xbolt diameter from the end.... and I think if you have logic applied in those instances , as in the above posts suggestions, an inspector would have no problem with the solution.

With all the earthquake considerations and fastening issues in Cali, we ran into other minor framing conflicts also..... often adding some simpson A-35s or other to compensate.

 

Thanks. I'll go with HenryMac's suggestion on the plans and see what the city says. Can I put a stud on top of the corner bracket?

 

Use 1-1/2" Simpson Structural Screws... that'll be hell-for-stout.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...al-Hex-Flange-Hex-Head-Structural-Connector-Screw-100-Pack-SD9112R100/202071152

 

Drill and install two redheads and bolt it down. Yes, you can put them close to each other...

 

HenryMac, in your sketch, wouldn't I have a stud (or maybe even a double stud) where you show the angle bracket? FYI, this is butting the end of a new exterior 2x6 stud wall to what is currently the corner of an existing exterior wall, extending the wall. i.e., butting end-to-end, not making a "T" or "L".

I am wondering if I need a double stud at the end of the new where new meets meets old.

 

Yes treat it like an entire new wall, which it is.

ED

 

For the minimal cost of an extra stud.. Yes, I agree with de-nagorg. :wink2: